Turbo now, 2.0L later?
 

Hey all, long time listener, first time poster.

I've got a 1.6L with AVO turbo kit and TEC-2 ECU about to come out of the car for a (currently) NA 2.0 motor that has some insane work done on it. I'll document that with photos to come but with traffic and a focus towards getting the nut behind the wheel dialed in I'll be leaving it NA for a little while. The TEC-2 will stay, but the motor is coming out!

-Greer

thanks greer

turbo now
2.0 now
do it NOW

Do you mean a 2L as in a bored and or stroked bp or a variant of the f engine family or something else entirely?

If I had an insane NA 2.0l, I'd keep it NA for a reliable 150ish+hp track car.

For a street car? Throw it in, tune it, then throw on the turbo kit. Depending on your boost levels on the 1.6, I'd venture a guess that the 2.0l could be just as fast, you might like it NA.

How's it going Greer. I remember selling you something (injectors maybe) a long long time ago. I believe Greer used to work at PBC in VA when they were still a Miata shop. He's been around Miatas a while.

Might as well drop the 2.0L in there and then build the turbo around that later. I used to shop at PBC, when they were still a miata shop :)

I would keep the 2.0 and boost it too. The 4G63 is a bad little motor.

Crap, I've been made! Yep, thats me Frank (and the injectors are still in service, thanks), good to see some familiar faces around. I was at PBC back when it was miata only and we sold the Aerodyne turbo's as well as the transition to BEGI then AVO kits (more on that below).

The motor is a bored and stroked BP. The car will be a One Lap of America entry in a year or two (we took second place economy class in a Honda Fit a few years ago) so a week of hard racing and driving to/from events means I want to keep it somewhat friendly around tracks that I've never been on.

Details on the motor (limited):
85mm bore by 88mm stroke, 99+ head with 100+ hours of work in it by Replika Machinen (intake port floors raised 3mm and ceilings raised by the same to give direct flow at valves), Pauter rods, CP Pistons (going to be 10.5:1), ARP head studs, fidanza cam gears, etc etc. The motor was originally a OTC motor (for those that remember the series). Header is Keiths Tanners Targa miata header. For the intake manifold I'm in the middle of designing/building it but it will use a mustang throttle (60mm for now, can run 65mm later), I was considering going ITB but for initial run of getting this motor going I won't be. I'll post some photos of the sexy bits soon.

Currently I have a 1.6 AVO intercooled kit running 10+ psi (more in it, just never raised the boost) that runs great, but it will be coming out when the new motor is ready and will be for sale along with transmission/clutch/etc. That motor made 150HP and 135/140 torque at less than 8psi on a crappy fueling solution. I never did get it dynoed after the TEC-2 went in but I'll say it is much quicker on the same boost.

The motor/turbo kit/trans will be FS with everything needed to drop in/go except fuel and timing solution as I'm keeping that for the 2.0L.

-Greer

Sounds badass. any pics?

I will get some photos up of the motor soon but with 2 kids and a host of other projects I don't want to rush the photos and leaving everyone to wonder "what happened". I also need to pick Braineack's knowledge center on his manifold so that is another step yet ;). Especially since he lives nearby.

The car has been on sidelines since 2007 due to grad school, 2 kids, and life getting in the way. I will get it back on its tires, washed, and maybe photos then but I have some other work to do (replace some interior bits) first.

-Greer

Someone here followed what I did with my manifold pretty closely and ended up with good results. I sold mine off to pay for a new bottom end when mine let go on dyno due to a bad diff. Viperormiata has it now and needs to dyno with it!

https://www.miataturbo.net/dynos-timesheets-21/1-6-greddy-11psi-224hp-183tq-50916/

the new begi IM will be interesting if they ever finish it :)

His thread says see yours for measurements...got links?

My problem is the way the flanges I have are designed may not support a bent pipe to increase runner length without some weird pipe work. I have 5-6" now in my notional design (not inclusive of the head space which helps).

The flanges were custom made to support velocity stacks and to meet the head mods already done, so using them is in the best interest of HP.

-Greer

mine were 6", was hoping to get to 8-9".

I don't have any real measurements.

start from page four here: http://s46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...cpZZ4QQtppZZ20

pictorial build, I might have my drawing with rough numbers floating around somewhere.

There are members here that can get you flanges, I make intakes to suit if you cant do it yourself, I have a 99 flange here right now, it would be interesting to see the fit with your head work, also how the gasket would fit as well.

Where are you located?

Also, what are your power goals? I just dyno'd with a gutted intake manifold and power carried strong to 8000rpm. The NB intake capacity is around 2.5 liters when gutted and it has pretty long runners- I think 10-12 inches depending on the port. I think that I have a RM (outsourced to RM from FM) head on my motor too and response everywhere is much better than the stock head.

Any ideas on what turbo or kit you will use? I may be selling my setup...

@Gotpsi, I have flanges already done that are well executed and would love to use them. the flanges are setup to use o-rings to seal.

@Faeflora, I'm near DC still. Turbo is years out (4-6) so it isn't even on radar yet. The problem with using an OE manifold is that with a raised port floors in the head the OE manifold just won't line up well.

I posted the IM bits I had on hand at:
https://picasaweb.google.com/greichow/MotorBuild#

For the record, I have 3 throttle adapters, 3 intake flanges, and one head flange. The flanges between the runners is setup to slip over the intake flanges so we can interchange lengths on the dyno for optimum gains and then weld everything together. By using sleeves and hose clamps pipe length changes become relatively easy.

The plenum flange is setup to have velocity stacks bolt on/off which is great for setup but unless I build a 2 piece plenum, swapping them out won't be possible.

I was planning on using ross machine half round : http://www.rossmachineracing.com/halfround.html as cutting off the bottom will fit my flange almost exactly. My welder friend can weld everything but the crack of dawn and a broken heart so that is the good news, but simplifying his work is also part of not abusing his time.

-Greer

Thats some cool stuff.