seriallink
03-22-2013, 05:01 PM
#21
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Join Date: Mar 2013
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I ended up paying $125 for it. To me, it was worth it cause I need my car back on the road and tuned. While I think thats double of the replica unit here, I hadnt heard back in a few days, and saw the history of the thread.
To me it worth the effort to chase down, and didnt have the $700+ for the MSPNP.
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03-22-2013, 05:06 PM
#22
Ok, just talked to TurboRoach.
Who would be interested in a group buy for a Link to micro-usb adapter? We can crack out as many as necessary, delivery would be <3 weeks from closing of the group buy.
Jeff
Edit: Holy ****, 125 bucks, ours will be much cheaper than that.......And it'll be usb....
Who would be interested in a group buy for a Link to micro-usb adapter? We can crack out as many as necessary, delivery would be <3 weeks from closing of the group buy.
Jeff
Edit: Holy ****, 125 bucks, ours will be much cheaper than that.......And it'll be usb....
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07-21-2014, 01:35 AM
#33
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Join Date: Jul 2014
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Just signed up today, and look, you're posting exactly what I need. I need an adapter. I've got access to EE's and board shops. If you've got a BOM and layout/instructions. Or what would you want cost wise for one? (I'm an ME, so not the best with boards, but I can solder somethings)
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07-22-2014, 08:56 PM
#36
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Join Date: Jun 2010
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Link to USB
DIY Link to USB cable.
Disclaimer: This is a write up of how I got this to work, It may not work for everyone and there maybe other chipsets that work with this but I can confirm these products work.
What you need:
A USB to Serial adapter using the Chipset PL2303HXA like this one: A little note the adapter does not look likes the image on amazon.
Some male to male DuPont cables I bought these
2 1n4148 diodes, you can get a pack of ten at RadioShack for &1.99
A soldering iron, some 18-22 gauge butt connectors (the red ones), and some wire crimpers/strippers and if you are so inclined some 1/8" and 3/16” shrink wrap also can be bought at RadioShack.
1) Take two of the Dupont Cables, its best if they are the same color. Take both cables and cut them approximately in half make sure that at least two of the 4 segments are the same length. Strip the wires about an inch from the end on three of the segments you just created. Take one stripped end and crimp it into one of the butt connectors. I found that I had to double the copper wire over itself in order to get it thick enough to be crimped correctly. Now take two segments that are the exact same size and twist their copper ends together and crimp on the other side of the butt connector. You should now have a 1 male to 2 male connector. This is your grounding cable. I shrink wrap the connection for extra security.
2) For the cable that connects to the transmitted (green) lead take three cables and cut them in half. On all wire ends strip approximately and inch of shielding away. Trim the wire ends of the diode so that there is approximately ¾” of wire on either side. Solder a copper wire segment to each end, polarity does not matter at this point we will get there. I found it best to wrap the copper wire around as much of the diode leg as possible. Repeat for the other diode. You should now have two male to male dupont cables with a diode spliced in. I put a bit of shrink-wrap over the diode connections to ensure they didn’t short. Now cut off the male end furthest away from the black line on the diode. Strip the shielding about an inch from the end. Take the wire that does not have a diode and strip the shielding about an inch from the end. Twist the three copper wires together and crimp using a butt connector. Use the last half cable strip the end and crimp it to the other end of the butt conector. You should now have a 1 male to three male cable with two of the cables having diodes and a singular straight through connection.
3) Now that the cable is made, on your data logging computer go to Products and download and install the driver and check to make sure the device is recognized by windows under hardware manager under control panel-System-Device Manager (or something like that) and take note of the Com port because you will need it for DLL and RTLink.
4) Plug the your Ground wires in the black connector on the USB cable, Plug your now 3 pronged Transmitted cable into the Green Cable on the USB and your received into the White cable.
5) Connect the male pins to the their appropriate connections on the ribbon cable as shown in the diagram and you are all set. It doesn’t matter which diode wire goes in which diode marked socket on the ribbon cable.
Total cost was about $15 but I now have way to many dupont cables and diodes.
Here is a link to the album of photos i took while making the connector imgur: the simple image sharer
If you have any questions feel free to PM me or ask a question here.
Disclaimer: This is a write up of how I got this to work, It may not work for everyone and there maybe other chipsets that work with this but I can confirm these products work.
What you need:
A USB to Serial adapter using the Chipset PL2303HXA like this one: A little note the adapter does not look likes the image on amazon.
