1200rpm cutt off
 

Well I got my car idling around 850rpms nicely.

Problem is trying to tune the VE fuel table any time I get close to 1200 my tach dips quickly, it won't let me go above it, happens slowly or if I try to push the pedal in quickly, what I've heard so far is its because of the VE table. I'm wondering if anyone seen anything like that before that it maybe wiring, signal problems?

I'l upload the log of the drop off in a minute with the msq

Any thoughts thanks

logs and msq tune

If you see any weird settings let me know.

AEM wideband linear

This is a weird one. I'm having a dickens of a time figuring out the log without a TPS reading. Can't tell what's causing what...

AFRs look reasonable. Spark angle isn't doing anything weird.

CLT reading is really strange. Was the engine actually running at 230-250°F? IAT looks damn high, too. 150° according to the log.

Methinks someone hasn't calibrated their sensors.

I'd suggest you disable Coolant-Corrected Air Density. See if that does anything useful.

I was tuning while the engine was at running temp, idling, fan was on and temp guage on my dash was at running temp like normal,
hmmm

I have the maf still in using the maf for the stock IAT sensor, and the exhaust manifold cover is not on it currently, maybe I should put it back on to lower the air temps going into the intake, I have that first part of the intake remove the curls upwards to the fender area.

is the small jumps in clt and iat because of wiring possibily?

Should I use shielded wire instead?

Also I disabled mapdot by throwing 2540 into the threshold so I could tune the tables, atleast thats what I got from the ms extras manual for tuning

I downloaded the hires 10g code and used easytherm to put both sensor as rx7 coolant \ rx7 iat with a bias of "Standalone: Bias will be 2490 for each"

hmm maybe I have the wrong bias for the stock IAT sensor

yo 1.6l guys using MS with stock parts still whats your max reading you get on AIT and CLT sensors, stock miata sensors.

215°F is the max reading in MS-1.

did you copy the .inc files into the correct TS or MT folder?

braineack is 2490 bias for both rx7 iat and clt sensor on a standalone setup the correct bias?

I'm back and I think I may have an better idea, I think its somehow related to coolant\air correction.

I reflashed with MSPNP 90-93 with afm to get the correct sensor data into my MS

Problem is I noticed in the coolant air correction screen that its reading IAT at the top right
220F+.

I did see peak of 155f in tuner studio for the IAT guage, I'm gonna throw the intake pipe that goes the fender and the exhaust header cover back on and see what happens

if its still doing same thing, I'm gonna buy a GM IAT mount it on one of the plastic pipes near the tb and test.

After getting together with some friends, I believe to found what maybe causing the problem.

Spark

When reving up the rpms on the car dash drop alot more then compared to tuner studio rpms, also if you wot the car the rpm drop to 0 and with the timing gun hooked up, spark is erratic

Also the iginitor gets super hot.

Whats yall dwell settings for stock 1.6 setup, 5ms running? anyone running less?

Is the miata's ignitor a smart dwell unit?
If yes why do we use dwell control instead of fixed dwell?

Nope.

Sounds like you have your spark output set backwards. The ignitor is likely damaged.

Still works fine with the stock ECU, Thats how I can still get around in my car.
Revs up fine.


What do you mean by spark output backwards? A and B spark outputs switched around?

Basic setup -> Ignition options -> Spark output. Change that and try again to see if the ignitor still gets hot.

Dimitris

no such menu choice, this is MS1

spark > spark settings

you guys refering to spark output inverted yes\no?

Currently its on Yes because I just did Joes spark mod and still the same 2500~rpm drop out.

http://www.diyautotune.com/images/ca...ark_settin.gif

could it simply be your fuel map going 30% leaner at 2500RPM from the 1800RPM column?

Heres a log of the newest trial run with joes spark mod and ve tuned up near 2500 to make sure it wasn't fuel ve table causing it.

tune included

wideband = aem linear

wondering about the near 5ms idle PW.

are you on stock coils? your running dwell is way too low.

should be 5ms running and a discharge period of closer to .7ms to 1ms. it probably cant charge enough to make spark when you get above 2000rpm. plus your fueling is completely whack.

I threw the timing light on it to verify timing was correct and in sync.

When you hit that limit the timing light dies out like the tachometer on the car's dash and is erratic.

