Thank for breaking the rule. I'll do my best contribute more here. This concept has been a roadblock for me all week.

PWM is just a name of how to do something, it has no mathematical value.

DC is dependant on PW. You CONTROL the PW with MS.


I'm just busting your balls on the rule thing, I just wish you would install your turbo kit already and stop fucking around. Once you put it on I guarantee you will regret that you took so fucking long to do it.

The period (time for one complete on/off cycle) is typically a constant. There are exceptions, but in this case consider this rule to be true. It is sometimes specified as a frequency, and sometimes as a duration. They are interchangeable.

The duty cycle is the % of time during each period that the signal is "on" vs. "off." That's the variable.

In this picture, the green trace has a duty cycle of 75%, the red trace is 50%, and the blue trace is 25%. They all have the same period. So all else being equal, modulating at the green level will effectively give you 75% of whatever the maximum available power is, and so on.

http://img503.imageshack.us/img503/6059/pwmht6.gif

I planned on taking November off which fell through, then december and now I'm packing to go out of town again. This car will be ready for track season in March, and I want the street car lap record at Hallett.

thanks. This drove the point home. Suddenly all the cold start shit makes sense again.

Joe and I are saying the same thing, so don't get confused. He just has prettier pictures of a more real world wave.

It's amazing what you can do quickly with MS Excel. :bigtu:

new topic!!!
 

new topic:

I can't get my MS dashboard to show any lc-1 signal. I changed my grounds to the same point on the throttle body...but can't seem to find the ground from the ecm there. I did another free air calibration hooked it up, and still get nothing. I changed the configurator how according to DIY's manual.

Kinda stuck here.

Thanks


edit: going to garage armed with multimeter.

you may need to program the lc1's output, and make sure you're using the right analog out (there's 2). and make sure the analog out is actually hooked up to the MS, either through the correct pin on the aux connector or by splicing it in the nb wire, per the manual.

ps, thanks for creating a "build thread" instead of starting 100 new threads as your typical custom. :)

I'm connected through the wideband through the brown wire...both ouputs are programmed at 0-5v = 10-20afr. I just checked with the multimeter, and its showing a full 5v with the car off, but the gauge in the ms dashboard reads nothing. :confused: It makes sense that I could have extreme interference from the grounds, but the multimeter says full rich at the stock wire going into the firewall.

yeah, working on the car is nice for a change. I'd like to tune some tomorrow before I go out of town until the new year.

and has anyone seen me middle connector? I put it somewhere last month where I knew I wouldn't lose it.

Should i go out there tomorro and run two wires, soldered at one ring connector? Where specifically on the TB should I put the gnd...I think a pic would help, because I can't seem to find the gnd strapping for the ecm. Anyone have a link to the pinouts for the factory ECM so I can do some multimeter work?


and just for the record, I have a perfectly flat open loop idle currently...lol.

grounds are at the back of the head by the fuel rail. pinouts are at madracki

I had this setup earlier today with the signal wire on the ground strap, and the heater on the valve cover. I'm thoroughly confused, and going to discuss this with my bartender now.

You want ALL the ground to go to the place, but you want to seperate the ones it tells you to by like an inch so you don't get any interference. If you ground them apart like you have then you are gonna have big ground disparity problems. For example, mine are both grounded to the 2 black ground wires at the harness. They both go to the same place, but I have them seperated by just putting them on the 2 different wires.

shouldn't the o2 read full lean after doing a free air calibration, outside the exhaust? MS says its at 21.99 when the range should only go up to 19.99. "front bank o2 voltage is 3.04. Me thinks I didn't configure something properly in ms.

how will I know if its working correctly? I broke the rules and ran both leads to the same lug...so I expect a bad reading...but at least its reading something at this point.

You wont get a bad reading running it to the same lug. I had the same problems you described and called inovate about them. They told me to put the heater and system on the same lug,connect a MS ground to that lug as well.

Also, put the terminator into the IN plug on the LC1 for good measure.

how is you lc-1 outputing? 10-20:1? or default?

how is your configurator setup? 10-20:1 or default?


during freeair, it should show 20% O2 (in logworks), which it should not be ouputting any signal to MS at that point.

thanks, this is very useful so I don't have to waste time taking the o2 in and out.

noise or shitty tuning?
http://i9.tinypic.com/72zvayg.png