Lurker here....mostly post over at miata net.
Been trying to decide if I build my own, or buy a turbo...as in whole car. I've already got about $4K into my '92, in upkeep, suspension, chassis stiffening, and other mods.
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depends on your skills/knowledge/ability to diagnose stuff.
some "completed projects for sale" are excellent and at insanely good prices. some are nightmares in disguise. you won't really know which one you get unless you purchase a well documented build from a known member or person. |
Stop post whoring. Twelve one sentence posts an hour doesn't earn you points with the locals. I understand you want to send somebody a PM. Take your time, contribute something useful, or leave.
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Welcome to the forum. Keep the BS post count to a minimum.
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 659102)
Stop post whoring. Twelve one sentence posts an hour doesn't earn you points with the locals. I understand you want to send somebody a PM. Take your time, contribute something useful, or leave.
Reading through some of the threads made me recall why I hadn't posted before. There seems to be a much less tolerant attitude with some of the crowd here.
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 659093)
depends on your skills/knowledge/ability to diagnose stuff.
some "completed projects for sale" are excellent and at insanely good prices. some are nightmares in disguise. you won't really know which one you get unless you purchase a well documented build from a known member or person. P.S. I should also mention that I'd be happy with a small boost in power...say 130-150hp at the wheels. But I bet a lot of people say that...starting out. |
IMO about 80% of people say that.
about 10% of those people actually stay at that level lol |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 659171)
IMO about 80% of people say that.
about 10% of those people actually stay at that level lol |
GT2554 is what you want. It will be perfect.
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The other issue is I'm still running the open 6" rear. The car had 68K leisurely miles on it when I bought it. It now has about 5K more, not so leisurely miles. A 7" Torsen is going to have to be part of the equation sooner or later...probably should be before boosting.
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Originally Posted by Disaster
(Post 659174)
I'm just tired of getting embarrassed at lights by soccer moms in their minivans, with a full load of kids and gear in the back. :-{
I started buying turbo parts before I even purchased my car:D |
Originally Posted by Disaster
(Post 659179)
The other issue is I'm still running the open 6" rear. The car had 68K leisurely miles on it when I bought it. It now has about 5K more, not so leisurely miles. A 7" Torsen is going to have to be part of the equation sooner or later...probably should be before boosting.
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Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 659184)
I'd just buy one and have it laying around til you grenade the stocker. unless you want to swap the stocker back in for whatever reason later.
Lately I've been shopping the classifieds here, and a few other places for a built car. Based on what I dumped into mine, with just minor mods, it has got to be a wayyyy cheaper way to go. I even considered buying a car that was pretty rough on outside (rust) and yanking the entire powertrain and dropping it into mine and then parting it out. That one was going for about $5K, which didn't seem to bad if the entire powertrain was good (engine, trans, diff.) Or I might buy a better car and move some stuff over, and then sell my car. The shame would be mine has a nearly perfect body....garaged most of it's life...0 rust. It makes working on it so much nicer. No need for Kroil or barely even an impact gun. Here she is: https://www.miataturbo.net/picture.p...pictureid=1383 List of mods (that I can remember offhand.) 1. Boss Frog Dual Hoop roll bar, frame rails, Frog Arms. 2. Clutch, Flywheel, Pressure plate, Throwout bearing, Pilot bearing, Rear main seal, CAS Oring. 3. Ecode headlights. 4. GV air dam. 5. Monster shift knob. 6. BBS wheels and tires (to replace wires) and 8" 6UL's with RS3's. 7. Radiator switch and rear heater hose. 8. $300 dollars worth of paintless dent repair (to remove the parking lot and garage dings.) 9. $300 bucks on detailing (equipment.) 10. RB sways. 11. GR2 shocks and FCM bumps. 12. Raceland Coilovers (yeah, I know)...not installed yet. 13. Raceland header (useless if do turbo.) 14. Tsudo N1 catback exhaust. 15. High flow cat. |
Originally Posted by Disaster
(Post 659135)
P.S. I should also mention that I'd be happy with a small boost in power...say 130-150hp at the wheels. But I bet a lot of people say that...starting out.
VVT Engine + Engine management + Header + Exhaust + Intake would get you in that range, and you'd have a stock engine. |
Originally Posted by Nagase
(Post 659190)
You don't need a turbo for that power level.
