Wow. :facepalm:

That sucks. I went through all the wiring in my car as well and fixed any bs that was done behind the console by the PO.

Take this time to bond with the car and enjoy it dude. Then once its running good and your out enjoying it, it'll be something you can say you fixed yourself.

Uh yeah. So how's it run now that you fixed them?

C

+1

Please tell my you have another means of transportation....If so, no sweat, just take your time and make things right one step at a time. If you don't, I'm sorry...

haven't swapped them yet, but i know it ran almost as shitty with them in the right order. so idk, im praying that something is just going to magically going to happen and make this all better.

Yep, I DD an 06 4 runner. Luckily I have a few more months till we really get some warm weather and I start itching to drive this car real bad.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4019/...2ac11fbe_b.jpg

:D

Nice shop you get to work in, Broham.

Take your time, I get the feeling that this will work out. FWIW, I kinda liked starting with a built up unit. It becomes like a competition to see if you can work out a better solution than the p.o.

I would suggest you get to work right away on getting a computer to talk to the haltech. I would think any reputable tuner can at least get your tables to a safe zone and make sure your inj duty isn't maxed out.

You've probably already been here, but here's the link to the manual and haltech software: E6K Downloads - Haltech Engine Management Systems . MS-DOS based tuning ftmfw!

More: Windows Vista with haltech DOS software - RX7Club.com

Look into halwin for a possible replacement for the dos based tuning software.

I think what the best solution to pass my parent's safety requirements is to sell the hardtop and use that money to get a fixed back. I need to find one that has the lowest mounts and will let me sit the lowest will the highest headrest. And then I need to possible find a new bar that is a little bit higher that has a harness bar. Suggestions?

Don't feel like looking, what roll bar do you have?
HD has bolt-in harness bars.
How far does your head actually go above the bar? You are probably fine.


Sucks to sell the hard top but I guess if it is just a fun summer car it doesn't really matter.

correct, the miata CAS can only fit in one direction.

About safety: tell them to fuck off, don't you have a hardtop? The car has nothing from the factory, and a roll bar that sits above your head will look stupid and not fit under the hard and/or soft top.

Boss Frog SCCA legal hardtop bar. The top of my head lines up even with the bar or a 1/4 inch above it. The big problem is me hitting my head on it when im not wearing a helmet. Like when I sit in the car I can rest my head on the bar. I don't like my skull cracked. And my bar doesn't have a harness bar.

The issue is if I get in a small wreck, I'm gonna own the back of my head on a metal bar.

A standard hard dog double diagonal hard core will: 1. have a harness bar 2. be the tallest bar that will fit under a SOFT TOP. I guarantee your head will still be at or above the bar with a stock seat, foamectomied or not, at your height. Ultrashield is a popular seat, get one of these or similar and bolt it to the floor, with a hard dog bar, and you will be as safe as possible for a Miata on the street. The nice closed cell foam covers for the hd bar will add some level of mind-comfort in case of cranium impact.

If you are thinking about the ultrashield seat, sit in one or measure your torso height for clearance of the harness holes. You can get the holes custom placed for your torso length, in case they don't fit you in their stock location.

Any hard top bar is going to be lower and probably further back than a bar made for soft top use. I have both from hard dog, it's how it works.

At this point I feel like:

safety>hardtop

I think my current bar is the only way to keep the hardtop, and unless I can go down 2 inches from a seat, I need to get a different bar. And the hardtop is my source of $ for the seat anyway.

eh. honestly, hitting just the seat back on impact hurts like hell in iteself. I don't see you being happy with any roll bar solution for a miata.

I think I just need to get a seat that will bolt to the floor and that has a high back to it to protect my head.

Most of the roll bars are probably all within a inch or so in height. Unless you have something custom made. Then you'll run into issues with softtop and hardtop fitment.

Miata with hardtop > miata without hardtop.

Its safer, looks better, keeps the heat in and the rain out better, etc.

If your worried about hitting your head on the rollbar, just pad it up.

