New to miatas. just bought a '90 with FMII Hydra
 

I just bought a really clean 40k original mile '90 model. Its got a turbo system which I understand started out as a BEGi kit and was upgraded by the last owner to FMII (2560). Its also got the Hydra computer, 550cc injectors, flyin miata stainless exhaust. The car is set up at 12 psi.

I decided to buy already modified because it seemed like such a good deal. I come from V8 muscle cars and 4x4's, and have sunk big money into them, only to lose it all when selling. I'm trying to get on the other end this time by buying already modified.

I've been lurking, reading posts on this forum and others for months, but I have so much to learn, especially if anything ever goes wrong with my car.

Right now, due to a horrendous oil leak that was grossly understated when I bought the car, I'm starting to work on the maintenance items that have probably never been done, but are 20 years old--timing belt, water pump, front seal, all gaskets.

The car is tons of fun to drive. There's one minor issue. Sometimes at high rpm (6k or more), the car misses, or coughs. I plan to get a usb/serial adapter for my laptop and do some logging on the Hydra and see what that shows. I'm hoping its something simple.

Also, its got a manual boost controller, because the previous owner couldn't figure out the EBC wiring. When I get brave, I may tackle that one too so I can have 2 boost settings.

Oh, I've got some parts to sell that came from the original BEGI kit (not needed with the Hydra). MSD boost control box, FMU, original computer, original intake, air meter, etc.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Welcome aboard.

You'll find a couple of good threads about hooking up the EBC here.

Some pics of your car would be nice.

here's a couple camera phone pics
 

Thanks. Here's some pics.

I assume you've done your research but if you haven't ...

1. Read up on the short nose crank on '90/'91's. An improperly installed t-belt/crank pulley can lead to a chewed up crank nose. A new woodruff key, bolt and quality/calibrated torque wrench is a must.

2. Buy a 1.8 rear diff swap now (if the car hasn't already been upgraded) because your 6" diff will eventually fail.

-Zach

Thanks. I've read about the problem, and my car is one of them, but kinda forgot about being able to do something about it.

I forgot to mention that the previous owner already upgraded to the 1.8/LSD.

Replace your spark plugs and plug wires.

Also, search around here regarding plug choice and gapping. You may need to gap them down if it's occurring at high boost.

Thanks, I'll also be looking for any relatively easy ignition upgrades.

I'm still looking for one of those!!

Yeah, so far with my searches I've seen the Toyota coil on plug setup. Doesn't look terribly easy...

As far as plug and play, I see:

Moss Motors performance coil. $289 (can't find anything about it using search)
Boundary Engineering WeaponX coil on plug. $439 (a search shows this to be a risk, and completely unproven).

Welcome aboard.

The hardest part about doing the toyota COPs is making the mounting bracket. You have a hydra so you can adjust the dwell w/o having to build/buy a circuit.

+1 on what roach says. I'm the most mechanically challenged guy on this board and I was able to do my Toyota COPs. They've never given me any issues and I've been running my car with them for over 1 year now.