Im New to this site!
04-22-2008, 10:11 PM
#1
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Longs, SC
Posts: 2,566
Total Cats: 13
Im New to this site!
Hi! Im new, I have a 1990 Miata, silver (silverstar?? idk the color) with around 150K as far as I know thats on everything. Buffalo Ny, and proud waver to other miatas. No turbo, no mods of my own on this car at this time. Would LOVE that greddy kit, right now I cant afford it but that wont stop me from staring at it. Basicly Im posting so I can post other places because of the post minimum.
Reply
0
0
04-22-2008, 10:13 PM
#2
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Longs, SC
Posts: 2,566
Total Cats: 13
Also I am a member of Miata.net under the same user name for a few weeks, and I signed up so I could view pictures on here like 70% of the reason. Figured I should try to soak up as much turbo info as I can.
Reply
0
0
04-22-2008, 10:49 PM
#3
Elite Member
iTrader: (22)
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Sunny Spanish speaking Non US Caribbean
Posts: 3,224
Total Cats: 3
As far as I can see you're the proud owner of a Miata so, pics or ban!
Reply
0
0
04-22-2008, 11:12 PM
#6
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Longs, SC
Posts: 2,566
Total Cats: 13
had it for a few weeks, brand new top, no hard top but frankenstein bolts.
Also its a little abused looks like the PO hit something with the rear fenders both are a little scratched up, other then that its in great shape. Underbody is clean very little rust.
Also its a little abused looks like the PO hit something with the rear fenders both are a little scratched up, other then that its in great shape. Underbody is clean very little rust.
Reply
0
0
04-23-2008, 09:50 AM
#10
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Longs, SC
Posts: 2,566
Total Cats: 13
lol, This is my first stick, So I need to get used to it first, But Id love a nice leather shift ****, a short throw shifter. Been drooling over that Greddy turbo kit, but at this point its way out of my price range. Thought Forge Motorsport would make some good tubing for an IC, add some color. Also the Dual exhaust looks great peeking out from the back. But all that is future stuff, right now Im trying to get the stereo working again (PO
) Looking to replace the steering wheel its a little chewed up, and looking for a hard top.
) Looking to replace the steering wheel its a little chewed up, and looking for a hard top.
Reply
0
0
04-23-2008, 11:12 AM
#11
Leather shift ***** are GHEY! You need a Voodoo ****. It'll take an inch out of the height and make it "feel" shorter. I have the Magnum Black Textured $36: http://www.crazyred.com/cri/pages/voodoo.html
Also, for information only: Style bars are not rollbars. That chrome thing behind the seats will not support the weight of the car in a rollover and has a decent chance of collapsing and killing you if you put the car on it's roof.
And here is some important stuff. Before you buy anything, you really need to do a complete round of preventative maintenance.
Did the car come with any records?
Oil, coolant, tranny/dif fluid, spark plugs, wires, fuel filter, timing belt, clutch, A/C, brakes, P/S, shocks, motor mounts, etc... If you're not very smart about cars, find a buddy who knows and ask him to look over it.
I also wouldn't buy an exhaust until you decide if you're going to turbo it. A naturally aspirated exhaust will rob your turbo of power... in the end, it makes WAY MORE SENSE to buy a turbo exhaust when you go turbo.
When you get enough posts for the classifieds, put a WTB ad for a steering wheel... plenty of guys have them stockers sitting around doing nothing if they've swapped to aftermarket. If you're thinking aftermarket, expect to spend $250+ dollars.
More free/good advice. Once you've gotten your preventative maint under control and the car is mechanically sound, start simple and be safe:
A real rollbar.
1.8 brake upgrade w/stainless lines and sport pads.
Decent tires... you can keep your current wheels/tires for winter use, but look into a set of used stock wheels with summer rubber on them in the classifieds at m.net.
Here you go: http://www.miata.net/cgi-bin/isc/cla...revaction=show Just wait for some stock 15" wheels ($200 max) to pop up and you're set for summer tires and wheels for $400 plus a little for shipping.
