Texafornian 95 Black Jumbata
 

Owned my Miata for three years. Purchased bone stock after a wreck and have completely restored the car from a rebuilt motor to a new interior, paint and body. I have done all the work myself, except for installation of the rebuilt motor and the paint.

Removed the EGR system and charcoal cannister
TRM C1M 15x8
Megan EZ streets coilovers
Racing Beat front anti-sway
Flyin Miata frame rail reinforcements
Hard Dog Extreme roll bar with SFI padding
Chaser aero CF hard top with Lexan window
Stock motor rebuild, shaved & cut valve cover
Fidanza cam gears
Kraftwerks/Rotrex supercharger kit
DW 350cc injectors
DW200 fuel pump
Rising rate FPR
Vacuum block manifold
Saikou Michi Oil Catch Can
Cobalt STB with Carbing firewall brace
NRG radiator panel
Moss low-pro headlights
Chaser Wizdom front and rear bumpers
Racing Beat header
Magnaflow hi-flow cat
Magnaflow cat-back exhaust
PLX AFR & Vac/Boost multi-gauge
Yonaka seats reupholstered
Redline interior trim
Schroth ASM 4pt harnesses
Harness bar

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1366993471

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Lived in Texas for most of my life but moving to California this summer = Texafornian

For the most part my car is a daily driver but I'll take it to the track once or twice a year just to scratch that itch. The rebuilt motor was done at 218,000 miles. The Rotrex went in at 223,000 miles and the clock is sitting just about 230,000 today.

I don't get it.

Rebuilt stock motor and SC?


Banned.

Your car is clean but:



:fael:

Any dyno or quarter mile?

so,

no ignition/timing control what-so-ever

kill yourself

Dude carbon fiber spark plug cover and STB? That car must be really fast.

BRO DO YOU EVEn mod

Have you really added 5 more things that need vacuum sources than factory? o_O

:noes: Tough crowd.

Yep. Goals for the car are 225whp. If I wanted more an that I would have built the bottom end but why pay for what I won't use? I also wanted to be different- none of my previous builds have ever gone the way the mainstream goes. Don't really care too much about cost, this is all for fun anyway. My goals for this car are entirely for cruising and the occasional track day. Never autocross, will drag it just to get a timeslip for this setup. I daily drive it when it's not down for projects.

Not true, but I know you know this. Stock ECU controls the timing and ignition; the kraftwerks kit comes with the supporting parts. The kit uses an inexpensive fuel solution and I do plan to go with an aftermarket EMS but just haven't gotten to it yet. Only so much time and money invested to this point, so give me a couple more months. EMS is actually why I joined MT.net and Ive already read through the forum section. Until then I'm happy wringing out the new Kraftwerks kit. Happy to report no belt issues so far and I haven't heard about any belt problems from any of the forum members who have the new run of kits.

Actually yes, I shaved the manifold port at the TB side, added the recirculation valve, rising rate FPR, and PLX boost/vac gauge. I first had everything T'd together but thought it looked like crap. I also really like the idea that the boost gauge, recirculation valve, RRFPR and stock FPR are all referencing the same block. I've read about inconsistent vacuum due to turbulence at the back of the intake manifold of forced induction applications. Thought this would be a solution to that since I used two differnt size and position manifold ports as feeds to the block.

The block manifold was $20 off eBay and I love it, just like I love the CF hard top & plug cover, aftermarket shift knob and quite a few other things I did just for aesthetics. Don't really need any of them but they make me happy in my pants.

Ebay rods cost like $300. I know it's a failcharger so it doesn't make any torque, but if you already had the motor apart you are retarded for not putting rods in.

Your stock ECU doesn't know how to control timing in boost, which is what he meant by "nothing to control ignition/timing". It would actually be better if literally nothing was controlling the ignition because at least if your motor isn't running it can't blow up.

Lol, ok I see your point but it didn't occur to me to put eBay anything in my motor. If I were going to do rods they might as well be quality. And if you do rods you might as well do pistons and change compression to take advantage... meh. I build for a goal. Id rather spend that $300 on the boomslang harness I need to mate up with the AEM EMS-4 that will actually get me to my goal with the setup I have. I know overbuilding some parts of the system leads to temptation... Been there on other cars and and know what I'm after with this one. Almost there but still have some cash to save and months to go.

