Sick of high idle, please look at my idle settings
03-09-2011, 01:25 PM
#1
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Sick of high idle, please look at my idle settings
My car idles between 12-1400 RPM and I'm tired of it. Here is my current idle table. How do I get the idle to be closer to stock? Do I adjust the values in this table?
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03-10-2011, 01:10 AM
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My .msq was always like this in idle settings ever since I went MS2. How do I get it to run closed loop? If I do run closed loop, will I ever see idle under 1000 RPM?
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03-10-2011, 09:00 AM
#9
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yep. takes penitence and a lot of rereading to get it good.
if anything, to lower your idle speed, you'd just need to lower to PWM DC% numbers in the table you posted.
the lower the duty cycle, the lower the idle speed. Just think of it as the amount the valve is cracked open. 0 = closed 100 = open.
if you lower the numbers and the idle speed doesn't decrease, you need to turn the screw on the TB and let less air around the butterfly.
if anything, to lower your idle speed, you'd just need to lower to PWM DC% numbers in the table you posted.
the lower the duty cycle, the lower the idle speed. Just think of it as the amount the valve is cracked open. 0 = closed 100 = open.
if you lower the numbers and the idle speed doesn't decrease, you need to turn the screw on the TB and let less air around the butterfly.
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03-10-2011, 11:18 AM
#10
yep. takes penitence and a lot of rereading to get it good.
if anything, to lower your idle speed, you'd just need to lower to PWM DC% numbers in the table you posted.
the lower the duty cycle, the lower the idle speed. Just think of it as the amount the valve is cracked open. 0 = closed 100 = open.
if you lower the numbers and the idle speed doesn't decrease, you need to turn the screw on the TB and let less air around the butterfly.
if anything, to lower your idle speed, you'd just need to lower to PWM DC% numbers in the table you posted.
the lower the duty cycle, the lower the idle speed. Just think of it as the amount the valve is cracked open. 0 = closed 100 = open.
if you lower the numbers and the idle speed doesn't decrease, you need to turn the screw on the TB and let less air around the butterfly.
1. Idle Air Control Valve Duty Cycle (already mentioned)
2. Idle Screw (already mentioned)
3. Spark advance in the idle region
That's it.
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03-10-2011, 11:58 AM
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I always looked at it like this...If the car idled fine with the stock ECU, then why would I even think about moving the idle screw? It's all ECU related. Like mentioned above, 1 and 3.
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03-10-2011, 12:43 PM
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No vacuum leaks for me. I've been there and know what that's about. It happened when I swapped in my 460's the first time, it's pulling at least 21 inHG at idle now.
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03-10-2011, 09:18 PM
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I'm at work right now and I just thought of this. What if I warmed my car up and unplugged my idle valve wire? What if the idle doesn't change?
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03-11-2011, 10:29 AM
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If you can't control the idle speed with warmup only, switching to closed loop will do no good.
Make it so you can make the idle speed go up and down using the warmup-only table before moving any further.
Additionally, once you can do that, make sure you can drive around and have the idle return to a stable RPM without oscillation as well.
Ken
Make it so you can make the idle speed go up and down using the warmup-only table before moving any further.
Additionally, once you can do that, make sure you can drive around and have the idle return to a stable RPM without oscillation as well.
Ken
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03-11-2011, 10:34 AM
#20
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Play around with the idle valve test mode and get a feel for how it reacts to different pulse widths. Take a data log of a warmup from completely cold to when the thermostat opens, just idling without moving. That should give you a feel for what coolant temps cause you to idle high, and where you can pull down the pulse width values on your warmup curve.
Not all idle valves are the same. Figure out what yours likes.
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