I'm here from the muscle car world
 

Hi,

I'm new to Miata's but I figured I'd say hi and try not to be a Sam. I have a 2013 V6 Mustang (say what you want its a fun car) as a daily which has some work done to make it really fun in a straight line (minor work its still reliable). However, as the mustang is my daily I stayed away from suspension modifications in an effort to keep it comfortable for long drives (I spend a lot of time on the freeway). The goal for my Miata is for it to be a fun car around town. The suspension is where I want it for now (Flyin' Miata Tokico stage 2.5 kit). I just upgraded to the bigger mazda speed brakes so that should hold me for awhile. Next up on the list is some maintenance stuff (radiator, water pump, timing belt, etc), roll bar, clutch & flywheel. Somewhere in between I might pull the plug and do some cheap china charger turbo business. Before you all jump down my throat about how this is an awful idea, I do know that this is not the best way to do this. However, I have access to a bunch of parts (RRFPR, chinachurbo, ignition retard, etc.). Even if I send little bits of cheap china metal through the engine its ok because one of the goals of this car is to build an engine with my father and I have another car to daily. If it comes to that and I do blow something up, I'll build it the right way. I'm located in Michigan. I go from Grand Rapids to Royal Oak a lot and make plenty of stops along the way so if you're from Michigan let me know maybe we can hang out or something.

Here's a pic of my cars and my roommates 2015 5.0
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1463280673

If you will rebuild it the right way after it blows up, why wouldn't you just do that first? If it's the build experience, then pull that engine apart and start doing it. Slowly. One part at a time as the budget permits.

Read around on this site for a couple months. Yes, months, before you buy or decide to do anything. You will see that not a single person around here runs shitty parts like ignition retard devices. Just listen to that name. People who build cars like that belong to that other miata forum.

Use your grey matter.

The issue I'm having is the parts have just fallen into my lap. If i decide to do it with the parts I have I'd put my money into quality parts that id have to buy regardless (manifold, waste gate, etc.). I don't plan on doing anything for power until the rest of the car is safe and where I want it as far as handling is concerned. However, I was also thinking about doing the roll bar at a later date and buying a DIY megasquirt so I can start tuning it N/A.

Sell the parts that fall into your lap.

Don't be a Sam.

Sell those parts and buy a wideband and an assembled megasquirt first.
There are quite a few of us that are nearby.

By the way, what is your cars and coffee kill count?

Let me know if you need someone to drink your beers and give you pointers on how not to tune your car.
Buy a wideband, MS, install and learn to tune first. Add injectors, retune. Add tubo, retune.

:rofl:

Which way will he go? Take the advice from people who win, or slowly maneuver over to mx5 ? They like to rub your pee pee and tell you how big it is, over there.

Here we tell you its small, but eventually rub it anyways.

Cats
Cats for all
:likecat:

It's well over 100.

As for the rest of you I'm leaning towards a MS3. Its an extra few hundred dollars and if I buy that now then the turbo will become my winter project.

BTW is there like a history of Miataturbo.net thread? I wanna know what the obsession with cats is.

When you come back and say you got at least an ms2, I'll give you a cat.

https://www.miataturbo.net/insert-bs...52567/page149/

find me another 150 page thread on cats on another automotive site.
We live for the kitties.

This is like the skinny guy who buys a muscle shirt and doesn't understand what it means when I tell him he got ripped off.

Ok so this weekend I installed my Flying Miata frame rail braces and bought an innovate mtxl wide-band gauge. I'm going to try and install it soon. However, I don't really like the idea of having a bunch of wire taps all over the place for my gauges so I think i'm going to install an accessory fuse box and put it up under the dash on the driver side. I did some research and 10 gauge wire from my 12v source to the fuse box should be sufficient (I think it should be good for 20A correct me if i'm wrong). I also planned on running a relay so the fuse box only has power when the key is turned to accessory. My questions for you guys are where should i get the 12v from? I don't really want to run power into the cabin from the battery (although I will if I have too) and I'm not sure if running it from the 12v that goes into the factory fuse box would cause issues. (Would pulling 12v off the wire that comes from the alternator be a horrible idea?) Next question is where would you guys put the fuse box? Is under the driver side dash the best place? If I do put it there am I going to have any issues passing tech inspection on a racetrack? I plan to run a couple gauges off of this fuse box and maybe a radar detector or something so the load shouldn't be crazy. Can I ground all of these circuits in the same place or is that a bad idea? (I remember reading that a wide-band needs a really good ground). I did a quick search and didn't find anything regarding an accessory fuse box if i'm just an idiot who cant search feel free to point me in the right direction.

It is good to ground your wideband and ecu in the same location. My wideband is powered from the hot lead for the power windows. You can do whatever you like.

We won't give grief for chinese turbos here. We are probably a lot cheaper bastards than you are. But we have learned the minimums for cutting corners with this particular platform over the course of many years. For instance, some cheap turbos will survive but our manifolds must be heavier built than other makes because of vibration. A manifold design that can withstand 500hp on a 9000 rpm Honda or Mitsu will crack into pieces at 200whp on our cars. We've got a forged crankshaft but our rings don't handle detonation well, hence the suggestion that accurate timing and fueling are the best modifications to begin with. A RRFPR and spark retard box will fetch enough bucks to get you close to a Megasquirt purchase if you find the right sucker buyer. And then you can ditch the stock AFM, which is worth a few horses.

If you're running an analog signal between the wideband and ECU then ensuring common signal ground is pretty important. fi you're running a digital signal (CAN bus, serial, whatever) then there's no need to do this. It may in some cases actually be better not to, because that way the square wave heater power in the wideband is better isolated from the other analog signals you're trying to read.

--Ian

For pulling 12v from the fuse box or alternator wire. Just make sure to fuse the 10awg wire as near the source as you can. Always fuse when changing wire sizes, since the fuse is to protect the wire (fuse goes before the wire catches fire!).

I pulled power from the ignition switched line for the radio. Worked fine. Had to put a filter on the ground/power of my AEM UEGO since the PWM heater made too much noise for other things in the car.

I bought an MS2 where is my cat.

You now have a kindle of kittens...