You can get in a wreck in any model car. The miata is maybe a tad more unsafe than most, but its not a death trap by any means. The car is built to avoid accidents, not get in them. Hell, I even avoided getting side swiped by some douche last night when I was out with the gf shopping. You just have to be aware. They are pretty small cars, so people have a hard time seeing us sometimes. lol

http://naturephotography.fredhurteau...LegPadding.jpg

cheap solution? haha

Alright so I know I am getting a fixed back and harnesses. That means I would need a harness bar. So I should probably just get a taller bar while I'm at it that has a harness bar. Basically I can't move this car till I make my head safe in it. And padding is not the proper solution. And I don't DD it and it's garaged so idk why I realy need a hardtop. Especially since I only am gonna be driving it on nice days

:sniff sniff:

I smell pussy.

Unless you're confident that you'll only drive it on sunny days and never get caught in a rainstorm, then any rollbar you find (or have made) that is significantly taller than the standard fare will not only not fit under a hardtop, it also won't fit under the soft top.

If that's what you want, though, go for it. Taking the soft top and frame out will off set some of the weight gain from the roll bar.

If you get an aluminum seat (Ultrashield, Kirkey) make sure you install a seat back brace attached to the harness bar - aluminum seats will bend/fold in hard impacts so having the mid/top area of the back bolted will keep your head in the right spot. If I were you I would go for a used Sparco bucket and if you need more headroom you could bolt the seats to the floor using aluminum or steel L brackets. Ditching the stock sliders and cutting the rear seat mounts off the floor will give you another 2.5+ inches of headroom...

Good luck with the wiring and other issues - sounds like the PO bent you over and had his way with you.

hey i kno that car u got it from one of my friends (rasco) i kno all about that car hit me up im in the richmond mond area too and i knoi some ppl who can might hell u with tuning the car email me at motorcrossxl@aol.com and ill get ur start on all the spec for that car

HOLY SHIT!!! YOU WIN THE MAGNA GRAMMAR AWARD ON YOUR FIRST POST!


Let me help others out:

I like my head intact lol.

So what you are saying is the difference in roll bar height from a soft top to a hard top is negligible? Regardless I need a different bar so I can have a harness bar.

I think I'm looking into getting a bride, recaro, sparco, racetech, cobra. Something along those lines. And what is the process of mounting the seat as low as possible. I don't need sliders because I always need the seat all the way back.

oh lord. do i email haha?

Lmao!!! :magna:

Hey OP wrap the roll bar with foam and quit being a pussy

I say remove the roll bar all together and just use the stock belts. like I said, you're never going to be happy with any roll bar out there. Maybe an ESP rollbar.

http://www.hula.net/%7Eavejoy/rbe17.JPG

guess where the dead guy in this picture below is:

http://www.hula.net/%7Eavejoy/Califormiarbe1.jpg



guess where the driver of this rear ended miata, that resulted in no deaths, who reports hitting head hard on his padded roll bar is:

http://www.revlimiter.net/miata/sharkabonk/back1.jpg

Wtfs?

"i knoi some ppl who can might hell u"

What the fuck? I couldn't write that poorly if I tried. Run on sentence, shitload of misspellings, shit grammar, wow.

Didn't we all start learning basic spelling and grammar in pre-school or at least by 1st grade?

that made me sick. gross. precisely why i'm not taking out and leaving my bar out.

Man up. Go to the hardware store. Spend your pocket change. Buy some foam.

Do you realize how hard you would have to hit your head on that to fuck shit up?

See.....you were ok at first, now your just starting to be aggravating about the fucking thing. Pad it, take it out, or buy another car. :noob:

the driver of this miata, and passenger, both hit their heads hard on rollbar:

http://www.boostedmiata.com/gallery2...serialNumber=2

the driver reported a headache for two days...

30 minutes later he was caught doing this:

http://boostedmiata.com/random/cut_fender.jpg

Holy fuck brain, those almost made me gag.... OP did you you goo through puberty already??? Holy fuck pad the fucking thing and move on to the next real problem!!

WTF!!! how did that happen??

Alrighty, well I still have to get a different bar so I can run harnesses ha. Even if I pad the fuck out of it, I will need one with a harness bar running horizontal. Basically what I need to know is the difference between a hardtop and a soft top bar. Like as in a measurement, to decide whether it is worth it for me to sell the hardtop bar just so I can run a soft top bar?

I'll sell you my bolt in harness bar.

31.5"...goes between the seat belt towers.

I'm moving away from harnesses in my DD.

pm me a price :)

and I'm gonna take some measurements today with me in the car. and ill decide what to do.

