Wire wideband to LINK without getting rid of EGR?
#1
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Wire wideband to LINK without getting rid of EGR?
Before we start. Yes I know the LINK is archaic, yes I know MS is better. Whatever. I'm working with what I have in the here and now.
Anyway, onto my question. I have a 1995 1.8l. In the installation manual, it says if I want to run a wideband to the ECU, I have to hook up the signal wire to the wire the EGR uses, which I'm assuming disables the EGR. I do not wish to do this. Is there any other way of hooking up my AEM Wideband? I completely understand I'm working with old tech, but any advice would be helpful. Eventually I will get a MS, but like I said, working with what I got
Another question would be, would it just be easier tuning wise to forgo hooking up a wideband to the ECU and just let the ECU use the factory sensor?(and monitor my AFR with the wideband gauge, of course) I am NOT going to use the 'auto tune' feature on the ECU. I don't trust it.
Anyway, onto my question. I have a 1995 1.8l. In the installation manual, it says if I want to run a wideband to the ECU, I have to hook up the signal wire to the wire the EGR uses, which I'm assuming disables the EGR. I do not wish to do this. Is there any other way of hooking up my AEM Wideband? I completely understand I'm working with old tech, but any advice would be helpful. Eventually I will get a MS, but like I said, working with what I got
Another question would be, would it just be easier tuning wise to forgo hooking up a wideband to the ECU and just let the ECU use the factory sensor?(and monitor my AFR with the wideband gauge, of course) I am NOT going to use the 'auto tune' feature on the ECU. I don't trust it.
#2
I assume you want to keep it for smog purposes? How would the smog ref be able to tell your EGR is disabled? EGR is of no value for performance or reliability. I deleted mine years ago.
Without a wideband hooked up to the ECU, you're just giving up the dubious ability to autotune boosted rows. If you have another way to log the wideband output and link it up to the RPM and boost at that time (like through an AEM Failsafe) you could do all your tuning without the Link being involved. You just adjust fuel cells as if you were dyno tuning.
Without a wideband hooked up to the ECU, you're just giving up the dubious ability to autotune boosted rows. If you have another way to log the wideband output and link it up to the RPM and boost at that time (like through an AEM Failsafe) you could do all your tuning without the Link being involved. You just adjust fuel cells as if you were dyno tuning.
#3
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I assume you want to keep it for smog purposes? How would the smog ref be able to tell your EGR is disabled? EGR is of no value for performance or reliability. I deleted mine years ago.
Without a wideband hooked up to the ECU, you're just giving up the dubious ability to autotune boosted rows. If you have another way to log the wideband output and link it up to the RPM and boost at that time (like through an AEM Failsafe) you could do all your tuning without the Link being involved. You just adjust fuel cells as if you were dyno tuning.
Without a wideband hooked up to the ECU, you're just giving up the dubious ability to autotune boosted rows. If you have another way to log the wideband output and link it up to the RPM and boost at that time (like through an AEM Failsafe) you could do all your tuning without the Link being involved. You just adjust fuel cells as if you were dyno tuning.
#4
Don't delete, just unplug. In case it wasn't obvious from my post, Link can't really do much with the wideband except autotune the boosted rows. If your wideband has logging you can just do a pull at 6/12/18psi, see the afr vs rpm and adjust the fuel for that row in the edit screen. The defaults are scary conservative. Back in I think 2002, I picked up nearly 30 whp at 12 psi just from leaning out the defaults and adding a couple degrees timing. This was like 3 or 4 dyno pulls with no wideband yet.
#5
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Don't delete, just unplug. In case it wasn't obvious from my post, Link can't really do much with the wideband except autotune the boosted rows. If your wideband has logging you can just do a pull at 6/12/18psi, see the afr vs rpm and adjust the fuel for that row in the edit screen. The defaults are scary conservative. Back in I think 2002, I picked up nearly 30 whp at 12 psi just from leaning out the defaults and adding a couple degrees timing. This was like 3 or 4 dyno pulls with no wideband yet.
The one thing I'm trying to figure out is boosting with stock injectors (until I can afford bigger one). I see an option for 'supercharger with big injectors' but nothing about boosting with stock ones. It's not installed in the car yet, but I'll figure it out.
#6
There isn't anything about boost and stock injectors because it's a horrible idea. Stock injectors will support low single digits boost. They're tiny. You will blow your engine up taking short cuts like this.
Get injectors and tune vacuum with them before you go for boost. Adding a turbo is relatively easy if you already have the ECU and injectors in and ready.
Get injectors and tune vacuum with them before you go for boost. Adding a turbo is relatively easy if you already have the ECU and injectors in and ready.
#7
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There isn't anything about boost and stock injectors because it's a horrible idea. Stock injectors will support low single digits boost. They're tiny. You will blow your engine up taking short cuts like this.
Get injectors and tune vacuum with them before you go for boost. Adding a turbo is relatively easy if you already have the ECU and injectors in and ready.
Get injectors and tune vacuum with them before you go for boost. Adding a turbo is relatively easy if you already have the ECU and injectors in and ready.
I recently bought an MP62 supercharger kit off of a forum member here. I'm going to do 'incrimental' upgrades until I get it where I want it. I also have to get a new clutch, but considering the one I have has only 25k miles on it, I don't want to pull it yet. So I have to keep HP numbers below the limit of the stock clutch, and at those numbers, the stockers will work just fine. If I absolutely cannot tune with stock injectors, I guess I won't have a choice.
#8
Well you can tune with stock injectors but you'll max them out really quick. I would think it would be less hassle to find injectors than hunt around for a pulley big enough to tide you over.
I started my turbo setup with rx7 injectors for 50 bucks. There are tons of cheap junkyard options that are better than stock injectors.
And even brand new big injectors are cheaper than rebuilds.
Also, a new clutch is only a few hundred bucks. From a guy who did it on the cheap repeatedly, I'm telling you it's better to be patient.
I started my turbo setup with rx7 injectors for 50 bucks. There are tons of cheap junkyard options that are better than stock injectors.
And even brand new big injectors are cheaper than rebuilds.
Also, a new clutch is only a few hundred bucks. From a guy who did it on the cheap repeatedly, I'm telling you it's better to be patient.
#9
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Well you can tune with stock injectors but you'll max them out really quick. I would think it would be less hassle to find injectors than hunt around for a pulley big enough to tide you over.
I started my turbo setup with rx7 injectors for 50 bucks. There are tons of cheap junkyard options that are better than stock injectors.
And even brand new big injectors are cheaper than rebuilds.
Also, a new clutch is only a few hundred bucks. From a guy who did it on the cheap repeatedly, I'm telling you it's better to be patient.
I started my turbo setup with rx7 injectors for 50 bucks. There are tons of cheap junkyard options that are better than stock injectors.
And even brand new big injectors are cheaper than rebuilds.
Also, a new clutch is only a few hundred bucks. From a guy who did it on the cheap repeatedly, I'm telling you it's better to be patient.