SKMetalworks

iTrader: (7)

I am writing this thread because i have no knowledge on how to tell if my motor is fukerd up. First of all some background. The car sat for a year and a half then i decided to finish the project. The car has a greddy kit with intercooler and custom exhaust (built by me.) 460cc RX7 injectors, Megasquirt PNP 90-93, Knock sensor, AFM Delete, and AEM Eugo wideband. that AFR values show up in Megatune.


At first i tried driving it but would go super lean as soon as i started driving but would idle pretty much fine. I checked my fuel tables and theres no way that it would go so lean. I was staying out of boost driving in 1st gear trying to figure this out. I pulled up to my house and white smoke is billowing out the exhaust. Now i hear (what i believe) is an exhaust leak very close to the mani. I turned off the car double check my MSQ and tried the base one again to see if that would give me something, i put the req fuel (6.7) in for the 460cc injectors. It would crank and turn over but die immidiatley. I pulled the spark plugs and # 1 was dry, #2,3,4 were wet. The tops of the pistons had an excess liquid on top (smelled like fuel) When i took a closer look #2 had light smoke coming out of the spark plug hole. Checked for a boost leak and found nothing. All clamps tight and all hoses attached.

I dont know if i blew my headgasket or what. I didnt see any metal shards on top of the piston or a hole in my block. Heres a video of me trying to start just a few minuets ago.