First suspension mods if your shocks are good should be swaybars. The easy solution is Racing Beat... for sale ALL THE TIME in the m.net classifieds. You can look at shocks for the future if you really intend to hit the hills or get into auto-x.
The most important thing is to do your homework and make good initial purchases. Most guys here will tell you they could care less how it looks as long as it's reliable and cheap... and if we can build one ourselves we will. I used to brag that there isn't a single mod made on my car that was purchased with any intention of "looks". Everything is simply for better performance. Then I wrinkle-painted my valve cover and sold out.
Welcome to the forum.
Also, for information only: Style bars are not rollbars. That chrome thing behind the seats will not support the weight of the car in a rollover and has a decent chance of collapsing and killing you if you put the car on it's roof.
And here is some important stuff. Before you buy anything, you really need to do a complete round of preventative maintenance.
Did the car come with any records?
Oil, coolant, tranny/dif fluid, spark plugs, wires, fuel filter, timing belt, clutch, A/C, brakes, P/S, shocks, motor mounts, etc... If you're not very smart about cars, find a buddy who knows and ask him to look over it.
I also wouldn't buy an exhaust until you decide if you're going to turbo it. A naturally aspirated exhaust will rob your turbo of power... in the end, it makes WAY MORE SENSE to buy a turbo exhaust when you go turbo.
When you get enough posts for the classifieds, put a WTB ad for a steering wheel... plenty of guys have them stockers sitting around doing nothing if they've swapped to aftermarket. If you're thinking aftermarket, expect to spend $250+ dollars.
More free/good advice. Once you've gotten your preventative maint under control and the car is mechanically sound, start simple and be safe:
A real rollbar.
1.8 brake upgrade w/stainless lines and sport pads.
Decent tires... you can keep your current wheels/tires for winter use, but look into a set of used stock wheels with summer rubber on them in the classifieds at m.net.
Here you go: http://www.miata.net/cgi-bin/isc/cla...revaction=show Just wait for some stock 15" wheels ($200 max) to pop up and you're set for summer tires and wheels for $400 plus a little for shipping.
First suspension mods if your shocks are good should be swaybars. The easy solution is Racing Beat... for sale ALL THE TIME in the m.net classifieds. You can look at shocks for the future if you really intend to hit the hills or get into auto-x.
The most important thing is to do your homework and make good initial purchases. Most guys here will tell you they could care less how it looks as long as it's reliable and cheap... and if we can build one ourselves we will. I used to brag that there isn't a single mod made on my car that was purchased with any intention of "looks". Everything is simply for better performance. Then I wrinkle-painted my valve cover and sold out.
Welcome to the forum.
Reply
0
0
04-23-2008, 02:59 PM
#12
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Longs, SC
Posts: 2,566
Total Cats: 13
I know about the style bar. Its crap, I figure I might as well leave it on until I can upgrade. Waiting on my tax return and planning on using it to get some new fluid. Already know it needs new springs, working on that as we speak, found some but were out of stock so... Needs a new belt too squeeks like hell when I first start it. Ive looked at alot of voodoo ***** Im still getting used to driving a stick so I thought I should prolly wait.
Reply
0
0
04-23-2008, 07:56 PM
#14
Does your state require front license plates? I notice that yours is in the passenger side of the windshield. In CA we are required to have a front plate but can still get a ticket for having it the way yours is. I don't want to put my plate on the front bumper either. =/
As everyone else already mentioned, do maintenance before mods. It's easier to troubleshoot a system when there are less unknown entities involved.
As everyone else already mentioned, do maintenance before mods. It's easier to troubleshoot a system when there are less unknown entities involved.
Reply
0
0
04-23-2008, 08:21 PM
#15
You might not need a new belt... and it'd be good to isolate which one. Do you have AC or PS? If so, then you have 2 belts. One belt comes off the crank pulley and turns the waterpump and alternator. The other belt comes off the crank pulley and turns the AC/PS. The alternator bracket has a long rod on it that you turn to take up the slack on that belt. If you've got more than about 1/4" of flex in it, then take up the slack and your squeek will go away.
