Watch me Flail
Been a V-Dub guy for some time. After being introduced to motorsports and taking my mK6 Golf R off track and I to the woods, I found the coat benefit of the miata. Been driving a '91 vvt swapped car for a year now to autox and track events when I finally gave in to needing more power.
This is where the forum came in. The plan: I purchased a '01 vvt motor for dirt cheap with 200k miles. I plan to build the motor to be a 350hp quick spooling beast starting with a balanced forged bottom end, built head, diy turbo set up, upgraded fuel system, ignition, and a stand alone MS3 Pro ECM. Once put in the car will get a zf trans, race built suspension, and completely worked over body to eliminate the huge rust bucket that it is. I've read a lot so far and plan on reading, and reading, and reading before it is all done. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...33efdc8687.jpg |
Welcome to the forum. Sounds like you have the correct shopping list already. The BMW trans swap works well.
Where are you located? |
Welcome to mt.net. I can't tell if that is the Citadel Mall or Coliseum autox.
|
Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1516891)
Welcome to mt.net. I can't tell if that is the Citadel Mall or Coliseum autox.
|
Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1516889)
Welcome to the forum. Sounds like you have the correct shopping list already. The BMW trans swap works well.
Where are you located? To answer your question...Charleston area |
Can you weld?
Also I am local and may know a thing or two about turboing a miata. |
Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1516897)
Can you weld?
Also I am local and may know a thing or two about turboing a miata. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...dc948f3d30.jpg Rear Driver Qrt Panel https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4a3803d9b7.jpg I/s view of panel |
My recommendation is sell the rust bucket and start your build on a clean rust free chassis.
save your self months of aggravation and work and will probably be cheaper at the end. |
Originally Posted by borka
(Post 1516907)
My recommendation is sell the rust bucket and start your build on a clean rust free chassis.
save your self months of aggravation and work and will probably be cheaper at the end. |
Originally Posted by borka
(Post 1516907)
My recommendation is sell the rust bucket and start your build on a clean rust free chassis.
save your self months of aggravation and work and will probably be cheaper at the end. I understand it will be a ton easier and cheaper to find a better specimen but I'm doing this build for an experience. This build is to teach me new skills, make me hate my life, and in the end step back and say "F the world... I did this!" It's gonna be fantastic. |
Originally Posted by borka
(Post 1516907)
My recommendation is sell the rust bucket and start your build on a clean rust free chassis.
save your self months of aggravation and work and will probably be cheaper at the end. |
Originally Posted by Goingnowherefast
(Post 1516913)
3x
P.S. Most of that fender is gonna get chopped off and a fender flare added to fit a 275/30/15. |
:shrug:
Okay. I get it. |
Dont be that guy that has grand plans for the car, makes the build way too long and complicated, gives up mid way and parts out. I see this happening all the time.
want to learn body work?, buy a few rusted/dented body panels at the junk yard and go have fun. fixing miata rust is no fun. |
Originally Posted by borka
(Post 1516958)
Dont be that guy that has grand plans for the car, makes the build way too long and complicated, gives up mid way and parts out. I see this happening all the time.
want to learn body work?, buy a few rusted/dented body panels at the junk yard and go have fun. fixing miata rust is no fun. |
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