Here is my settings.ini

00001 ;################################################# ##############################
00002 ;## DO NOT edit this file in the MegaTune release directory, edit the copy ##
00003 ;## in your car-specific directory. That would be ##
00004 ;## ##
00005 ;## C:/Program Files/MegaSquirt/car1/mtCfg/settings.ini ##
00006 ;## ##
00007 ;## in the standard installation. ##
00008 ;################################################# ##############################
00009
00010 [MegaTune]
00011 MTversion = 2.25
00012
00013 ;-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
00014 ; Pick a base configuration.
00015 ; Exactly one of these configurations must be "#set" and all the rest must
00016 ; be "#unset".
00017
00018 #group CODE_VARIANT "Code Variant"
00019 #unset DFI "David Hooke's Ducati FI "
00020 #unset DUAL_TABLE "Guy Hill and Eric Fahlgren's Dual Table variant"
00021 #unset MSNEDIS "James Murray and Dave Hayne's MSnEDIS ignition variant"
00022 #unset MSNEDISmod "Roger Enns's MSnEDIS variant with staged injection"
00023 #unset MSNS "Magnus Bjelk's MSnS ignition variant"
00024 # set MSNS_EXTRA "James Murray and Phil Ringwood's MSnS extensions"
00025 #unset MS_ECU "Robert Hiebert's EEC-IV replacement code"
00026 #unset MS_I "Bowling and Grippo MegaSquirt"
00027 #unset MS_II "Bowling and Grippo MegaSquirt-II"
00028 #unset PIC_SQUIRT "PIC squirt"
00029 #unset GPIO "GPIO Direct Connection"
00030 #endgroup
00031
00032 ;------------------------------------------------------------------------------
00033 ; Pick an idle air controller setup, exactly one of these must be #set and the rest
00034 ; must be #unset. Only known to be valid for MegaSquirt-II.
00035
00036 #group IDLE_CONTROLLER "Idle Control Gauge Type"
00037 #unset FIDLE_GAUGE "ON/OFF Fidle Valve"
00038 # set PWM_GAUGE "PWM Idle Valve (e.g., Ford or Bosch)"
00039 #unset IAC_GAUGE "Stepper motor IAC controller (e.g., GM)"
00040 #endgroup
00041
00042 ;------------------------------------------------------------------------------
00043 ; Pick an O2 sensor setup, exactly one of these must be #set and the rest
00044 ; must be #unset. None of this is applicable to MS-II, see all the
00045 ; calibration options under the Tools menu when using standard B&G MS-II code.
00046
00047 #group LAMBDA_SENSOR "MS-I Lambda Sensor Type"
00048 #unset NARROW_BAND_EGO "Narrowband Sensor"
00049 #unset WB_1_0_LINEAR "Wideband in NB Emulator Mode, 0-1v 1.5-0.5 Lambda"
00050 # set AEM_LINEAR "AEM Gauge AEM-30-42xx"
00051 #unset AEM_NON_LINEAR "AEM UEGO Controller AEM-30-230x"
00052 #unset DIYWB_NON_LINEAR "DIY-WB or Tech Edge non-linear output"
00053 #unset DYNOJET_LINEAR "DynoJet Wideband Commander"
00054 #unset TECHEDGE_LINEAR "Tech Edge sensor giving 0-5V 9-19:1 AFR"
00055 #unset INNOVATE_1_2_LINEAR "Innovate sensor giving 1-2V 10-20:1 AFR"
00056 #unset INNOVATE_0_5_LINEAR "Innovate, PLX 0-5V 10-20:1 AFR"
00057 #unset INNOVATE_LC1_DEFAULT "Innovate LC-1 default, 0-5v = 0.5-1.5 lambda"
00058 #unset ZEITRONIX_NON_LINEAR "Zeitronix Non-linear WB"
00059 #unset WB_UNKNOWN "Wideband sensor but none of the above types"
00060 #endgroup
00061
00062 #unset LAMBDA "Display Lambda instead of AFR in Gauges"
00063
00064 ;-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
00065
00066 #group Fueling_Algorithm "Fueling Algorithms (Speed Density DEFAULT)"
00067 ; Some code variants have been modified to allow alpha-N, almost
00068 ; none have MAF support, so beware of partial implementations in
00069 ; ini files.
00070
00071 # set SPEED_DENSITY "Speed Density Fueling Algorithm (Off=Alpha-N)"
00072 #unset ALPHA_N "Alpha-N fueling Algorithm"
00073 #unset AIR_FLOW_METER "Use an Air Flow Meter rather than a MAP sensor for fueling algorithm"
00074 #endgroup
00075
00076 #unset CELSIUS "Temperature Units"
00077 ; Turn this on to enable degrees C everywhere.
00078
00079 ; Leave set if you have a modern video card with lots of color depth,
00080 ; unset to use Brad's reduced color map, if you have a 256-color box.
00081 # set COLOR_24_BITS "Use Full Colors (Off=Restricted Colors)"
00082
00083 # set KPa "Gauges all in kPa (otherwise some PSI)"
00084
00085 #group MAP_SENSOR "MS-I Map Sensor Type"
00086 #unset MPX4115 "MPX4115 - 115 kPa, Usually only on v1.01 boards"
00087 # set MPX4250 "MPX4250 - 250 kPa, Default MAP sensor since v2.2 hardware"
00088 ;obsolete GM300KPa "GM 3.0 BAR - 300 kPa"
00089 ; Incorrect info from Aquamist
00090 ; Correct info from http://www.not2fast.com/electronics/...P_12223861.pdf
00091 ; Use MPXH6300A instead of GM300KPa, they have identical specifications.
00092 #unset MPXH6300A "MPXH6300 - 300 kPa" ; http://www.freescale.com/files/senso.../MPXH6300A.pdf
00093 #unset MPXH6400A "MPXH6400 - 400 kPa" ; http://www.freescale.com/files/senso.../MPXH6400A.pdf
00094 #endgroup
00095
00096 ;-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

wes65

iTrader: (7)

Have you tried a compression test?

MX5RACER

What is the condition of the fuel in the tank? You might want to drain the gas tank and put fresh fuel in. You should also change out the fuel filter. After a car sits, the injectors can get gummed up and stick either closed or open. You can take the injectors out and let them soak in Techron, which should help to open them back up.

wayne_curr

iTrader: (8)

Also you should have an extra set of (dry) spark plugs handy. Once a plug sits in fuel its not going to work til it dries out or gets replaced. Every once and a while I have a fouled plug (sometimes 2) due to fuel sitting in the CC.

