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02-20-2009, 03:52 PM
#1
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New to the forum
hi everyone
just bought a 1997 1.8 turbo from a guy in my area.
i'm from orlando, the UCF area
the turbo system is kind of a homebrew kit that the previous owner put together
he said it was an hks manifold, sequential blow off valve, i think he said something about the turbo being from an eclipse or something like that
stock injectors and stock ecu. there is a 550cc injector set up right before the intake manifold in the piping set to turn on at full throttle
i'm looking to get a piggyback and 305cc injectors, from what i've read that should work well
the turbo seems to need new bearings, has shaft play....easier to get a new turbo?
it definitely needs a new oil return on the oil pan, its leaking some oil and the car burns oil like crazy when i first start it. i'm assuming its because the seals on the turbo may be no good anymore mostly because the guy before me put the oil return on the lowest part of the oil pan
i had a n/a gti before this miata so i've never owned a turbo car.
any advice would be great and i'll be posting alot of stupid noob questions haha. after i use the search of course.
anyway, let me know what you guys think.
just bought a 1997 1.8 turbo from a guy in my area.
i'm from orlando, the UCF area
the turbo system is kind of a homebrew kit that the previous owner put together
he said it was an hks manifold, sequential blow off valve, i think he said something about the turbo being from an eclipse or something like that
stock injectors and stock ecu. there is a 550cc injector set up right before the intake manifold in the piping set to turn on at full throttle
i'm looking to get a piggyback and 305cc injectors, from what i've read that should work well
the turbo seems to need new bearings, has shaft play....easier to get a new turbo?
it definitely needs a new oil return on the oil pan, its leaking some oil and the car burns oil like crazy when i first start it. i'm assuming its because the seals on the turbo may be no good anymore mostly because the guy before me put the oil return on the lowest part of the oil pan
i had a n/a gti before this miata so i've never owned a turbo car.
any advice would be great and i'll be posting alot of stupid noob questions haha. after i use the search of course.
anyway, let me know what you guys think.
Last edited by turbo97; 02-20-2009 at 04:11 PM.
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02-20-2009, 05:35 PM
#4
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More details on the turbo...thing looks HUGE.
-1 on the tiny radiator...
working well is subjective...
should be one of your first projects...this is why the turbo smokes.
-1 on the tiny radiator...
there is a 550cc injector set up right before the intake manifold in the piping set to turn on at full throttle
i'm looking to get a piggyback and 305cc injectors, from what i've read that should work well
i'm looking to get a piggyback and 305cc injectors, from what i've read that should work well
may be no good anymore mostly because the guy before me put the oil return on the lowest part of the oil pan 
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02-20-2009, 10:09 PM
#9
WOW! That's a pretty terrible build.
If the guy told you it was from a DSM, he was full of ****. DSM T25's are half that size. It's a big T3 or equivalent at a minimum.
Using a WOT switch to control the injector means that any time you are in boost but not at WOT, you are boosting on a completely stock fuel system because I don't see anything to indicate otherwise. Doing that is an instant recipe for a blown motor. I can't see how the thing has managed to survive if that's the case. The only thing that's probably saved that engine so far is 93octane avail in FL.
The size of the radiator probably means the thing runs stupid hot and the head gasket between cylinder 3-4 is hanging on by it's last *** hair.
What does the boost curve look like? When does it spool and how much does it make? If it runs any more than about 5psi, I'd loosen the wastegate arm and keep your foot off the gas until you can get some real engine management.
No matter what, you need wideband right now!
If the guy told you it was from a DSM, he was full of ****. DSM T25's are half that size. It's a big T3 or equivalent at a minimum.
Using a WOT switch to control the injector means that any time you are in boost but not at WOT, you are boosting on a completely stock fuel system because I don't see anything to indicate otherwise. Doing that is an instant recipe for a blown motor. I can't see how the thing has managed to survive if that's the case. The only thing that's probably saved that engine so far is 93octane avail in FL.
The size of the radiator probably means the thing runs stupid hot and the head gasket between cylinder 3-4 is hanging on by it's last *** hair.
What does the boost curve look like? When does it spool and how much does it make? If it runs any more than about 5psi, I'd loosen the wastegate arm and keep your foot off the gas until you can get some real engine management.
No matter what, you need wideband right now!
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02-21-2009, 08:57 AM
#11
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WOW! That's a pretty terrible build.
If the guy told you it was from a DSM, he was full of ****. DSM T25's are half that size. It's a big T3 or equivalent at a minimum.
Using a WOT switch to control the injector means that any time you are in boost but not at WOT, you are boosting on a completely stock fuel system because I don't see anything to indicate otherwise. Doing that is an instant recipe for a blown motor. I can't see how the thing has managed to survive if that's the case. The only thing that's probably saved that engine so far is 93octane avail in FL.
The size of the radiator probably means the thing runs stupid hot and the head gasket between cylinder 3-4 is hanging on by it's last *** hair.
What does the boost curve look like? When does it spool and how much does it make? If it runs any more than about 5psi, I'd loosen the wastegate arm and keep your foot off the gas until you can get some real engine management.
No matter what, you need wideband right now!
If the guy told you it was from a DSM, he was full of ****. DSM T25's are half that size. It's a big T3 or equivalent at a minimum.
Using a WOT switch to control the injector means that any time you are in boost but not at WOT, you are boosting on a completely stock fuel system because I don't see anything to indicate otherwise. Doing that is an instant recipe for a blown motor. I can't see how the thing has managed to survive if that's the case. The only thing that's probably saved that engine so far is 93octane avail in FL.
The size of the radiator probably means the thing runs stupid hot and the head gasket between cylinder 3-4 is hanging on by it's last *** hair.
What does the boost curve look like? When does it spool and how much does it make? If it runs any more than about 5psi, I'd loosen the wastegate arm and keep your foot off the gas until you can get some real engine management.
No matter what, you need wideband right now!
Wow Sam!
Whenever I need a diagnosis, I'm going to present you with pics
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02-23-2009, 12:00 PM
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They can help you if you answer some of their questions and provide some close-up shots of all of the components of the turbo system. Lots of pictures will help your cause a great deal, and get you some more concrete advice.
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