HT bars allow use of the side latches so they sit a little further back, softtop only bars are a little more forward and the side latched cannot be used.

you selling the harnesses? pm me lol

You live in richmond...take your bar to a legit race shop and have them weld in a harness bar. Should be relatively cheap.

I'll trade you a sparco pro2000 seat for your hardtop

Is this car going to ever be tracked, or not? IOW, do you have to worry about clearing your head PLUS a helmet, or not? That extra couple inches will factor into what seat you can use.

For example I'm 6'3" and have Kirkey seats bolted right to the floor with the rear humps cut off, the hardtop version of a Hard Dog bar and my helmet clears with room to spare. If I never tracked it and didn't worry about helmet clearance, I might or might not, depending on the seat, be able to run some non-aluminum model with a little more padding that would make it more opulent for DD. The Kirkey covers do have some padding (lots behind the head) and are fine for DD but they start getting uncomfy after about 90 minutes on longer trips unless I use some supplemental cushy for my tushy.

Attachment 200940

If my car never saw the track I'm pretty sure I would be content to have saved the [close to $2K] I've got into all the safety stuff. Rollovers are fairly uncommon, and the Miata is less likely to roll over than most other cars which have higher COG. It's not like a Miata is some exceptionally ruthless deathtrap. BTW there is a reason why anybody who tracks an E36 M3 and values their own life has a full cage. It's because they fold like fucking tin cans when put on their roofs, but obviously you and your parents had no qualms about you driving that around uncaged on the street. Just sayin.

Of course not, is a beamer, is safe.

Seriously, why hasn't anyone brought up to the parents that harnesses and race seats aren't even street legal, much less safe. Were all risking our heads with a roll bar and no helmet. If you're willing to do that in trade for some roll over protection (which many of us do), you need to be willing to risk hitting your head.

What does "my head is level with the bar" mean? Is this the broomstick test?

And as the other guy said, I believe the difference between ht/st bars is the fore/aft position, not height. And you keep saying you're going to have to find a new rollbar. Does anyone know if a non custom bar exists that's much taller than the hard dog bars?

I think the problem is that this guy has access to $$$$, if he was like most of us broke ppl in MT.net he wouldve wrap that bar and move on to the next REAL problem.

I'm going to take this opportunity to say that I think you're an idiot.

The hatred in this thread over some assumed class seperation runs deep.

The guy's here trying to diagnose a slew of problems (ergo doing the work himself)...give him a break.

UPDATE: The car is running better than ever!:laugh:

Well I put the spark plugs in the right order, and what do you know, it starts first try and runs awesome. Advanced the timing a little more than what it was before and it runs better than it did when I picked it up. I'm sooo happy:bowrofl:. Took it for a little spin while the parent's were out and tuned it a little more.;) And now what I think I am going to do is get a harness bar from the guy who is selling his and put in a fixed back bolted to the floor. And keep the hard top. Unless the guy above has a really nice Pro 2000 and wants to trade. YAYY! Thanks for all the help and support in getting me through this issue. You all have been a huge help. Super knowledgeable community here.

There is a small height difference (1.25" according to Bethania Garage) because the hardtop version mounts just far back enough that the curvature of the roof comes into play.

Hmm ok, why is the rollbar such a BIG issue?? Compared to the other things he listed the roll bar would be the last of my worries, shit I would be glad if my car came with one, but whatever I guess Im the idiot for not minding the rollbar.

Because my head pretty much rests on it. Small impact=cracked skull

OMG Pad it!!! and take some filing out of bottom of the seat.

are you advancing timing with the CAS or with the Haltech? I hope the later.

I adjusted it a tiny tiny bit adv. from where I think it was originally. Runs a little better.

If you're going to bother, at least use proper stuff from a race supply shop. It's designed to be used in conjunction with a helmet and will not magically save your bare noggin, but it will be better than bare steel. That $1.49 aidsfail horseshit Homo Depot pipe insulation that one of you geniuses posted earlier will suffice (just barely) to keep a jack handle from denting sheet metal, but it has no business whatsoever going onto a roll bar. Enjoy your coma. :hustler:

Well happy to hear you got it running...

Yep, I've got some of the expensive stuff that is safety rated and what not.

Maybe it is just me, but why don't you just take out the rollbar and call it a day? No rollbar = no hitting your head.

This is pretty much becoming a "I will ask you for advice and hear none of it" thread. Pretty much a waste of all our time.