Stranded

Hello Ladies and Gents,

I am really desperate at this time. I have been searching all the forums for a resolution. I followed the installation guide but the only one I couldn't do was set the timing because the vehicle cranks, starts then die instantly.I am not going to be tuning my vehicle I just want it to start and drive so I can get it tuned professionally. There is currently no shop willing to tune imports in my area so I have to drive far. I am trying to save 400 dollar on towing fees if possible. If anyone can chime in and help a novice out that would be awesome. Even better if anyone who has a similar build can share their map. I know not every two car is the same but I just need it to get to the shop. Anyways here is my build if I don't list a part that means its stock.
Ecu-Ms3pnp pro plug and play from Diyautotune
Fuel inj- Bosch ev14 650cc
Ign- Fab9 Cop
Fuel rail-Custom dual feed
Turbo kit- Begi gt28r
BOV- Turbo smart bypass valve w/ Turbo smart manual boost controller
Engine- 8.258 cpr w/ JE pistons and rod(Professional built)
Clutch- FM happy meal level 2 with 10.3lb fly
O2- Wideband
Maf- removed using map sensor in MS
Deleted charcoal canister (if it means anything)

airbrush1

Did you happen to do all these mods at once and are having trouble starting the car for the very first time? Was it running previously minus the mspnp and injectors?

airbrush1

You have a bees nest of variables that make it hard to help diagnose a no start condition over the internet, which is why you most likely haven't received a response to your question. We need an idea of how it last ran and in what modified condition it was in at the time, your issue could very easily be any number of mechanical, electrical, or tuning issues. That said, if everything was running fine prior to the ms and injector install, I'd imagine starting with properly scaling for your injector size would help if you haven't done that yet (directions in the manual). If you're working from the supplied basemap it's expecting MUCH smaller injectors

welcome btw, make an intro thread, don't get discouraged, best of luck,

Lokiel

Since your car's an NB, set IgnitionSettings->IgnitionOptions/WheelDecoder->IgnitionOptions/WheelDecoder:TriggerAngle/Offset(deg) to 5.5

- unless you've got some unusual modz, 5.5deg is pretty much standard for NBs.

Post your map if you want help because otherwise we're taking wild guesses as to what you need to do.

Stranded

I'll try that when I get home lokiel. Also when I have the narrow band and the maf with stock ecu it will run but very rough I don't think it will make it on a 2hr drive

curly

iTrader: (25)

Good job installing a bunch of parts. Now you need to tune it.

Your car runs on the stock ecu and injectors that are 265% bigger than stock roughly because it is getting...265% of the fuel it's supposed to get. But that's a hint, cars can run a little easier when rich vs lean. Yours is most likely dying because it is lean.

Open your tune, click file, save as, and label it something like "original tune" or something like that, so you can easily go back. Then open your fuel table, select everything, press shift-8, type 1.1, then press enter, burn.

This will multiply your fuel table by 1.1, aka it will add 10%. Should help. If not, try again (another 10%). Once your car is warm, you'll want to subtract or add 2-3% until you're idling around a 14.5-.7 air fuel ratio. If you end up taking a lot of fuel back out, it'll probably start and die when it's cold, indicating that your fuel table is ok, but your WUE or ASE aren't high enough. Hopefully this will be enough to get you going.

Stranded

So it seems like when the outside temp is at 40-50F the vehicle starts then die. Today it was a good 70F after increasing the fuel table by 2.2 The car started and idled at 1100 at 12.2:1. I started decressing the fuel till it started to idle at 14.4-14.7:1. Once it warmed up pass Cold on the temp gauge. The AFR flux from 14.7:1 to 16:1 then as it got warmer it stalls. Thanks to Curly I have made progress the car starts and turns over! I posted my novice map if anyone can give me some more help it will be well appreciated.

curly

iTrader: (25)

So warm up enrichments is a percentage of your fuel table. At zero F it can be as high as 150%, which would be the same as multiplying your entire table by 1.5.

You're most likely idling at a nice 12.2:1 because it's using warmup enrichments (WUE) to compensate for a fuel table that's too lean. Once it tapers off (should be 100%) when the cars warm, it's going lean and dying. Keep adding fuel to the fuel table until it'll run when warm, then at some point when the fuel table is 100% tuned (we're doing incredibly basic 5-10% changes across the board, not tuning), you'll want to start the car and adjust WUE at every temperature until it idles a little rich when stone cold (12:1), and tapers down along with your WUE % to your 14.7 idle afr.

Hope this helps.

Stranded

I have gotten the vehicle to run till operating temperature. But when it gets to operating temp it dies then it continue to start and die. if i keep cranking it there is a loud back fire in the exhaust. I tried messing with the WUE but I dont seem to get it.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Warm up enrichment has nothing to do with it once it's warmed up. If it doesn't run when it's warm then you need to adjust your idle settings. If it goes lean when it's dying then add fuel. If it goes Rich when it's dying then remove fuel from your idle cells. It's not that difficult.

Stranded

This might be a newbie question but which part of the idle setting do I need to play with? Do I adjust it up or down?

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Does your wideband read rich or lean when the car is dying? This tells you whether or not you need to adjust your idle cells up or down on your ve table.

You do have a wideband don't you?

I also assume you are looking at your ve table while the car is running so that you see which cells are active at the time. Those cells that are active at the time are the ones you will want to adjust if your car is not running correctly. Again, you will need to look at your wideband and determine whether or not you are rich or lean.

Stranded

Yes I have a wide band. When it dies it starts to flux from 14:1 to 16:1 then it dies lean. There are different options in the idle function. Which one should I be adjusting?

curly

iTrader: (25)

Make sure idle ve is off, then you want to be adjusting your fuel table, where ever the blue dot is when you're idling