No doubt i'd do like they said and get that fuel tank empty and refilled with some good fresh premium (if you haven't already) and change that damned fuel filter. I hope your injectors are ok.

At this point, just for the sake of doing it, plug your stock ECU back in, put your stock injectors back in with your AFM and just start it and idle it for a while to get everything moving again.

SKMetalworks

iTrader: (7)

Ill have to get a spare set from the local auto parts store. The gas tank was drained prior to sitting. And refueled a few weeks before this stage. Injectors were cleaned and flow tested so i dont see why they wouldnt work.

Is that the only way to tell if its just the MS? Swapping the ecu's? I have a few problems in that i do not have a narrowband bung only wideband. Another is i snipped my AFM plug on the car. If i have to then i will.

Also for a compression test you need the engine to be warm correct?

wayne_curr

iTrader: (8)

Just watched the vid, fouled plugs. Almost guarantee it. Post your MSQ. Have you tried jumping it? Seems like its runnin low on juice.

mrtonyg

iTrader: (1)

Not for a quick check...if the engine won't start you need to at least establish the basics are ok.

But most likely you have crappy fuel that fouled the spark plugs.

SKMetalworks

iTrader: (7)

Ask and you shall recieve

If it is indeed fouled plugs:

A. How do i "unfoul" them

B. There still lies the problem of the car not driving

C. I want to drive it.

D. BOOST

E. All of the above

mrtonyg

iTrader: (1)

Put new plugs and drain the fuel (or at least top it off with fresh fuel).

wayne_curr

iTrader: (8)

his fuel should be fine.

Let the plugs dry out and try them again, go get another set as well. Only 8 bucks, why not. Letting the current ones dry may not work still. I'm still looking through your msq, nothing yet.

Edit: I see nothing wrong with the msq. Definitely get new plugs and double check that your plug wires are installed correctly. I'm not entirely sure what your Cranking and ASE settings should look like, but I think they may be a bit rich for your setup so go find someone's numbers with 460s (some searching will turn this up for shizzle) but I dont really think yours will keep you from starting.

Oh, also...are you trying to give it some throttle when you're cranking? From what I got from your vid, it almost caught. My car does this from time to time when I foul a plug and its a bitch to get it started. Even when it starts it runs on 3 cyls for about 30 seconds before the plug unfouls.

mrtonyg

iTrader: (1)

Says who? According to the OP, the fuel in the car is 1.5 years old, not exactly fresh fuel.

SKMetalworks

iTrader: (7)

I stated earlier that the fuel was drained before the car sat and new fresh fuel was filled up 2 weeks prior

wayne_curr

iTrader: (8)

Updates? Tried the new plugs yet?

SKMetalworks

iTrader: (7)

Have school tonight but will pick up some plugs on the way home

SKMetalworks

iTrader: (7)

Eureka. Wayne you were right. Battery juice was low. Popped some new plugs in gapped at .030. Spent a good 2 hours road tuning tonight. Im still having lean spots at WOT and super freakin rich at idle. Anyway the car is driveable now and ive never been more pleased with my exhaust. (except my car is too low ) Went to shell got some 92 octane (highest around my area) and just enjoyed our unusual seattle weather. Ill attach my MSQ and One of my 7 data logs tonight lol. And also a 2 minuet clip of me driving. Although i didnt go WOT i still am putting down 5psi (for now untill i get more firmiliar with Megatuning)

YouTube - 93 Greddy miata first drive (5psi)

Enjoy

mrtonyg

iTrader: (1)

Glad you got it going!

wayne_curr

iTrader: (8)

Post up a screenshot of your AFR Targets. I'd post mine but i'm at work now.

For the idle you really wanna tune that manually and set the VE analyzer to ignore everything below like 1500rpm and 50 kpa or something along those lines so it doesn't **** it up every time you run a log through.

I'm excited for you, its been a long time coming.

Jdilla

You should upgrade to tunerpro. Very easy to use