Anyone selling a shell? Miata totaled..
 

Well, today sucks.

Going to work, minding my own business at a red light. One car behind me. Girl smashes into the guy behind me, sends his car into mine. Drivers involved are OK.

Here's the gore:
album:
http://imgur.com/a/bWQPM

Attachment 235104

Who even let her out of the kitchen?! :vash::vash::vash:

Is this an epidemic? Seriously.

Lame. Very lame.

All of the pain, none of the responsibility. That's gotta suck.

Really really sucks. Everything turbo/drivetrain related is intact. Artech exhaust is bent, but might be salvageable. I'l have to get a good look underneath.

Waiting for a callback from insurance company in regards to the claim. Obviously it's totaled, though.

Just make sure to keep in in your own garage/driveway, and always buy it back. This seems to be the method making the most money.

Part out is a lot of work, but worth it in the end. Or use the insurance money to buy another and swap over the go-fast bits.

Friend's insurance offered him $10k for his MSM, he negotiated $9k and the car. An NA should only take ~$500-750 off your insurance company's offer.

The main issue is going to be the fact that I don't have collision. My car was an R-title so I never really was concerned with it. I have to work through the insurance of the at-fault party and make a claim.

That's not an issue for you at all since it's not your fault, and all the same advice still applies, you'll just be working with their company instead of your own.

I wish someone would total my Miata. :(

Understood, and hopefully it's pretty painless. I'm just anticipating a headache I guess.

Which insurance company are you dealing with? (what was the girl's company?)

State Farm. Both the girl and the dude in the middle have state farm actually.

So, a question for anyone who's been in this situation before. Should I be indexing all the parts and modifications made to the car? Will this have any effect on the claim value?

I'm reading that it's unlikely any parts will be covered at all, and that the car will be valued in OEM spec.

So I'll give you my short story:

In high school I had a shitbox 240sx with a sr20 and about 10k total into mods. The car had rust, 220k miles, and had been in a previous accident so I had a spray painted front clip on the car. I was T Boned by another 16 yr old. She was at fault.

My father and I worked with her insurance company and I handed the agent records for all the parts on my car. I also printed out multiple FS adds from cars.com and forums showing cars with similar mods going for 5-6k.

The agent told me they would normally cover 50-75% of the cost for modified parts that were damaged, but none of my parts were really damaged so I shouldn't hope for much. I did tell her I planned on buying the car back from insurance.

After some back and forth with the agent and her supervisor they ended up giving us almost $2000 over the HIGHEST blue book value (aka 2k over a low milage mint car) AND they gave us the car for free so I got to keep my parts. I walked away with roughly 5k in cash & a running 240sx with all my parts. $1500 for a new shell and a weekends worth of work and I was back up and running.

FYI I think they had progressive

Summary:
If the parts were not damaged and you are keeping the car, They likely wont do jack shit for you. . . But try to prove the true value of the car at the time of the accident and push them a bit.

EDIT... Aren't part outs fun https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.n...123d0f13d91158

Hope everything goes smoothly, I wouldn't want to be forced to do the work but what others have said is right; if you can get paid out and buy it back, you will come out ahead. I am nowhere near you but I have a low mile MSM shell with no top... Not very helpful I know, just throwing it out there.

You'll get some bump for parts, probably more since you were not at fault. List all the parts and values and fight for the value. When you've had enough negotiating then request buyback value and be done.

So, State Farm offered $5,705 including me buying the car back. I think that's pretty reasonable considering the car was an R-title already. I paid ~3,500 for the car two years ago.

I didn't even get to send them my receipts, that's their offer based on the condition the adjuster valued it at (adjuster clearly a car guy, seemed like he appreciated the work done).

I'll probably take the offer so I don't have to deal with anymore BS. What's everyone think?

Grab it and don't look back.

Great, buy the car back and build an exocet

Depends, would going for another pass be worth $200 to you? I bet you could get a $200 bump but if you're ready to be done then take it and run.