Built 05' MSM motor w/ EUDM intake Base Map?
 

Greetings,

New guy on the block here. I'm working on dialing in my MS3PNP kit for my 94 chassis and I'm genuinely curious what the consensus is on which base map to use. I truly do understand that literally every single engine is different and will require calibration. Really I'm looking to get the ignition to work and juices flowing properly after turning the key.

I'm quite a ways off from getting this thing actually running based on how much wiring and splicing I still have to do but the overall scheme is that I'm installing a forged 1.9L longblock including higher flowing supertech valves, plus a EUDM manifold, junk2 TB, and the coup d'etat TSE EFR 6758. I'm transferring over the crank/cam sensor wiring and factory NB knock unit as well including the NB iacv. For ignition, I'm looking at the d585 coils and a radium engineering fuel rail for my ID750s.

The obvious answer is that based on lack of experience, I should get it professionally tuned but GETTING to said dyno may be a concern. In all honesty, I could probably tow it there once complete if that is indeed the safest route. My overall experience with MS stems from about 8 years ago building an FSAE car and just playing around with tuner studio, its obvious things have come a long way.

I realize in the grand scheme of things, I skipped several large steps in the proper MT.net way to turbo a car but I'm hoping a dose of humility and desire to learn/listen will get me there.

put in everything, wire open wastegate and learn to tune with no boost?
add boost.
profit?

its not really rocket science, and i assume ms3 has come a long way in 8 years.....

DIY's MSM spark map should be close enough to get the car driving

BE VERY CAREFUL!
The wastegate flapper on the EFR turbo will hit the turbine wheel if you wire it fully open!
You have been warned.

This is great information. I feel like an idiot for not thinking both about the idea of just wiring the wastegate open (seems rather obvious now) and the potential interference issue. Any recommendations on sticking with the stock BW boost controller via MS3 or going for a wire-in 4 valve from DIY? I'm curious since I just read a thread on boost taper and if its worth the extra effort early on to relocate the location where the EBC connects to.