Of Miatas and Men
 

Tell me about the turbos, George. I wanna tend to the turbos!

Greetings all,

I'm some skrub that drives a metallic grey '02 SE, with a BRP MP62 + upgraded pulleys, TDR IC, ID 1000cc, Walbro 255, all managed by a Haltech Elite 1500. Looking for a scene change over to snail power.

Backstory:

'HAWAII NOT MS IT, BRO?' You might ask.. There's like one guy who touches MS up here and he shady AF, says everyone. So I went with what CAN be tuned up here.
It was road tuned by a shop here, but ran into problems. I kept going back to that shop and they got tired of my car so they wont see me no more. My o2 sensor for the wideband died 3 times. By died I mean I'd start my car and it'd just shoot up to max. First time it did that was on a digital innovate (LC2? dunno). Next two times on the newer PLX (multigauge). Everytime I pulled the sensors out, they were blacker than Darker Than Black. I don't know if being to rich ruins them or if running rich was an cause of the real problem. Some dude said electrical problems can ruin them, and I'm thinking something is up. Side note, I'm not really a car guy, or an electrician, so I just speculate with common sense. But I'm getting the feeling the haltech can't properly control the alternator, which itself has a back story. It was replaced with one from autozone, and three from o'reilly's then I settled for one that seemed to work. HOWEVER. Activating both power windows to roll up drops my voltage anywhere from mid 11-13. When this happens, my AFR spikes lean. I'm assuming power is being cut from either injectors or pump? I also see voltage spike over 15, even 17 once. Does it make sense for it to spike higher than what's set in haltech? Anyways, since I can't seem to get a good tune with the mp62, I just want to refresh and go turbo. My goal is around 280-320whp to keep as my daily. I currently have a stage 1 clutch, I forget brand, but it's rated only like 180 ftlbs? Seeing how the FM Stage 1 happy meal is good for 318*, I was planning on going with an EFR 6258 kit from TSE or the 6758, but seems 6258 is better if goal is around 300 anyways?? Because I don't fulllly trust the guy that's going to re-tune it, I want as solid a block and head I can get just cause I heard (rumor?) that he's even blown up an STi on the dyno. I mean, he's not like some complete noob. He DOES have a 7sec 1g that's decently known around the US, so he can make things go fast. Sorry this post is all over the place. There's a lot more to mention but I have to get back to work for quite a bit. I'm ready for the grilling for terrible grammar, bad mechanical knowledge, etc. I'll be on later to continue this post. Thank you for reading and any future input.

Haltech can control your alternator. The guy you have tuning your car is garbage.

Ok, please tell me where you are located.

Welcome to the forum. I enjoyed the entertaining story.

We've got guys who can remote tune a MS by email better than your guy can do it in person. Consider it.

the bros @ tork motorsports in auburn can tune MS, dunno what level of expertise they have but they are better than me (because Im a fucking retard)

But you are correct, there seems to be very few people running/tuning with MS up here in WA.

Isnt the haltech 1500 at least equatable to the MS3 basic? Why waste money on changing when he already has a good ecu? Although you would recoup most or all costs after selling the haltech...

find a different tuner

Message Kraken (https://www.facebook.com/Krakn08/) see what he can offer you. He owns his own foundry and much of the manufacturing process. Just an option. Tell him you want to use the EFR 6258 turbo. He will make sure the kit he sends you fits your car and that turbo. Full kit (ic kit, intake kit, full 2.75" v band exhaust kit, cast manifold, lines, inconel studs....etc) should be completed in the next couple months, just working on the ic kit, probably an over the radiator kit, like TrackDogRacing. You should be able to get everything else shipped within 2 weeks.

Other option (to Trackspeed parts) is MK Turbo. Not a track setup (good for a no nonsense street build), but he does offer very complete kits. https://mkturbo.com/

I would definitely prefer to keep the haltech, I know it's more than capable for my needs, and some.
The guy (who actually currently has my car looking for electrical problems) that's going to tune it isn't a bad tuner. He's just known to push things to their limits sometimes.. (pretty sure that's how he got over 1300HP), so I'm just going to ask for a more conservative tune at first.

I'll have to dig for a pic or two later on my phone, I don't really take pics of my car. As far as shopping list...
I went the lazy route and found a 1stop shop through Sav's TSE.

6258/6758 kit
arp head studs
supertech valves/ springs

acl bearing
arp main stud
BE oil pump
manly H rods
supertech pistons -- 84mm 8.6:1?? Not too sure which to get // what he can/plans to do on sizing.. do I just trust him or ask him to research it himself? (lol)
wiseco rings
skunk2 6mm TB

Things I wasn't sure on:

Coolant reroute?
engine mounts - multiple choices
coil packs?
oil cooler?
will the TDR IC be sufficient, just need new fab'd tubing going down, right?
As I mentioned in OP, this is meant to stay as a daily, mostly a street car with an occasional 2-3 nights at the strip, or a day or 2 (/year) at autoX, when friends/coworkers'.

What do you guys do for exhausts? I'm currently cat-less, but multiple leaks post o2 so I wanted to get a new full.
I've liked ISR, buddy club spec II, and enthuza exhausts..

As far as order of operations.. I wanted to have everything done back to back while everything is out.

Forgive my noobness.

UNRELATED P.S.
My first post was on the PUBG thread, and I got -1 cat for posting my steam ID and saying I play too :confused:

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...35907decbc.jpg
This is from last year.. Yeah, I take a lot of pictures!

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