Afm Delete Mspnp
 

So i ATTEMPTED to delete my AFM tonight..got everything hooked up as per the MSPNP directions, wont start...reload the w/ AFM firmware and try to put everything back the way it was..wont start....she's cranking but that's all shell do...any advice?

Did you unplug your ignitors while you were flashing the firmware to the 'NO AFM' firmware and then leave it unplugged until you reloaded your base map?

Did you remember to plug them back in afterwards?

yep

Are you getting spark?

doesnt seem like i am..i did realize that when i went into the spark menu...my trigger angel addition is now zero and trigger angle is 60..i tried changing those back to +22.5 and 65 and neither of them made a difference.

make trigger angle 10, try than, it'll make your timing 10 deg.

You could do the old 'screwdriver in the plug wire boot held close to the valve cover' trick. Just make sure to hold the screwdriver by the insulated handle so you don't get shocked if it is sparking. Have someone turn it over while you hold the screwdriver about 1/8" away from the valve cover. The spark should jump from the screwdriver shaft to the valve cover.


With the AFM in place, does it crank on the stock ECU? Do you get spark with the stock ECU?

no change with the stock ECU...gonna see if it's got spark later tonight or first thing in the morning when i get back home.

If it makes any difference: i've just realized that the light (red led) that comes on behind the megasquirt logo...is VERY dim, nowhere near as bright as it used to be, and when i turn the ignition off it flashes as bright as it should for just a split second....i've got the battery hooked up to a charger now, and i have also swapped out the ignitor with a known good unit with no better results.

thanks for the help...Brian

Megatune will read battery voltage. Right-click on any gauge, "Swap To", right-hand column, second from the bottom, reads "Battery Voltage". What is it?

12.35 - 12.36 volts

Also, something else that i havent noticed...when i first turn the key "on" not starting the car, it sounds almost like a fan kicking on for about a second..but it's not the blower fan or either of the electrical fans, so im not sure what it is making the noise...

Fuel pump.

If you've got your stock ECU and the AFM back in, and it still won't crank, the problem is more fundamental.

what the hell are the odds of it being the fuel pump at this exact time...? should i take the time to swap it out if i have a spare one right here?

Sav was saying that the sound you're hearing is your fuel pump priming. If you want to test it though you can jumper the fuel pump on to test it-- I think you can do that at the diag connector IIRC. From the sound of it it's kicking on though.

Do me a favor since it sounds like you have the MSPNP back in the car-- plug the laptop into it, power it up, and save the .msq off of it to a new file. Email that to me so I can take a look and see if I notice anything else that could cause a no-start condition.

I belive you need to replace that fuse in the underhood fusebox to run the fuel pump off the stock ecu/afm....
I studied the wiring schematic when I got my MSPNP and that was something I believe I interpreted correctly...

The stock ECU will run the fuel pump without the ST SIGN fuse-- my first test car had that fuse blown when the customer brought it to me and we didn't catch it until later on.

well, i switched out the fuel pump, ignitor and put new plugs in (have a parts car right beside it) reloaded the firmware and basemaps AGAIN...and she starts...so im not sure what it was that did it.....NOW though, i have no tach, everything else is working fine but no tach

My money is on the ignitor as to what fixed the no start condition-- it wouldn't have just grenaded itself though, and there's no way the MSPNP would have cooked it unless the ignition settings were changed from the default while the ignitors were plugged in. Such as when loading firmware and anytime before reloading the base map after you've loaded the firmware. At any rate-- glad to hear it's starting now.

But-- still sounds like an ignitor issue to me. Based on quite a bit of experience, either you got a fluke ignitor with a bad tach output (these things almost never fail without a reason), or it sounds to me like this ignitor was also, brief as it may have been, hooked up while the ignition settings were incorrect. I know from experience in testing on the Miata ignitors that the first thing to go is the tach output-- and more than likely the ignitor itself will give up on you shortly afterwards. During early beta testing we had to use AAA at one point after having the exact same symptoms with the tach quitting, we kept driving it and someone ended up stuck ;). We later repeated it in testing with the same outcome. A brief time (less than 1 minute) of power on with the ignition settings incorrect, such as when flashing the firmware with the ignitors connected, or hooking them up afterwards but before loading the base map, will toast the tach output first, followed more than likely by complete failure of the ignitor.

The tach output comes directly from the ignitor, not from the MSPNP MM9093. The MSPNP triggers the ignitors and tells them to spark the coils, the ignitors then send a signal to the tach.