VVT Engine + Engine management + Header + Exhaust + Intake would get you in that range, and you'd have a stock engine. OP has a street car from what it sounds like. Not a race car that's going to get the everliving shit wrung out of it on an hourly basis. a small turbo 150whp miata is going to be 1000% more fun on the street than one with a stock 01+ nb engine swap. Even Sav will agree with that. |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 659192)
OP has a street car from what it sounds like. Not a race car that's going to get the everliving shit wrung out of it on an hourly basis.
a small turbo 150whp miata is going to be 1000% more fun on the street than one with a stock 01+ nb engine swap. I suspect you are right. It would be better to have a low boost, more civil turbo. Plus, I do like to have my wife for a passenger now and then. |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 659192)
Looks like someone is reading Sav's posts and reposting them as gospel:giggle:
OP has a street car from what it sounds like. Not a race car that's going to get the everliving shit wrung out of it on an hourly basis. a small turbo 150whp miata is going to be 1000% more fun on the street than one with a stock 01+ nb engine swap. Even Sav will agree with that.
Originally Posted by Disaster
(Post 659194)
I recall Emilio (949) posting something like that. That he could get 140hp plus on stock engine with just ECU and a few other mods....but those few other mods would run $3K or so...and the extra breathing makes for a very loud, uncivil street machine.
I suspect you are right. It would be better to have a low boost, more civil turbo. Plus, I do like to have my wife for a passenger now and then. Uncivil? Not sure what you mean by that. Stock cams, normal low idle, no drivablility issues. Being able to run at Laguna Seca keeps the car from being loud. A Y8S/Brain exhaust would keep it quiet and make a lot of power. |
Originally Posted by Nagase
(Post 659207)
The 2001-2005 engine came with 142 horsepower stock.
Comparing cost and time, which is more bang for your buck, a low boost turbo or supercharger, or an engine swap? |
Originally Posted by Disaster
(Post 659214)
So going 1.8L from 1.6L gives a 26hp boost. What is that, about 120hp at the wheels? How much more after mods? How much work to swap out engine vs. tack on turbo? Does the 1.8L weigh much more? I guess you'd have to bring the OB2 stuff with it as well...and the extra O2 sensors and EGR.
Comparing cost and time, which is more bang for your buck, a low boost turbo or supercharger, or an engine swap? The swap is straightforward, I'm doing it myself right now, into a 1990. You'll have more fun getting a used cheap turbo setup though. After you get it together, take some months there, blow up an engine or two, eventually replace all the parts with decent ones, you'll just be repeating a lot of stories here. Or just go: Cast manifold FM/Begi downpipe Enthuza exhaust High flow cat GT2554 turbo Megasquirt RX7 injectors Turbo lines Boost controller And you basicly have your own FM Voodoo / BEGI S kit. For your power goals, you want one of those kits, or to basicly copy it. If you go: Ebay manifold AFPR/engine control bandaids You'll hate life. |
Originally Posted by Nagase
(Post 659217)
The 1.8 will weigh about 20lbs more. It'll be a much newer, likely lower milage engine for the cost, though. And no, you don't bring ODB2 stuff with it.
The swap is straightforward, I'm doing it myself right now, into a 1990.
Originally Posted by Nagase
(Post 659217)
You'll have more fun getting a used cheap turbo setup though. After you get it together, take some months there, blow up an engine or two, eventually replace all the parts with decent ones, you'll just be repeating a lot of stories here.
Originally Posted by Nagase
(Post 659217)
Or just go:
Cast manifold FM/Begi downpipe Enthuza exhaust High flow cat GT2554 turbo Megasquirt RX7 injectors Turbo lines Boost controller And you basicly have your own FM Voodoo / BEGI S kit. For your power goals, you want one of those kits, or to basicly copy it. If you go: Ebay manifold AFPR/engine control bandaids You'll hate life. |
Originally Posted by Disaster
(Post 659221)
I'm starting out with a low mile engine that was mostly babied (73K now.)
Exactly the kind of shenanigans I can't afford...in time or money. Looks like the ECU is a big part of cost....$700, but worth it. I like the idea of a kit. Seems like the Begi is the best value. Will need to read a lot more if I'm going to source my own parts. Programming the Megasquirt gives me a little anxiety. Will have to read up more on that too. Get Brain to build you a Megasquirt. Tune it, get used to it. Learn a lot. Just play with it in your free time. Use Tunerstudio, the VE Analyze feature. Install some 460/RX8 injectors, and exhaust/cat. Tune that. By then you'll have your head around tuning, and you'll be ready to put on the whole turbo kit. Tune that, and have fun. |
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