Jess, I don't know if I'd recommend it for someone that much taller. I'm a little close to the wheel / pedals for DD (1 click too close) and just right for track driving.
I have a 32" inseam which seems to be the key number here. My dad who's the same height actually pulls the seat forward a click.


As for the seat pan. Unfortunately my pictures above don't show it, but I think you can get more travel if you do more work to the pan. I beat mine in maybe 1/2" in and it's actually hitting the floor/ connector for the O2 sensor (at the trans tunnel), but if you were to take out the whole "bucket" part and re-weld or just carefully beat it, I think you can get the extra few clicks of travel. It is limited by where the rails connect to the floor as slmhofy pointed out.


Regarding the rails, I took them off the seat, measured the separation and drilled the holes that way. Bolting was actually pretty easy since I welded the bolts into the tracks where I drilled the new holes. Whatever you do, make sure to brace the back side of the bolt holes. Just a bolt and nut through the floor pan could pull out if you have an accident.

The other problem for someone much taller is interference with the roll bar. I really don't know how someone much bigger would fit with this bar. You could pull the seat back more vertical, but that causes new problems with height. I have been to the track with a guy your height who bolted a DD friendly race seat to the floor and was very happy (don't remember which seat). Best of luck!


Whatever you do make sure to post pictures!

Thanks for the comments. I'll surely post pictures of whatever I decide, and measurements in the Spring of how the seat rail looks in the rear most position. That should help people decide in the future. Removing the rear seat humps isn't difficult but replacing them is more painful if you can't weld!

I've been reading the 60 page thread "What seats do YOU have" on ClubRoadster.net and not gleaning much useful information.

My ideal setup would be tan leather Elise seats on OEM sliders. Trying to locate a set, or even a single seat is very difficult. That looks like the most friendly design for daily use since I have the OEM airbag steering wheel. I'm sure a removable steering wheel makes entry/exit much easier but I'm not into racing and don't want to lose the airbag.

seen this car in person and watched it go around atlanta motorsports park at a nice clip....

great car!

Update:

Car is now MegaSquirted and it's awesome. Rev built MS3 plugged right in an started on teh first crank. A little time with VEAL and it runs even better. Can't say enough good things about Rev!

Also, FatCat suspension was completely rebuilt over the winter with new street/track bump stops. Add to that Hawk HP+ pads, Nickel 6ULs w/ BFG Rivals and the car tracks very nicely.

Very happy with the setup, but could always use more cooling. The Mishi 55 is not quite up to the task even with the vented hood. Hope to see the temps under better control with the MS3.

Undertray?

Unfortunately full under tray, stock fans, air tight ducting from bumper to radiator, burped after filling coolant and a vented hood with proper low pressure zone venting.

I suspect the cheap intercooler, A/C and possibly a thermostat that doesn't open all the way.

Thermostat is the high quality NAPA replacement, but isn't OEM. Other than pulling thermostat and seeing how it runs when warm I'm not sure what to do next.

I had my FMII 02 in Atlanta for 7 years.....it was registered to an address in the mountains lol. It's not hard to do- just make sure your license and registrations match up and no one will notice.