New member from Florida
 

Hello, long time reader first time posting. I’ve only owned Mazda’s and after owning a fully built mazdaspeed3 making 500 to the wheels i decided to give rwd a try. I bought a bone stock 1990 na with a 1.6L in excess of 160K miles. It threw a rod 3 months later (yes it had oil), leading me to a rebuild. I threw in a 1.6L from an australian Mercury capri, i believe a B6D, of which it was not known running conditions. At the same time i decided to throw a turbo kit on. New chinacharger with no shaft play, ms2 pnp, real tested rx8 yellows. Its conservatively tuned on 93. Have been running it for a month or so, but its not looking great.
Cold compression is 140 across the board. Yes, its low but the tester seems low on all cars. Lets talk about the real issue. Consumption is 1 quart every 30 miles. Car smokes modestly on cold start, no smoke at idle warm or low load, but smokes revving no load and higher rpms/wot. Its grey/blue but has a blackish tint at wot, around 11.5 afr. The concern is wet oil between exhaust manifold and head at cylinder 4. Piston is wet with what seems to be a clear liquid. It was doing this with other injectors, tan tops and blue tops.
I have attached a picture. Want to know expert opinions if valve seals can drip enough oil to leak constant at 70mph. Or if i have a combination of ring at cyl 4 and valve seal. Hope i didnt break any rules, just really concerned. Thanks for the read.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5d8fce88f.jpeg

In 2024 (more or less), these engines should all be considered rebuildable cores. IE: they’ll run if you put them in, but they really should be rebuilt. Dont waste time trying to diagnose leaks and smoke and full catch cans, etc. Tear it down, ball hone it, assemble with new rings/bearings, break it in properly, and enjoy a much better engine.

the soot/oil you see by #4 is probably blow by with a slightly warped manifold.