2) How good do people say it is? The K20Zx in my '06 Si race car has like 6000 miles, all on track. All it's ever done is get completely thrashed. We change the oil once a season, regular Mobil 5w30. Stock radiator, heck stock everything. Trans gets completely thrashed, never had an issue. Stock LSD gets abused, no issue. 8000+ rpm shifts all day, every day, and it still makes good power.

3) And they are? I would say the only drawback to the K series is the price. 190whp with catback and re-tune, stock everything else, with stock reliability. 200+ whp is stupid easy. K24/K20 can make 270 whp with I/H/E + cams and still have stinking good reliability (we had one last 2 and a half 25 hour races...two and a half). How much is a GSR motor, and then the parts to make 200whp reliably? I would argue NA versus NA. If boosted than yea, D series is much, much cheaper and can make good power stupid easy.

One day I will build a K24/K20 Miata with 270whp NA just to piss you off...

Seriously? It's his daily driver.

Obviously this is a high dollar "baller" build, right? This is purpose built car like 95% of the cars on this site.

I agree. My B6 is much better.

Sure, lots of engines that make less torque. Doesn't fit?? What are you talking about? This car has been his daily for years. It was built right and does it's job. Are you seriously getting upset over this?
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1348532011

Go for it. I'll call you homo for using a K when an F is better in every way.

I over rev'ed my BP to 14,000 rpm without hurting it. Does that mean its the best engine ever?

As for other civic swaps, there is a massive list of engines I'd use before a K. I'd even rather have a little B16. For the price of putting a K n our car and being able to tune it yo cold be making way more power with another nine and some boost.
I can't tell our ow many times I've seen stock bottom end turbo D series lay the rape on K series.

I honestly have no idea what any of this means.

I still don't understand why you are upset. This isn't a "baller" build. He wanted a K24, so he built a K24. Simple as that. He wanted torque and a solid, reliable motor. It's done all these things.

90% of the work was done in his gravel driveway. The engine was assembled by him and his friends after trading parts and labor for stuff he needed. Don't write everyone off as a "baller checkbook racer" who wants attention and to impress people. Have you seen the car?? Haha.

lol he just mad.

I honestly don't know the justification either. FTB usually knows what he's talking about, and I'm not biased at all since I'll never have a "project" FWD hawnduhh, but his hatred for the K series is just silly and despite having read like 5+ of his "justifications" of why they suck, I don't find any truth in any of them.

I guess the one about them costing more than a B series or D series is true. And more 'spensive to mod.

That's bout it tho

He really is mad :party:

It's obviously not a crappy motor. I was shocked at how well power onset with this car. I was not expecting a useful powerband with actual torque.

I guess the argument against the K is the same between some people using B6's instead of opting for the VVT BP because 95% of turbo miatas don't ever make it above 250whp, which the B6 can make without breaking a sweat just like the VVT.

The top end on this honda is bonkers, and in a body that is about as sleeper as it gets. Viper, I have a feeling this is how you want your new build to pull. Just make sure it stays on the road better.

The video makes it seem like the power is less progressive than you say. Being in that rocket must tell a different story.

When it comes on, there is nothing progressive about it. Maybe it looks smooth on a dyno sheet, but all the 500-800whp hatches around here are literally all over the road when they do pulls.

We make sure there is at least 3 lanes, and that there isn't a car in sight

I aint even mad

btw, deos vtec pop nasty hard?

3rd gear VTAKKK hits like the fist of thor

Technically Vtec can be tuned just like the VICs to be smooth. Run one pull with vtec off, do one pull with vtec on and have the switchover at the cross of hp. You gotta get the extra module that allows you to control the vtec though.

this thread reminds me of my buddy's old EK hatch, d-series, y8 head on boost that was setup for digs. the only roll he'd give people: 1 mph.

lolol not sure if serious.

its called a tune.

whoa, check back after a while and looks like full tilt's vtac kicked in and went full bobracha
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1348594370

.

Is it?

If my goal is to stay N/A and make 270-300 WHP for as cheap as possible than I think the K24 is the way to go.

In my experience it's easier to make 270whp with a K24/K20Z and cheaper.

K24 Accord or CR-V motors can be had for a song, much cheaper than the F20/F22. Sourcing the head obviously is more difficult and more money, but still much easier/cheaper than an F20. Add a knock-off header, cheap intake, Skunk cams and voila, 270whp, damn near stock reliability, all for probably less than you could get a running F20 for.

I guess the only drawback would be revving to say 8200rpm instead of 9000rpm, I'll take the extra 60 ft-lbs of torque...

lolol you do know the vtec switch over is mechanical from the factory right?

Obvious troll is obvious. FTB is just fucking with you ( i think? ). K series is superior in almost every way, especially in availability and cost. Don't feed the trolls :fael:

Still not sure if trolling....

You do realize this mechanical switchover is controlled by the ecu right?
I've had 4 RSX's in the past, all of which were tuned with Hondata K-pro, trust me when I say that I know where this is heading.

that's the crazy part: I don't think he's trolling.
/serious