As for the ignition/timing, the AEM will take care of all of it. The motor is not in any danger of blowing up right now because it is running baseline rich with the RRFPR, leaning out to 12.5 at WOT in the upper rpm ranges, according to the PLX. I'm not saying the RRFPR is a great solution, but it is definitely better than nothing. It's actually well matched to the centrifugal charger because boost is delivered linearly with RPM.

So right now my mpgs sort of suck and I might be killing my cat... But besides that I don't have any problem running this kit off the shelf for a year or so. The AEM should be a nice bump in power along with better mpgs once a quality tune is in place.

Welcome to the site Jumbosrule, thanks for joining up!

I want details on the catch can. I read about Saikoy Michwhatever on MotoIQ awhile back and they seemed to have good stuff. Tell me more.

Are you trolling? 12.5 in boost and no timing retard?

This particular can was ordered custom for a v6 application. Saikou Michi will build the can with whatever size barbs and fittings, orientation, snorkel diameter... Anything you want at no extra charge above the price listed on the site. Since this can was for a v6, flow shouldn't be an issue. I installed it along with the supercharger about 7k miles ago.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1367065648

Yes nudge, I was trolling, same as your last four posts in this thread in less than 24 hours. It's fun for me too.

You're running on borrowed time if you're really just dumping fuel as your tuning "solution". One thing that always makes me laugh is people saying, "I'm just running it like this for now until I get real engine management." I'm sure your motor understands and will try it's hardest to keep itself together.

Reminds me of Hyper and his dyno showing 14.5:1 AFR's "I can't afford MS right now, so I gotta run it like this."

Ditch the ricer ass INVADERZ body kit.

Welcome! I'm not into body kits (although my front end will deem me a hypocrite) but your car is super clean. Very nice!!
Get some squirt in that car man!!!! Lol

Thanks man. Yeah, management is on the way. Till then I'm just going to have to trust that the Kraftwerk guys did their homework and didnt put out a kit that would blow the motor. Think that is a safe assumption since there haven't been any failures reported in either generation kit where installation was done off the shelf like mine. And you know what? If the motor does blow, I'll replace it - should be fun.

The car was in a wreck before I bought it and the body kit choice was twofold; front and rear bumpers plus side skirts was less than the cost of a new OEM bumper, support and air dam. I never installed the side skirts but still have them. And second, I flat out like it better than OEM, which I think looks a little anemic. The from end is so much better with this kit, IMO. So those who think it looks ricer, whatever... call it whatever you want and I'll continue to rock it proudly. I think it's awesome.

Front end is definitely better than stock... Stock front end has no chin. I wouldn't call it rice... Much less rice-ish than most of the kits out there.

I think the body kit is hideous, but whatever, you've done some other decent stuff and you like it so to each their own. Functional? No, but you know that. Also no need for a built motor for your goals so again, whatever. I don't know what kraftwerks uses for their kit for timing so cant comment there.

Getting deeper into the AEM. Collecting parts and just discovered a Crank Sensor signal modification that is required in order to play with the AEM.

It looks like I need a 99+ sensor and will have to retrofit it to my 95. I also need the supermiata crank damper pulley with the 12+1 trigger wheel, which is another $441. No big deal - just not something I read about before buying the EMS-4. Got the computer from AEM, the harness from Boomslang and the crank damper pulley with trigger wheel from Trackspeed Engineering.

Got the AEM EMS-4 with 2 Bar MAP sensor and AEM IAT, pigtail 52" from OEM location. Boomslang wire harness for 1995 with power steering and AC. Disable check engine light, complete standalone install. PLX O2 sensor will daisy chain into my PLX multi-gauge already installed and have a comm wire to the AEM.

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Since about half of what I do is because I think it looks cool and I can at least argue for functionality, I'm also getting Garage Star's lightweight pulley set. This way all the pulleys on the motor will be silver except for the AC compressor and I can live with that. Along with a lightened flywheel and an upgraded clutch, I expect to feel the motor spin up more freely.

Looking forward to getting a dyno run of the baseline Kraftwerks kit against a run with the AEM installed. Hopefully in the next month or so I'll have all the parts.

I guess I abandoned this thread a while ago but sitting here at work sorta bored, I thought I'd chuck in an update.

The build has been complete for a while now but as anybody knows the project is never really complete. The front and rear bumpers have returned to stock. Added a lip & TDR splitter... which has been removed since this photo.

