96DropTop

Just wanted to say hi to every one. I overlooked this section earlier so im here to make things right. Im 20 yrs old and am loving my miata. I would like a bit more HP out of it though. I would be content with 150-200. My big question about the manifold and down pipe have already been addressed. Its going to be a street car but maybe one day i would take it to go auto in. Oh and im from portsmouth ohio

Anything that i might be overlooking to make this a more enjoyable car?

Stein

iTrader: (46)

Welcome 96. Glad to see a bit of info. You can easily hit 150WHP with 5 psi, no intercooler and keep your stock clutch for a little while if you treat it nice so for a true budget build, your goal aligns with the budget.

Pushing past 150 towards 200 will require engine management, a clutch and an intercooler, wideband O2, so you will be looking at an additional $1K for sure, probably $1500.

My build started as a "I need 150WHP and want to do it for $1K. It have a lot of DIY in mine, but I still have about $5K in the car total. That does count suspension, wheels and tires, though. Probably $2500-3000 in the build but $1K was engine management alone. It was the only splurge. Well, that and the injectors and wideband. The rest was pretty much used or DIY fab.

96DropTop

So 150 or so rwhp is doable on a 2k budget. Thats good to know. Any advice and or parts you would recommend to make this easier or cheaper?

Stein

iTrader: (46)

Cheaper or easier, pick one. FOr chaper, you have to scrounge used and fab your own parts. SR20T25 is a good turbo that can be had for $100-200. Buy used DP and manifold. I searched here, read a lot, snatched up components of the for sale section for a couple of months and then built the rest. Otherwise, for about $2K buy the Begi-S kit and install.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

The key here is to OVERBUILD though. Sure you can do 150whp on bandaids and cheap ****, but if you do it RIGHT and don't cut corners you will be able to get more power out of it down the road. Believe me, no one stays at 150whp. NO ONE

Do it once, do it right, be happy. Start off with a begi shanghai and ms. Later add intercooler and injectors. By then you should know the basics and most likely your stock clutch will be gone. You will end up with 200-250whp. Most of the people here do NO ONE stays at 150whp. So don't plan your build around that.

96DropTop

Would i "need" the MS now or could i ride around with the fmu for awhile till the power bug bites again? I'm not trying to be "cheap" on quality, just trying to get quality "cheap" if that makes sense. After all every nickle and dime adds up to something bigger in the long run right?

Stein

iTrader: (46)

This will work.

The only downside is buying a $200 fmu and then later selling it for $80-100used. This can be rectified for buying it used for $80 and then no loss when you upgrade.

96DropTop

I'v done some more reading and decided that it would probably be best to save up a little bit extra to get the s1 kit. I will just forget the IC for now and go with the MSPnP instead. Does this sound like a better idea? I can turn wrenches very easily. I do not however have any prior knowledge with turbo's or how to tune one correctly. I do happen to be a fast learner though.

Some of the post suggested buying corkey bells "Maximum Boost". Will this take care of most of the noob stuff i need to know that the sticky in the DIY section might not clarify?

Canker

when you get the mspnp you need to bring it over so I can check it out . Been wanting to go with that myself but other things to blow money on keep popping up.

Home Page
Not too long before the next autox event. Its only a 2 hour drive and worth it. Always a few miatas there including mine.

Stein

iTrader: (46)

You will be happier in the end going with the MS right away. I have the book, it's good for theory and glad I read it but yes, you can get everything that you need here in the stickies and archives. I did. I knew absolutely nothing about turbos and did everything myself with some online help here.

96DropTop

Now that is something i wanted to know badly lol. Iv done drag once and found it quite boring. The car was fast but something about doing it in a straight line just sucks lol. Thanks for that link. Its only 30 bucks to enter?! Count me in.

96DropTop

I'm too late to register =(. Oh well. The car needs just a bit more maintenance before it should probably be put through that hell.

(edit) Nevermind, was looking at the wrong thing.

96DropTop

Iv never auto-x before, what are some of the rules and what do i need? I can't seem to find anything on the website you gave me.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

With regard to the MegaSquirt, like Stein says, go with it right away. Then save up for the turbo kit.

