HarryB

Noob here, Strato Blue 1.6 NB2 from Greece, NA for now... Been watching the forums for more than a year, decided it was time to give it a go!

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Harry, this isn't the thread where noobs should post. I know there may be a translation barrier but this is a joke thread. You should begin a new thread for your own introduction.

HarryB

Oh crap! Apologies for the **** up, off to a new thread!

whisper

My name is Sam, stop making fun of me

Rustrat

Hi, I am not Peter, definitely not a friend of Harry, and sure enough I did not post here to introduce myself, as this is a joke thread.

miatanoob02

hi I am 27 male from okc ok I have a 2002 miata all stock.
I have a msm motor and harness and ecu and a turbo kit
deen doing reseach about installing the msm in the nb

2010 WRX Limited

Oh jeez. I've been hanging around here too much. Now I'm starting to enjoy this

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Don't. Buy a real turbo setup and a real ECU and go from there. You will be much better off long term this way.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

^ What he said.

Also, you're posting in the wrong place.

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

Is this thing on?

Monk

iTrader: (3)

Is what on? The ban hammer?

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

I just wanted everyone to relive the glory of this thread.

Toby's Miata NA

Hello all,

Planning to buy a 96 Miata NA from Norway where im from. it got 235 000 km(146022miles) on it. is it dumb to start turboing/tune a car with such a milage?

This is my first post, im new to working on miatas as i used to drive a e46 bmw Thanks for all tips and respons

-Toby/Tobben

Christian Sterling Alex

Hi everyone my name is Chris. I'm looking at buying a 1999 Miata with a 1.8 l 5 speed. The head gasket is blown but has not been overheated. The game plan is to have the block decked and machine the head. I wanna do a boost build with this and it will be my first. I plan on doing the block and head first and doing a gasket and timing set will I have it ripped open. Then I wanna get my tuning skills down while it's na. How much am I looking at for rods and pistons. Im on a budget but I wanna build it right and have it be bullet proof reliable. I plan on running e85 as fuel. What are all the supporting mods I'll need to run like 20+ lbs of boost. I've read a little about the cooling system changes and oil coolers. Is there anything else. Water meth is also something I wanna throw in. And eventually a 100 shot of nos. Please guide me 🤓.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Nos

2 big ones

2010 WRX Limited

It sounds like you're off to a good start. Maybe just put it back together with a new head gasket and see how you like it first. Once you've done a few hundred hours of reading on here you'll be ready to ask some more questions Also, I made the same mistake as you and posted in this thread but it's like a noob trap. I suggest you lurk for a bit and get to know who the qualified people are and see how they do Miatas. Cheers

thumpetto007

iTrader: (15)

What kind of power levels are you looking for? Keep in mind the miata is a low weight, short wheelbase car. IIRC 250whp from a turbo is good enough to keep up with z06s at the racetrack. 250whp, unless you really abuse it on track can be done on a stock block, as long as it's tuned well. There are plenty of 300whp miatas that will easily kill you if you make a small mistake in the wrong spot. Really think about your abilities, and see if there are any local turbo miatas you can ridealong in to get a feel for them.

Dont bother with nitrous, it is dumb. With a small turbo TSE EFR 6258 kit you can easily hit 300whp which is more than enough to be a deadly handful when the boost comes on.

Unless you have hookups, and lots of skills (which no offense it doesn't sound like you are skilled) it will be cheapest in the long run to go with a complete built longblock from Trackspeed Engineering. They run 4500 dollars, and are rated at sustained 500whp. You dont even have to think about anything, just save up, get it, install it, and follow Andrews break in procedures exactly.

Also, there is a saying, i dont know who first said it, but... reliable, cheap, fast, pick two. You can have fast and reliable, which is expensive (10 thousand dollars in engine mods alone gets you 300whp reliably) fast and cheap (you can get 230whp for maybe 3000 if you are lucky, but it isn't reliable enough for the track, or driving it hard) or reliable and cheap (180ish for 3000 and that is still fun on stock engine)

Boost pressure doesn't really mean much. You can have a small turbo, with a lot of intake and exhaust restrictions at 14psi and make 250whp, or a large turbo with low restrictions at 14psi making 400whp. Psi is literally just pressure, thats what the "P" in psi stands for. Dont think in terms of psi, think in terms of what power level you want, then plan from there.

If you want reliability with any turbo setup, you'll need a coolant reroute and supermiata radiator, or the trackspeed 600 dollar radiator to not overheat. Even then, there are people only at 300whp that have to vent their hoods, build custom duct work, and still have overheating issues. Turbos waste around 100% of the engines power as heat, or something like that.

There are so many aspects of your post that SCREAM uneducated, unintelligent, and under researched on a broad automotive and physics scale. I'm not very educated, smart, or researched, but many people on this site will agree with me and say "learn first, stop being dumb, dont post on the forum, and come back when you learn how to type and use adequate sentence structure"

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

That could be stickied.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

2010 WRX Limited

That's very good info, way better than I could have said it. I especially like the "choose 2" part. So true.