04 MSM mistakes have been made, what now...
 

I broke the car 4 years ago and finally got around to rebuilding and getting it back together. I tried to stay budget friendly but also not go trash. I ended up with the dreaded deatchwerks 700cc injectors. My tuning nightmare started about 2 weeks ago. As of now the car starts and runs cold decently. Once temp gets above 70° it starts searching. I had most of this worked out in the old tune on stock injectors but have not been able to get it to start and run for more than 5 seconds without playing tap dancer on the gas pedal on the old tune after changing the relevant injector data. I found a basic base map that gets the car to start and run but as soon as I start changing things to fix some of the issues outside of idle stability it goes back to just dying. I sent 18psi a message about tuning it a few days ago but the weather is changing quickly and I wont be able to drive it enough to even get a data log soon. Are the dead time values from deatchwerks just absolutely trash or am I just a mouth breather? Aside from replacing the injectors Im open to advice. Also, does anyone have any suggestions on who else to talk to about remote tuning?

Best bet is to attach a log and tune here, so the masses can criticize it.

I got it figured out for the moment. Trying to smooth the ve table out more. Going to drive it and get logs and get it to where i think it is roughly acceptable then ill post them. 4 years down and finally its back!

Here is the tune that sort of works as long as I dont have to come back to idle once warmed up. Have to pedal it to get it started still but cold stsrts it will sit and idle. Once its above like 150° it dies when you push the clutch in for longer than a shift. Computer was goving me trouble with getting a log unfortunately. Is there anything you see that stands out?

If I had to guess, which again is hard without a log, you're stalling due to not enough fuel or not enough air. Granted thats a mass generalization that could describe 99% of stalling issues, but there are two settings that stand out. One is your WUE (warm up enrichments). At 146.7 coolant temp, the MS is adding 16% fuel. By 163.3, it's not adding any. That's a pretty big jump, if you're actually hitting your target of 14.7afr at idle, you'd be closer to 17afr if you removed 16% fuel, so that's probably a good place to start.

Secondly, at 50 degrees air temp and below, your idle valve returns to 40%, and by the time you warm up, you're probably closer to 80 degrees and above, and it's returning to 30%. Again hard to tell without a log, but that might not be enough to idle. You set this by establishing a warm/hot idle and usually ramping up from there, but that's hard to do when you can't get it to idle.

I'd start by selecting the two hottest WUE cells and making them 116% instead of 100%. This is a cheat to add fuel globally, and eventually they need to be turned back down to 100%. But if it helps your stalling issue, you know it's fuel related. As you said in your PM to me, there is a LOT wrong with the tune, but there's some starting tips.

P.S. Can't leave you yet. Looks like you might be auto tuning (VE analyze live) the idle regions. This is a really bad idea and will never work. Make sure you lock out idle cells by setting min RPM to 1500, and min MAP to...above where you idle. Usually 30ish kpa.

Thank you so much for giving it a look. I am using VE autotune. I will remember to lock out all the idle region if I use it in the future. The VE table I had was so rich it was running afr's in the 8.0x region so I set autotune to easy and let it eat on the way home from work the other morning. The changes got me back into the 10s so it helped but still work to be done. I will go out and get a log shortly and get it posted up. Again, thank you... I have really been frustrated and I know I am running out of time with the weather here in Ohio...

Logs
 

I just went and got some logs, they are probably out of order. Was trying to log and name while driving. I think i got it acting up. Turned ego off so it wouldnt make a mess of things trying to fix my shyte tune.

Don't usually do this, but here's a quick fix. There's so much wrong, from dead time to idle advance settings, there's no point in even taking logs with such a shit tune. I flew through some changes, try a log now.

Thank you so much man. Ill go out and load the tune and start it up and let it log. I should be able to get it to hot idle before I get called back in to fix something at work. One of the perks and downfalls of being a maintenance tech at a glass tempering facility. Freedom until things go bad...

Freebie logs
 

I took a couple longer logs of the warmup and smacked the throttle a few times to show how well it recovered going back into idle state. Then drove it around the lot at work to simulate stop and go driving and took another log. Honestly this is the best the car has held idle since i put the ecu in it in 2019. I figured changing the intake and the flywheel and injectors and a full rebuild would take me a while to get it figured out but as you saw from the tune, I wasnt even close. I had been trying to follow youtube videos but Im pretty sure I just made it worse every time I touched it. Again, thank you for the help. You have some serious wizardry with this stuff!

Idles still oscillating a bit too much for my liking. Seems to be EGO related, so I changed it to PID, which allows it to make less than 1% changes. Might help, might make it worse, gotta see a log first. What are you injectors again? I'm guessing dead times or size is set wrong, since you're idling around 70 VE. Your dead time curve is usually always "curve 1", but you had "curve 2" selected, and it had 91% at 14v, where it's almost always 100%, so I changed it to curve 1, but I have no idea if that's correct for your injectors. Anyways, still some issues, but glad it's better.

Im running those douchewerks 700cc turds unfortunately. The dead times I was able to dig up for them were so far off the car wouldnt even start so I pulled some bosch ev14 700cc injector dead times in and it started and ran so I am 100% sure they are in fact wrong. I think the data sheet said 0.767 at 43.5psi was dead time but Im seeing 58psi on the returnless. Also running a fidanza flywheel so that probably doesnt help with maintaining idle. Once warmed up the idle is rock solid as of the drive tonight. It is running rich about 100kpa, saw 9.3 on the afr tonight under full boost uphill at like 4500rpm. I didnt even plug the laptop in tonight but I can log the drive home. What size logs do you prefer time wise?