94 DIYPNP V1.5B Questions about AC
 

I have read brain's right up found here

Engine Management Megasquirt DIYPNP "How-To" - Step-By-Step Instructions - Miata Forumz - Mazda Miata Chat Forums

On page 3 he says how to wire for the gslender mod.

I wanted to verify that I can use the same wiring setup for my 94 as what brain stated.


I understand most of gslenders mod guide but I am confused with his wording regarding wiring.

1Q > Input1 IN > Input1 OUT > PE1

PA0 > Relay 1 IN > Relay 1 Out > 1J&4S
or
ALED > 1J&4S
or
WLED > 1J&4S


really depends how it's wired up right now.

Right now it is wired 1q>input 1 in>input 1 out> 1J

If I go 1Q to Input 1 IN, The input 1 OUT to PE1.
Then from PAO to 1J.

Problem is PAO is already being used for boost control.

Attached is a picture

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1375712445

sorry for the retarded pic im out in the sticks today on an old ass computer and dial up internet (in laws)

That looks like I built it!

move boost to pt7 and do the rest as outlined.


also, you can't go directly from PA0 to 1J, it has to go through the relay circuit first, or through WLED or ALED instead of PA0.


it should end up looking like this:

It is one of yours. I am the third owner I believe. I will try it out and come back with results. I finally got my turbo installed this weekend and COPS. So im official.

What I have so far. When you say 1j and 4s. I notice there are a lot of them so I just jumped Relay 1 out to 1j where input out was previous wired too. Im not sure if thats correct but heres another picture.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1375717843

looks good, they are probably jumper elsewhere on the board.

Worked Perfectly! Thank you very much for all the help and quick responses.

I have hit one little speed bump and that is now my ac fan(on the radiator) will not kick on.

you need to make sure 1J and 4S are connected together.

1J is the a/c compressor and 4S is the a/c fan. You want to tie them together so that the MS turns on the fan with the compressor.

Oh ok. Well it looks like the are connected on other terminals. Before the mod the were both tuning on together.

i dunno then. if the compressor is coming on, so should the fan then...

Well I guess I could just hard wire it to a switch. Wouldnt that work? I was thinking of hard wiring the fans to switches anyways.

NO! why?! no! HISSSSSS booooo

My compressor quit kicking on. So I think both of my relays took a crap on me. I took them out and jumped them and sure enough the fan kicked on and so did the compressor. I would normal jump to conclusions and blame it on the ms but I noticed this issue the other day when I was driving the ac fan would turn off and the temp went up and shortly after the compressor would cut off. After a while they would both kick on and go back to normal. his was before I even installed the ms. So long story short I think I just need relays.

So the relays were not the problem. So I could just put the wiring back the way it was and just jumper wled to 1j&4s?

do you have r14 installed? you need to install a 2.2K resistor in r14, and might as well pop one in the input 2 circuit and run 1V to Input 2 IN, and input 2 OUT to FLEX and use that for launch control.

I dont have any resistors at the moment and radioshack is and hour from where im at right now. However after reading gslenders mod guide again comparing it to the pic you posted did you really mean


1Q > Relay IN > Relay OUT > PE1

PA0 > Input 1 IN > Input 1 Out > 1J&4S

come on bro, dont fuck with me.

What are you talking about man? Im serious right now I fried my last ms and im not about to do it again. Please help me out. For real

my picture was to be used as illustrative purposes only.

r14 is not installed, it needs to be installed now. I didn't notice that before.

Ok so I want to make sure I got this straight. Install 2.2k resistor on r14.

Jumper

1J&4s>Input 1 OUT
Input 1 IN> PA0
PE1>Relay 1 IN
Relay 1 OUT> 1Q

Is this correct?

no, that's not correct.

I'll repeat myself:

1Q > Input1 IN
Input1 OUT > PE1
PA0 > Relay 1 IN
Relay 1 Out > 1J&4S

Hey braineack, did you mean:

1Q > Relay1 IN
Relay1 OUT > PE1
PA0 > Input 1 IN
Input 1 Out > 1J&4S

????

no, i did not. i usually don't put outputs on input circuits. However, i do tend to put outputs on relays and inputs on inputs.

So the picture of how I wired it is fine just add the resistor?

my picture is probably wrong. go by my werds.


but yeah. when it's wired to activate the a/c without the MS in the mix, r14 is removed. Since you're sending it back to the ECU first now, you need that pull up.

I'm not exactly sure what circuit DIY used for the inputs, but I'm pretty sure that's a pull-up. you could steal one from an unused circuit on the board if you are desperate. I'm pretty sure r14 is 2.2K, but a 1K might work... I'd need to see pics of the top of the board to see what resistors might be unused and able to work. Probably there's a 2.2K reistor on the high side driver circuit that you aren't using.

How about I pull r 38. It is part of the nitrous driver and I don't like nitrous. the resistor is colored red red red gold and to my knowledge that would be an ideal 2.2 k candidate.

i think that's the one im talking about.

Ok so I'm going to move the r38 2.2k to r14 and leave my jumper the way I have them and I should be good to go plug into the car and start without frying anything?

that's the plan.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1375979277

Here's what I got I removed r38 and moved it r14. Just wanted to post a pic for reference.

while you are in there, move the two wires going to 4C and 4D to SG from GND

Ok will this add any other features.

it will move the sensor grounds to the sensor ground plane.

Car starts and runs like shit now with a bouncing idle before it dies. Where do I go from here.

Ok accidentally forgot to plug the map in my bad but still no AC engagement.

Edit

Msq found here

https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...-my-msq-74292/

and you've made sure to setup the software for the correct inputs (PE1) and outputs (PA0).

Got it to kick on now I guess I need to play with the idle and closed loop settings.

This is such a pain in the ass. Do I have to use Closed Loop because PWM Warm up is easy and I suck at closed loop.

i mean sounds like a personal problem...

I wish some one could spoon feed me this stuff. I figured by now there would be a good write up. BAAAAHhhh! I live on the suns face and all I want is some damn turbo and ac.

I just read a how to on how to set up CL and got that shit workin. :bigtu:: Obviously CL loop is key. Thanks for all your help with the wiring brain. I'm sure you are tired of listening to my dumbass.

Scotty, it seems like I am at a stage similar to where you were when you started this thread.

My questions about GSLender is on the software side. I'm at the stage where I am flashing the DIYPNP.

GSLENDER says to follow the MS firmware files but as the GSLENDER file is based on MS2/Extra 3.2.1, should I download the 3.3 or 3.2.1 file from msextra?

How did you do your first flash?

Just flash it with the firmware that's given in the download package. Should be with in the gslender post on msextra. Your going to need to replace some files but it should be in the directions. I am using the current ms firmware and the new tuner studio beta for WUE auto tune. I no longer have ac(car is a track car now). I am away from my computer for the holidays but I can go over more details when I get back.

you simply flash the glsender firmware. it's its own firmware that's based on 3.2.1, but he goes through and adds/subtracts code in it.

Thank you Brain