to clarify: we ran the signal wire from OEM baro sensor to the MS3. it's powered/grounded

......then realized the MS3 isn't even wired up for baro input.

......then we realized like half the inputs/outputs on the provided instructions are not actually wired up, and apparently you need to remove the DB37, and solder them in yourself.

.......then OP attempted to do that. then he melted the pin trying to do it.

and that's where we ended.

he really needs BARO correction. the car ran pretty darn good here in 100kpa Sacramento and went berserk traveling to 8k elevation where OP lives

We can do that. The latest batch of MS3 boards has optional onboard baro.

I'm confused by this thread.
Barometric correction with a second pressure sensor is probably the easiest mod to make in any MS.
I didn't even see the need for a filter circuit after measuring mine. Literally: power/ground/signal out. Wire signal out to any of the spare analog in pins on the microcontroller. There's a couple of settings to change (if you use the same sensor are your map sensor) I believe inside tuner studio. If you use a different sensor you'll need to update its calibration info.

If the solder part is really getting you down, buy a spare db37 and practice. It's a skill you'll use again and is worth the time.

You can use these diyautotune's mapdaddy instructions for a great reference:
https://www.diyautotune.com/product/...3edbf9341d9f0a

I drive a 5kft differential regularly and have no issues.

.....everyone says "its so super duper easy". and yet here we are

Would you like advice for soldering db-xx pins? I do them in two steps, tin the wire, tin the very front of the DB pocket. Insert the tinned wire into the pocket at an angle, pressure against the little solder blob you just made at the front of the pocket.

Then, just apply some heat, it'll fall into place and fill solid with a tiny dab of solder. As long as you have thin solder and a fine iron tip you shouldn't have much trouble. The pins are cased in plastic, so they will melt if you aren't quick.

This is the "real" way to do it...
AeroElectric Connection - Soldering D-Sub Connectors

There are many other issues with connectivity and the burn not taking, settings changing... etc

I PM'd Braineack but I haven't got a reply yet, I might try him next for a new setup.

Please be more specific on this one. In the 2000++ Megasquirt ECUs I've sold so far, I've never seen this.

OP has called me about this before: like 5 times now he changes baro correction in general settings to "none", burns, disconnects the laptop, connects it later and it's on "use initial settings"

But really, the biggest "connectivity" issue so far is the wideband output from CAN device freezing every now and then, and needing to restart the car to get it to work again.

For the CAN module, there are two blue LEDs inside the module (CAN and SERIAL). Both blink when there's activity on the CAN bus and when the module receives valid serial data from the wideband.

Can you please let me know if either one stops blinking when the issue happens?

tried to look around the can module for lights, but the way its mounted, I'd need to remove the ecu and fiddle around for a while just to get to it.


In other news... DATALOGGING DOESN'T WORK.

I fucking give up.

I have 8 different log files that should have captured 8 of the biggest problems I'm having with the MS, and FUCKING NOTHING.

No data is saved in the datalog files. They are all 5Kb file sizes.

I just want the car to run well all the time. nothing fancy.

Oh well.

check to make sure TS is set to your project name and not CAN.

Maybe that's what it's logging? the CAN device?

I dunno, just guessing. It just stopped logging all of a sudden.

Remove the CAN module ini file, I suspect this is a TunerStudio issue.

I was able to get one log, I started logging after the A/F gauge lost connection with Megasquirt...


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1459015963

I don't know how to import the other stuff on the log, I hope this helps.

simple

1) click "go advanced" on the post
2) scroll down and click "manage attachments"
3) attach the complete log

it allows attaching .msl files so you should be able to do it

Ok, I'll try that

Rev, you are a patient man.

thumpetto, chill out. This is the kind of stuff you sign up for when modifying a car to this extent. Learn how to solder.

Also, in my opinion every aftermarket ecu install that will be using speed density based fueling should use an external MAP sensor mounted as close to the engine as possible with the shortest vacuum hose possible. I have done some back-to-back logging on my G35 w/Haltech using both the internal MAP sensor and a GM 3 bar and there is a measurable and significant difference in latency. There was also a surprising difference in throttle response. So if I were you, I would install an external MAP and use the onboard MAP sensor in the MS3 for the baro correction.

FWIW, I have a Rev built MS3 basic with AEM UEGO and CAN Wideband module and I have not experienced any of the issues you are having.

Finally, if you are having issues with the CAN Wideband module just wire up the analog output from the AEM to the MS and you can use that and your car will run just fine until you figure out your CAN issues. Then you can just switch back to using CAN and leave the analog hooked up as a fallback. This is exactly what I have done. You really don't NEED a CAN Wideband interface - many tuners have tuned many cars for many years using "regular" analog wideband outputs. Just make sure you have a good solid ground for the AEM UEGO that is shared with the MS3 ground, ideally.

mx592,

I've also had multiple Rev built units, and some were fine and some were not, what's your point? OP is having legitimate issues, and I verified that they are issues.

He bought a pnp unit specifically to avoid issues with building/soldering. His MS3, CAN, and wideband came pre-soldered together. Telling him to "learn to solder" is not helping. Those that know how, build their own units. those that don't, buy PNP units.

IF you're not gonna be helpful, get out of this thread.

I mean, yes, part of my issues could have been rectified by knowing how to solder more than just wire to wire, but I have many other issues.

I'm taking another chance with Rev, since IF it is built properly, it's the superior product. Dual baros, flex fuel...

Maybe second time is a charm?