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-   -   1.6 MS3x wont idle (https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquirt-18/1-6-ms3x-wont-idle-98462/)

acey 11-11-2018 10:30 PM

I did mention above that those tables were done very sloppy and crude. If if I knew what I was doing I wouldn’t be posting here lol.

Great meme

SpartanSV 11-11-2018 10:46 PM


Originally Posted by acey (Post 1510604)
I did mention above that those tables were done very sloppy and crude. If if I knew what I was doing I wouldn’t be posting here lol.

Great meme

It's not that they're sloppy and crude it's that they show you are just changing things without knowing what they do or what they should be set to. Those screen shots contradict your statement about randomly changing shit.

Do what I said to do before. Don't touch the ignition table at all. Add fuel to the idle ve table by highlighting all of the cells and clicking the scale button. That will allow you to add a percentage of fuel to all of the cells and get you close to what you need.

acey 11-13-2018 05:51 PM

9 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by SpartanSV (Post 1510605)
Do what I said to do before. Don't touch the ignition table at all. Add fuel to the idle ve table by highlighting all of the cells and clicking the scale button. That will allow you to add a percentage of fuel to all of the cells and get you close to what you need.

I have returned. Reloaded the basemap and scaled the idle ve table up in increments of 5% up until I got to 120%. The car would not stay running with any lower value. Which throws me off a bit since it idles rich or doesn't idle at all. Anyway that seemed to help a lot, idled around 12afr and made the rpm isolation a lot less noticeable. Once the car came up to temp I rolled into the throttle (the car is up on jack stands) and it leaned out immediately, then the rpm oscillation came and then it died. I felt much better about how the car was idling now, kicking myself a bit for not doing this in the first place. So after that I figured I should just try scaling up the main fuel table. I added 120% there also and started the car. It would be very unstable for a few seconds and then lean out and die. I then I reloaded the original base map fuel table and tried again... same issue.

My takeaway from this being that the car will start fairly normal and idle on a cold start. But on a warm start will not stay running. Would raising the after start enrichment at the temperature I was having issues starting it at aid this problem? I figure I shouldn't mess with the basemap very much since it got me flamed last time. The outside temp today was 26, will this map would need some tweaking for the colder temperatures? I have again posted my map. And a log of the successful cold start I had followed by the warm start where the car died.

edit*** upon some further reading It seems that I have nearly twice the spark advance that some others on the form have. I have 25 degrees at 1200. I don't really know what I'm talking about but this seems wrong. Can someone confirm this?

SpartanSV 11-13-2018 09:02 PM

Ignition advance is doing what it's suppose to. ASE and WUE will probably need some tweaking especially at that temp but they are a percentage of your VE table so you can't tune them properly until you tune your VE table. I would get it fully warmed up and dial in idle ve and your main ve. Add more fuel if you have to.

acey 11-24-2018 03:46 PM

6 Attachment(s)
Hello, I am still facing issues getting my car all squared away :vash:

Since my last post I have done tweaking to the VE table. To keep the car running I had to add roughly 30% more fuel than the trubokitty 1.6 basemap initially had. Once the car idled decent I drove around my neighborhood using VEAL. The problem I am currently having that the car will not get past 2600 rpm. It's almost like its hitting some sort of limiter. I temporarily added alot of fuel to the cells around 2500rpm and it enriched the afrs alot but did not fix my issue.

Here is my current tune and log.


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