And springs generally don't go bad. You might need new shocks, but springs technically should last forever. What makes you think you need springs? At this point I certainly wouldn't lower the car. People around here who've lowered their car would probably give you their old stock springs for the cost of shipping, but I doubt you need them. Shocks and swaybars are the first ticket for your suspension shortfalls. Tires are close second.
Since you're in NY, I can imagine how the paint and undercarriage look. Take an afternoon and detail the **** out of the whole car... and by whole car, I MEAN WHOLE CAR. Start with the outside, wash/clay/clean/polish/wax (check out Meguires 3-step stuff, I love their TechWax)... coat all the weatherstripping and interior plastic/leather stuff with some ArmorAll or equivalent (again, Meguires is my preference).
Then put the car up high on jackstands, take the wheels off, take the under-engine plastic tray off... and clean the **** out of everything. Use some Engine-Brite and get the whole thing clean. Swap in a new fuel filter while you're under there ($10). SCRUB SCRUB SCRUB... get in there good and deep. Use a toothbrush for the tight areas. Use soap on all the suspension components. Working on a clean car makes the work go so much faster... and every time you get a new leak or need to troubleshoot, the problem presents itself way more obviously if the car is clean.
I'm admittedly a little nutty when it comes to cleaning ****... but there's a certain amount of satisfaction that goes along with it.
And springs generally don't go bad. You might need new shocks, but springs technically should last forever. What makes you think you need springs? At this point I certainly wouldn't lower the car. People around here who've lowered their car would probably give you their old stock springs for the cost of shipping, but I doubt you need them. Shocks and swaybars are the first ticket for your suspension shortfalls. Tires are close second.
Since you're in NY, I can imagine how the paint and undercarriage look. Take an afternoon and detail the **** out of the whole car... and by whole car, I MEAN WHOLE CAR. Start with the outside, wash/clay/clean/polish/wax (check out Meguires 3-step stuff, I love their TechWax)... coat all the weatherstripping and interior plastic/leather stuff with some ArmorAll or equivalent (again, Meguires is my preference).
Then put the car up high on jackstands, take the wheels off, take the under-engine plastic tray off... and clean the **** out of everything. Use some Engine-Brite and get the whole thing clean. Swap in a new fuel filter while you're under there ($10). SCRUB SCRUB SCRUB... get in there good and deep. Use a toothbrush for the tight areas. Use soap on all the suspension components. Working on a clean car makes the work go so much faster... and every time you get a new leak or need to troubleshoot, the problem presents itself way more obviously if the car is clean.
I'm admittedly a little nutty when it comes to cleaning ****... but there's a certain amount of satisfaction that goes along with it.
Reply
0
0
04-23-2008, 10:45 PM
#16
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Longs, SC
Posts: 2,566
Total Cats: 13
yeah I have AC/PS right now the AC fan doesnt work could that be whats causing the squeeling? The PS does work. Took it to get inspected, the rear drivers side spring is broken at the top, so it still sits in the little tray thing but it wont pass inspection. While it was lifted it looked around the underbody pretty closely and everything looked good, very little rust. As stated I am in NY but the car isnt from here orignialy, I bought it from a guy in Mass who got it from an auction in Conn I believe, the car doesnt seem to of seen much snow in its life. Also it has a brand new top on it.
Reply
0
0
04-23-2008, 11:02 PM
#17
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Longs, SC
Posts: 2,566
Total Cats: 13
Does your state require front license plates? I notice that yours is in the passenger side of the windshield. In CA we are required to have a front plate but can still get a ticket for having it the way yours is. I don't want to put my plate on the front bumper either. =/
But its the law
Reply
0
0
04-25-2008, 03:30 PM
#19
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Longs, SC
Posts: 2,566
Total Cats: 13
ok so I took a look at my belts, they both look pretty good and feel pretty tight, it only squeels when I first start it after that if it start it again its fine.
Reply
0
0