Yes stock coils

at 5ms I can only go up to 1300rpm~ before spark breakup

if its .7 to 1ms discharge why does diy have .5ms

Anyways I'll try 1ms and see what happens

Can anyone tell me what the yellow wire and resisitor is for on this board?
http://diyautotune.com/images/cartec...utput_mods.jpg
Thanks

It's for a pullup on the CKP signal.

Signal looks like this on a oscope at lower rpms
_-_----_-_----_-_---- etc

once you get past say aroudn 2500
it goes like this

___----___----___----___----

Well an update

With the oscope, going over it more and testing newer non hires firmware 029y4

I noticed if I set to 5ms which leads me to hitting out at a max of 1300 rpms before it has the odd problem
Spark inversion set to yes

IF I set spark inverted to no

It registers on the oscope as it would if above 1300 rpms on yes
But once over 1300 rpms on no it registers like it would below 1300 rpms on yes

Any thoughts on this odd problem?

Changing running dwell seems to alter where this point is at, but it also alters how much gets to the ignitor, tried 1ms but car wouldn't work at that, 1.5ms was the lowest. Even that I hear is to low for the miata iginitor. Something sounds wrong.

Now I admit I'm not the sharpest at reading oscope outputs, first one to use but this seems to me what is happening.

Back with more info

More interesting information off the oscope, setting the crank trigger settings as a 4+1 instead of the stock miata 4+2 makes the output from the spark out work fine, as rpm increases the trigger events start happening closer together, yet it doesn't change how the output is showing at any certain point.

I used settings from this page http://msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=27543

so far it seems to only do it with this miata CAS setup and all firmware versions I've tried so far

029q 029y4 and newest hi res. I think its possibily a software problem, some overflow\stack overflow that cuasing the spill over.

ok so I put it back to stock miata settings cept now I changed it to dual dizzy = yes, and the output looks like it should.

It sounds as if you may have something wrong with the second trigger input and it's filtering out the shorter pulse on the second trigger. I wouldn't expect a code bug for the simple reason that it hasn't surfaced on other installations. Scoping the second trigger input may shed more light on the issue.

Did you scope the second trigger with the MS on the car? It sounds to me like the signal there is getting a bit wonky.

Matt not yet because the car was in process of getting the diff changed out. I will probably have it done within a couple days.
What should the 2nd trigger output look like, so I know what to compare what I see to it.

It should be a short-long-short-long pulse train, one short and one long pulse every rotation of the CAS. Check both the signal right at the CAS and at the input to the processor - it almost sounds like you're losing the shorter pulse.

Back when I had the MS1 and a '96 CAS on my 2002 engine:

http://users.forthnet.gr/ath/twikicore/cas_extra_90.jpg

Dimitris

well lets say I was losing the shorter pulse which I will check, wouldn't that be steady and not change based on running dwell. I'm still gonna check it though

thanks for the pic.

If you are losing the shorter pulse, you'd need to make sure the resistor (or the capacitor) is not too large.

riddle me this
One of my spark outputs at idle looks like its full 5v across the scope

I attached the oscope to the MS while running at idle
one of the spark outputs looks normal _-___-___-___etc
The bad one just looks like this ---------- full on 5 volt with small up angles at certain points of firing. Thoughts?

You can get a 4 cylinder to run on 2 cylinders, smell like gas and have good AFRs at idle

Anyone have an idea why I'm seeing full on 5v right off spark A pin on the cpu but spark B is ok?
Thanks
Justin

Soldering short somewhere?

I figured if that was the case it would show correct off the cpu pin but not at the db37 connector area

edit:

Also does anyone know if MS1 spark outputs have to be setup in order
spark A and spark B
I can't seem to get Spark B and Spark C instead to work with the correct mods to that area

I went in and set trigger position c to 2 and trigger posistion a to 0 with trigger position b still at 1

hmm I guess trigger position refers to something else, will test again in a minute.

nevermind, wastedspark 4 cylinder MS1extras has to be spark a and spark b output. Ain't that effing great.

What did you find when you scoped the CMP input at processor pin 11? The spark outputs get confused if the CMP input acts up.

output is correct

at idle both show correct outputs

_-___-___-___-etc

and

_---___-___---___-__etc

What I noticed is one of the spark outputs is not working at all

so what I've been running on is 2 cylinders.

one is correct _-__-__-__etc
the other is ------- full on 5v out from the cpu pin to the db 37 pins

What If ound out is both circuits work correctly, but it seems whichever is hooked onto pin 36 goes high 5v. Makes me wonder if my db37 connector is at fault. I'm gonna bypass the connector and connect it at the harness I built to test.