1990 1.8 MP62 MS2 Miata - Summer Goal...Tune it, Drive it, Smog it, EV14 it.
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Started working on my Miata again this last weekend. Haven't touched it in a year. New Job, live in the Bay now...haven't been on the forums in awhile.
It's a 1990, 1.8, NB head, NA manifold, MP62, Track Dog intercooler....running an older Rev MS2. It's got a couple problems and I'm in over my head. My goal is to tune it, and get it to pass tailpipe emissions as it is. Need to address whatever problems it has, then I'll probably upgrade to EV14s and tune again. It started right up after sitting a year or more. Last time got a lot straightened out with during a a tuning session with Vlad (18PSI) and a thread on this form. A couple problems still remain.
Does anyone know any shops in the Sacramento or Bay Area that tune? Vlad, if we can figure the bouncing AFRs out here, I may want another tuning session. Attached is my current tune ripped from the ECU this weekend, and the tune after Vlad worked on it, just in case I changed something stupid. I didn't have the tune file or even tunerstudio on my computer when I connected, so I created a brand new project. Also attached as a data log from a short drive. Thanks, Thanks and Thanks! |
Originally Posted by Mysticle31
(Post 1543048)
It's a 1990, 1.8, NB head, NA manifold, MP62, Track Dog intercooler....running an older Rev MS2.
Are you referring to the intake manifold? |
Originally Posted by SpartanSV
(Post 1543055)
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Are you referring to the intake manifold? |
boncy wideband: you're talking about on the gauge right?
Bad ground(s) and/or bad signals and/or bad wiring. That may also be the fuel pump culprit |
Yes, Intake Manifold. I've got a NB head with an NA manifold. Welded a piece of bar stock to the bottom, ported it, and surfaced it.
I'll check the grounds. As I recall when I switched the LC1 to the UEGO I redid the grounds. Where can I begin to look at bad signals? I'm not running an actual physical AF Ratio gauge, it's the one in TunerStudio that bounces around. This bounce looks/feels a little different than the bounce I've seen from people with bad grounds. I'm going up to the car this weekend, will check it out and rewire it again. |
you can also decrease sensitivity in TS if you're sure its not the grounds
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Checked it out this weekend. I have two ground options for the wideband, one to the factory ground for the ECU that the MS2 uses, and another to the bolts for the factory ECU kick panel/mount. I tried both, same bouncy AFR. I also tried playing with the Lambda Averaging Lag Factor. It was at 65, changed it to 20. No real effect on the bounciness, maybe it's less maybe not.
Still thinking this might be grounds? Next weekend I'll come back and run a new 14g ground straight from the battery to the wideband (and maybe MS2 also), and I'll check the battery to chassis ground, and engine ground too for fun. Boost on :) |
turn off ego correction. if it stop bouncing and pegs lean, you got an exhaust leak
in this log you can clearly see that when ego corr is at 100 the car is lean, then overcorrects, then starts bouncing back and forth |
Originally Posted by Mysticle31
(Post 1544413)
Still thinking this might be grounds? Next weekend I'll come back and run a new 14g ground straight from the battery to the wideband (and maybe MS2 also), and I'll check the battery to chassis ground, and engine ground too for fun.
From what I understand none of your electrical components should ever be grounded directly to your engine battery. The voltage drop across the battery ground causes a lot of problems for sensors. To get the tach working you need to go into your MS2 and wire the pinout that you want to use as your tach singal from the board itself. Happy boosting. |
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