Some male to male DuPont cables I bought these
2 1n4148 diodes, you can get a pack of ten at RadioShack for &1.99
A soldering iron, some 18-22 gauge butt connectors (the red ones), and some wire crimpers/strippers and if you are so inclined some 1/8" and 3/16” shrink wrap also can be bought at RadioShack.
1) Take two of the Dupont Cables, its best if they are the same color. Take both cables and cut them approximately in half make sure that at least two of the 4 segments are the same length. Strip the wires about an inch from the end on three of the segments you just created. Take one stripped end and crimp it into one of the butt connectors. I found that I had to double the copper wire over itself in order to get it thick enough to be crimped correctly. Now take two segments that are the exact same size and twist their copper ends together and crimp on the other side of the butt connector. You should now have a 1 male to 2 male connector. This is your grounding cable. I shrink wrap the connection for extra security.
2) For the cable that connects to the transmitted (green) lead take three cables and cut them in half. On all wire ends strip approximately and inch of shielding away. Trim the wire ends of the diode so that there is approximately ¾” of wire on either side. Solder a copper wire segment to each end, polarity does not matter at this point we will get there. I found it best to wrap the copper wire around as much of the diode leg as possible. Repeat for the other diode. You should now have two male to male dupont cables with a diode spliced in. I put a bit of shrink-wrap over the diode connections to ensure they didn’t short. Now cut off the male end furthest away from the black line on the diode. Strip the shielding about an inch from the end. Take the wire that does not have a diode and strip the shielding about an inch from the end. Twist the three copper wires together and crimp using a butt connector. Use the last half cable strip the end and crimp it to the other end of the butt conector. You should now have a 1 male to three male cable with two of the cables having diodes and a singular straight through connection.
3) Now that the cable is made, on your data logging computer go to Products and download and install the driver and check to make sure the device is recognized by windows under hardware manager under control panel-System-Device Manager (or something like that) and take note of the Com port because you will need it for DLL and RTLink.
4) Plug the your Ground wires in the black connector on the USB cable, Plug your now 3 pronged Transmitted cable into the Green Cable on the USB and your received into the White cable.
5) Connect the male pins to the their appropriate connections on the ribbon cable as shown in the diagram and you are all set. It doesn’t matter which diode wire goes in which diode marked socket on the ribbon cable.
Total cost was about $15 but I now have way to many dupont cables and diodes.
Here is a link to the album of photos i took while making the connector imgur: the simple image sharer
If you have any questions feel free to PM me or ask a question here.
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07-23-2014, 12:18 AM
#37
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Join Date: Jul 2014
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So it looks like this might be up my alley? Looks like the same chipset and comes with extra wires:
Can you just give some background as to why the diodes are needed? Basically, why are the modifications necessary to communicate to the link vs. just using the USB adapter as is?
No issues with datalogging or programming with this setup?
Thanks! Will look at what chip options I have, probably order a little protoboard to put this all on since those are pretty cheap as well.
Can you just give some background as to why the diodes are needed? Basically, why are the modifications necessary to communicate to the link vs. just using the USB adapter as is?
No issues with datalogging or programming with this setup?
Thanks! Will look at what chip options I have, probably order a little protoboard to put this all on since those are pretty cheap as well.
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07-23-2014, 12:48 AM
#38
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Join Date: Jul 2014
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Actually, it looks like what you did was take a USB to 232 adapter and added the electronics present on the link adapter. I'm looking at my saved images, and I can see where you broke out the Tx signal.
Only remaining question is, any reason in particular to go with the 2303HX chipset over others available?
Only remaining question is, any reason in particular to go with the 2303HX chipset over others available?
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07-23-2014, 12:11 PM
#39
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 9
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That picture of the serial link board and a wiring diagram posted by TurboRoach a few years ago is how i put it together.
With regards to the chipset I went with it because it had pretty good documentation, and it was cheap. I'm sure other chipsets would work but I posted that chipset because i can confirm that it works.
My goal was to make it as cheaply as possible but to retain functionality. I have not had any issues
With regards to the chipset I went with it because it had pretty good documentation, and it was cheap. I'm sure other chipsets would work but I posted that chipset because i can confirm that it works.
My goal was to make it as cheaply as possible but to retain functionality. I have not had any issues
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11-20-2014, 10:42 AM
#40
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 3
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Has anyone been able to get this DIY to work with the HC-06 bluetooth module?
I have hooked up the same connector described in the DIY to the HC-06 module I have and so far I can receive data but I cannot send anything...
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