it does when I only have time after work and get my shit together. plus I got fed up with using a crap soldering iron.
it also doesn't really help if I'm the only one with mechanical skills in the house.
I'm not making up excuses for taking 2 days to solder some wires, but merely explaining :)

/bitching :)

finished up the wiring and tried recalibrating the TPS
got 80 on closed and 166 on WOT, does this look normal or did I screw up somewhere else. car wouldn't start, cranked real slow but that may be due to the battery.

megatune started bitching about code variants, 29y3 found in MT and found 29Q in the controller (the MS itself?) ?

more things to fix :)

Moving in the right direction, but it seems wrong to me. You should be seeing values closer to 0 at closed.

What's the history of this TPS? Is it a grungy old original unit that may be past its prime?

still the original one from '94. if it were to give up the ghost, wouldn't I have noticed it before when I was still running the stock ECU?

need to get my IAT, LC-1 and knocksense wired in too..

If you have access to a multimeter, you can measure the voltage on the Red/Black wire (relative to ground) as you open the throttle slowly by hand. It should progress smoothly from ~0V at fully closed to a ~4.5V at fully open. An analog meter, if you can find one with a 0-5VDC scale (or close) would be ideal as you'll be able to see any little bumps in the signal.

I'm seeing 22 and 186 for zero throttle and WOT. So 80 sounds a bit rediculous. Can you adjust the TPS's at all? Maybe it has been turned so that it doesn't get it's full range of motion.

do it again, as long as it's always what it gives you, then you should be in business.

I'll get out the DMM like joe said, then I'll see if it gives consisten values closed and WOT.
will these funny values make the tuning harder as the throttle position is displayed less accurate?

It won't cause any issues. You have to tune your own acceleration enrichments anyway so it shouldn't make a difference.

Just make sure that it's linear. When mine went bad, it actually went up-down-up as you opened the throttle.

ok, my DMM has some sort of linear gauge too so I'll check for any spikes when testing the TPS to make sure it is linear :)

should be able to check that after work today

I tried recalibrating the TPS in megatune, still gives me 80 closed and 166 WOT ADC consistently. the TPS gauge in megatune reads from 27% to 62% closed and WOT:hustler:

I also tried to start, but I only heard a fast clicking noise:vash: like the startermotor slipped past the teeth on the flywheel, it seemed to loud for a starter relais
I'm stumped:bang:

Maybe reading this will give you a few new ideas to try, specifically the last one. :)

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sho...light=throttle

I'll give that a shot, thanks :)

I hooked up the laptop again, TPS is giving consistent 80 closed and 166 WOT, so that should be ok. got the gauge working too now, shows nice 0-100% throttle now :)

any ideas on the clicking noise?

and what's this?
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...9/MTerror1.jpg

working gauge:
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...9/TPSgauge.jpg

That error message shows you have MegaTune configured for 029y3 through 029y4 firmware, but your Megasquirt is running a different firmware, most likely 029v. (Firmware versions change their signature only if they need a different configuration, so 029q through 029v have the same signature.)

how do I change that in MegaTune, a matter of a little change in the ini file or is there more to it?

[/stupid questions]

looks like you simply don't have the correct firmware locally on your machine.

Could just need to be turned on in the configurator, because it's obvious you loaded it with the 029v firmware.

I'm just using whatever you preloaded for me in the MS

Easy way is to go to the Software / Downloads section of our website and install our MegaTune package - this one has been configured to let you select the firmware when MegaTune loads.