Install the MS and get all of the bugs worked out by driving it a while and tuning with it. Then when you make the big jump to turbo, you already have the standard drivability part sorted out. All you need to tune then is your boosted cells and not EVERYTHING at once. It should also mean that you are familiar with the tuning program by then and you won't have nearly the headaches with the learning curve. Tune your car naturally aspirated, then add boost later when you are able and ready.

Canker

Their website is a little weak and they are slow to update it but you really don't need anything but a car in decent running condition. I just started and have only been to two so I'm not expert but for your first time I'd just wait till you get to the event to register. That way they can tell you what class you are in and you can introduce yourself as new. You have to have a helmet but they provide loaners at the events which is what I'm using for now. I can't compare it to other groups but most of the people that show up to this one are laid back. Under schedule they give you the dates of the next events, Oct 18th, and the time you need to show up. If you want to sign up for yet another forum
West Virginia Motorsports
There are a few of the higher up local autox guys that help run SWVRSCCA events on there and can help you out better than I can. The biggest and friendliest of them is Jason V.

mazda/nissan

iTrader: (2)

I am saving up for an S1 kit with the 2860 and MSPNP. Do it right the first time, trust me.

Toddcod

iTrader: (8)

You won't stay at 150. But 200 you might.

And bandaids will work for that.

I prefer Used bandaids. You can always get your money back.......... But if you get new..... and decide To go standalone,,, you will lose money on them.

You will want a wbo2 no matter what.

And for a daily driver, I perfer bandaids and 8-9 psi. You use 1.8L injectors and get to keep your gas mileage.

If you go standalone, you are aways tinkering with it "continually" in the winter. (If you have cash for dyno, mabe not)

Bandaids only change values in boost.

If you want 205hp+, go with some sort of electronic's ( MS, Emu, Hydra....etc etc.)

But where people fail is....I what this much HORSEPOWER..... and have never even ridden in a turbo miata.


A 225hp miata from a roll will take a lot of vetts, etc.

I just sold a 400 hp 5.0, that drank gas like it was pouring on the ground. After 65mph, my old yellow miata at 14psi with a 2560, would of ate it up.

If you have the money to do everything at first, do it. But if you are like me, and have to save to buy one or two parts here & there, over a year. And putting some on the credit card.

Screw that.......I wound up selling the car just to pay off the credit card.

Just get some boost..... Used bandaids are fine. Your stock clutch can last, if being forgiving. It will last untill you can save for a clutch.

Put the clutch in, Turn boost to 7

Save for I/c & wbo2. When installed turn to 8-9 psi.

You will have a fast, fun, & dependable daily driver.

IF You decide to go 10psi, you better have bipes (NOT MSD) and larger injectors. (305cc+)

Some run higher boost, but I would not. If you go over 9-10psi...... JUST GO ELECTRONIC! Don't tempt fate. Or kill your gas mileage.

Hope this helps.

At 9 psi, you will just roast the tires in first and second.

You will be happy for a long time. And this route, atleast you have boost until "all the go fast goodies" are bought. (Clutch, IC, saving or building ECU, injectors... etc.)

And you learn the fundamentals of turbo.

The guy I sold the yellow one to, had no Idea what he was doing with the turbo car. I had it max'ed out..... Completed.

HE BLEW IT UP IN 13 DAYS! I worked on putting that car together, sweating, bleeding, and figuring everything out, piece by piece.

He did exactly what I told him not to. He changed the VE MAP. First run, held it to the floor, threw and blew chunks out the side of the motor.
__________________________________________________ ___________________________________
There are more routes than one, to turbo. But Pick which is best for your budget. And take your time.
I personally prefer to go the fastest way to boost...... I don't mind pumping money into a car that is fun.

But I will not wait a year AGAIN, to get boost on a miata.

And I recommend your first kit to be complete, otherwise you spend so much money buying crap trying to make it work. That you wind up spending more than a Flying Miata Kit.

After your first kit. You will know what you are doing. And what you want out of the car. But if done right, your first might be your last....

Personally, I can't stick with one car. Once they are done, I want to change something.

I think Hustler has that problem too. LOL

mazda/nissan

iTrader: (2)

wtf is up with your sentence structure?

Toddcod

iTrader: (8)

You should know I have none buy now.

And as far as I knew. I thought this was a car forum not a english class.

Besides, I had a butt load of chocolate cake before that post. LOL

Toddcod

iTrader: (8)

Hmmm, that was pretty bad, even for me.

I just straightened it out some.