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So many more parts have been added since I posted last but the current numbers are 236whp and 218wtq using the C30-94 compressor, AEM EMS4, ID 1000cc injectors, Sequential COP conversion, 5X racing APFR, MAF delete, Kraftwerks RRFPR delete, Koyo Rad with FM shroud, door bars, Wilwood 4 wheel LBBK with Carbotech pads (XP12/XP8), Autokonnexion Type II flares, CarbonMiata spoiler... and the list goes on.

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Volk TE37V 15x9-15 with NT01 225/45/15 on all four corners

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What pulley diameters are you running? Did you log how many psi you are seeing?

85mm pulley on the Rotrex. Standard SuperMiata crank damper pulley.

10psi @ 6500rpm

Whoa! Quite a change. Mucho mas better.

4-points? That really should change.

Schroth 4-pt ASM (anti-submarine) DOT legal and accepted on Buttonwillow, Willow Springs, Laguna Seca, AAA Speedway... everywhere I have been on track in Texas (MSRH) and California so far.

Finished up the Tein EDFC Active Pro install but still need to run calibrations on the speed and G-sensors. In-car manual adjustments are working and so is the assigned switch input.

I added in a Rowe Electronics PDM to handle the power & fusing for the control and rear EDFC modules. The front module is wired into the engine bay fuse box. The PDM is a pretty cool gadget - six power channels with programmable fuses, on & off time delays and both ACC and/or GND triggers.

Rear EDFC module and PDM

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Front module

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Control mounted

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temporary switch panel. Thinking I'll relocate this into the glove box.

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Alignment scheduled for tomorrow with all new hardware... then I'll start dialing in the programming for speed & G sensors. Will run the canyons this coming weekend as a maiden voyage.

Please try to stay out of the asshattery thread. ;)

I will attempt to avoid that by using a three pronged approach.

1) I won't be driving like an asshat when feeling out a new setup
2) I won't be taking any video
3) I wouldn't admit to screwing up that bad if it did happen, but there are dudes out there taking photos so my plan is not foolproof...

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Pre-Hoon on a Camarillo Airport runway yesterday. Big Willow in two weeks. New Carbotech XP12 and XP8 pads to replace the Wilwood street pads.

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Car wouldnt start last weekend so I was busy with my DMM, checking voltages at the starter, ignition switch, etc. Turns out the Start wire power feed is bad somehow. No voltage from the ignition switch to the fusebox, but the ignition switch checks out just fine. Had to replace a burnt ignition switch about two years ago so I was surprised the fault seemed to be in that circuit.

So I decided to do a push to start button so I could bypass the bad wire. I picked up a Cruise Control switch and used it as my starter since it is a momentary switch (which is what you want for a start button). Using a relay, the CC button is now the trigger.

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It worked perfectly the first time. Added bonus... security. Car will not start without the key in the ACC position and the start button depressed.

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Removed the R-package lip and TDR radical splitter. Could never feel any difference with this installed, good or bad.
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Replaced it with a CCP fab front lip & splitter with flat bottom - a much larger and more sturdy product.

http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/p...c.jpg~original

But for install I decided to use Rivnuts (or in this case, Plusnuts) so that I could remove and install the lip easily. Turns out there are 8 bolts total - it takes about 10 minutes to remove or install the lip.

Plusnut installation:
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Mounted lip/splitter
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So far so good - at highway speeds I perceive a difference in stability - the front end "floats" less and seems to be more precise. No track experience yet.

On the rear end, I cut the bumper and added GarageStar's rear brace/tow hook.

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Finally got a new filter for the Supercharger intake - I've been using the same one for five years and there is no hint of red left on the element.

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Given the location of the intake filter, I was thinking a vented or NACA duct driver's side headlight lid might be a good addition. Started looking around for which one jives with the car. You can also see the prop valve remote adjustment cable routed off the valve. From there it is routed into the cabin. No need to hot pit the car - I can bump the adjustment going down the straights and feel the difference immediately. You can see the blue adjustment knob under the door bar.

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And finally I picked up GarageStar's COP billet COP bracket. Fitment is perfect - definitely better than the bracket I was using before.

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That front spoiler thingy looks good. In for a track report!

+1 on the front spoiler thing. Time to google.

MLSR 2016

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Looks great.