Headlights weren't the deciding factor. Older vehicles usually have larger (more room) in the engine bays. My 88 land cruiser was like that and most other older cars I've seen, and the NA's looked like they did too, so I started there and didn't really look into NB. But good to know, and all the same 99-04? Also, I started looking into MS, does it help at all to have OBDII or does it not matter?

I'm in FL. OBD only matters in other states.

Planning on tracking the car?

I had a well written and extremely long reply, but I got distracted by the cat thread and lost everything when I tabbed back.
Here is a tl:dr version:
Dimensionally NAs and NBs are so close that most things swap among all the variants.
99-00 have the BP4W.
01-05 have VVT.
04 is also the first year for the MSM.
NBs have different combos of transmissions and rear ends.
You should spend some time looking into which combo meets your particular needs.

​​​​​​When choosing a megasquirt, you pick one that is made for your car's model year.
OBDII is mostly irrelevant.
There is a lengthy sticky detailing the differences among manufacturers.
Read the stickies. The one in my signature is a good place to start.
Also, our search function sucks.
Type miataturbo.net followed by whatever you're looking for into Google.
For instance; typing "miataturbo.net cats" will find This thread for you.

Yeah, in the future I'd like to. But my plan is to drive it for a little while, get ideas for upgrades and which direction I wanna go, as well as go to some meet ups and see other people's builds and get ideas there. Then track it.

Well after all of this I'll probably go NB. And yeah, I gotta do more research into that. Figure out things like LSD, and drivetrain stuff.
MS-alright, that makes things a little simplet. Thanks
Also, I found the cat thread and the insert b.s. here thread..i feel right at home here haha

so many wrongs here.

99-00 bp4w
01-05 have vvt
01 first year of MSM? what? 04-05 only.

and quite to the contrary, 99-05 have more engine bay room, as the pop up headlights take up lots of space.
99-05 have more fender clearance for wider tires 225-245
01-05 have more under bracing, making for a stiffer chassis. also have better looking front end with better headlights.

there are also special edition cars, such as 99 10th anniversary, 2000 SE, 2001 SE, 2002 SE. those are very desirable in the turbo world, as they already have a 3.9 torsen rear and a 6 speed. and later 01-02 SE cars have bigger sport brakes.

i suggest you first read up on all the various miata models and years, and come back to these forums a more educated noob.

I thought the bigger sport brakes were options on 01-02 and then became standard on all 03+?

Correct.

that's correct. But I am talking about special edition 01-02 which have 6 speeds and sport brakes

Understood, just reading it at first glance (at least to me) it could be interpreted (or implied) that 01-02 came with the sport brakes as well. But I digress, carry on.

Correct on all points.
As I said, I quickly rewrote a much longer post. Should have proof-read.

01-02 is God's Miata.

This is a long thread that could have been a 15 second google search.

I mean, if you want to get real technical, in 2001 mazda did have the mazdaspeed roadster that was in laser blue with gold wheels but it was naturally aspirated. But I doubt that is what the the poster above was referring to and it was a Japan only car.
2001 Mazdaspeed Roadster (since May 2001 for Japan special edition) specs review

But. To the OP, do what concealer404 said and buy anything that is 94 or newer. It just isn't worth modifying a 1.6 miata engine wise when for the same money you can start with a better platform. Ask me how I know.

So I've done as much research as I can so far while at work since yesterday. Considering NB..not sure 1 vs 2. Also, SN, I've never boosted an engine so all this is new to me. What I've learned has brought new questions..
1-BP4W vs BPZ3..ive learned there's better compression and a better intake port angle, from 39* to 51*, but with VVT..dooes that make tuning easier? Also, I don't plan on making a monster, just like early to mid 200 whp.
2- torsen vs tochigi-fuji..torsen is better in corners. Is that really it?
Also, in the same article/thread I saw the same person in the same post say, stock 1.8L diff can handle +400whp then later say OS Giken/Cusco/Kauz recommended for +200whp. So I'm lost there
3- 5spd vs 6spd..race vs cruising respectively? And "better?" gearing, 4.30:1 vs 3.909:1. I assumed 3.9 is desirable over 4.3 due to increased mid range torque.
4- NB2 bigger brakes, more bracing, which is nice, but I read premium isn't worth it when you can put a vvt on a bp4w on regular gas and have higher output, true?
P.S. trying my best not to be noob swine

You're learning. Good. You will do well here if you keep that up.

1) 4w is easier/simpler. the z3/6d makes more torque due to vvt
2) tf is unreliable and many have failed.
6sp holds way more power/torque and has better track gearing
3) 3.9 if turbo 4.3 if n/a
4) no, not true.

99-00 4w is simpler to tune, since no vvt 01-05 vvt makes a tad more low-midrange torque due to having vvt. both are fine engines, both can easily make 250hp stock.
1.8L diff can take 400hp, its very rare for them to break. aftermarket diffs only for the serious track cars.

You will be just fine making 200-250hp in any 94-05 Miata. so pick a body style that you like and find a clean car that has a torsen rear.

I've personally owned all generations, 1.6 NA 1.8NA, NB1, NB2 and my favorite is my current 02 NB2. the chassis bracing makes a big difference in refining ride quality, and the bumper/headlights are better styled.

I'm honestly looking for simple, more to learn on not 1/4 mile times. So..
1- 4w looks like the way to go
2- stick to torsen? Or should I go for a clutch pack like Giken, etc..
3- 3.9 it is.
4- good to know

Also, how TF do you break your paragraphs?? Like old-school MySpace [/break] word [/paragraph] word. I was testing with that <- lol

Regurgitated, but consolidated

90-93:
1.6L motor (B6P)
4.3:1 6” rear differential
Flippy flappy headlights
Don’t buy unless you like spending money twice

94-97:
1.8L motor (BP05 head)
9:1 CR
Hydraulic lifters
Not so awesome flowing head
4.1:1 7” rear differential introduced

99-00:
1.8L (BP4W head)
9.5:1 CR
Solid lifters introduced
Head flows better
VICS intake manifold makes best mid-range torque
Optional 6spd introduced. 6spd is generally considered more clunky but stronger than 5 speed
4.3:1 ratio for 5 spd, 3.9:1 ratio for 6 spd
Seats generally despised
No more flippy flappy headlights

01-05:
1.8L (BP6D head)
10:1 CR
VVT introduced
These heads make the most power, but take a little bit more tuning work to optimize VVT
VTCS intake manifold is junk. Gut the butterflies, or Get a JDM/EUDM “flat top”, skunk2 manifold, or VICS manifold
Optional sport brakes
2003+ NB2 refresh made optional sport brakes standard
NB2 refresh switched from torsen to to-fu LSD. 3.9:1 ratio

04-05 Mazdaspeed miata:
Much dollars, much bragging rights. More or less a BP4W with a dookie turbo system on it. Strong rear dif with axles made from unicorn tears that you can’t get. The point & pay option.