Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats. - Cold Start: Success! (also, I'm a dumbass)

- MEGAsquirt (https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquirt-18/)

- - Cold Start: Success! (also, I'm a dumbass) (https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquirt-18/cold-start-success-also-im-dumbass-17031/)

Joe, you are my hero. I had the same incorrect settings (I didn't even know that dialog existed). When I changed them to the ^ ones, my car fired immediately, as opposed to kind of "galloping" until it built up some momentum.

Of course, after it fired, it immediately died again. So I killed my ASE, and WE, and then started it again and kept it running with the throttle long enough for the AFRs to stabilize. I then added back in a bit of WE to bring the AFR back to around 14.0, and voila, rough idle at around 750 dead cold, and no stalling on the low dip after blipping. All this with no idle valve. I'm so stoked now... When I get my idle valve wired and configured, I should be able to get it just like stock.

-Mike

i checked my settings yest and they were default just like Joe posted...onto to more troubleshooting...:vash:

Quote:

Originally Posted by tvalenziano (Post 215337)

i checked my settings yest and they were default just like Joe posted...onto to more troubleshooting...:vash:

You just have all kinds of issues don't you.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cjernigan (Post 215339)

You just have all kinds of issues don't you.

tell me bout it...:bang:
But reading MY thread u can see why I haven't even bothered going into this too much yet...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe Perez (Post 214277)

I haven't logged it on the scope, but it feels like it takes maybe one to one and a half complete revolutions before it fires. Basically, it feels almost exactly like stock. The only difference is that after it catches it immediately shoots to about 1,500, then wants to idle at about 500 RPM for a second, and then it settles.

Congratulations on starting your car again. :-) I have to do the same, it's revving too much when I first start it (wouldn't it be slick to have it wait a second at low idle before revving, so as to build oil pressure beforehand?)....

yeah, I guess the sig needs work. The stupid megasquirt "simplified" my car - from the complicated way it worked to the simple way it doesn't. :-P

Quote:

Originally Posted by AbeFM (Post 216595)

You should be able to setup an ignition hold period so that the motor won't fire for one or two revolutions in order to build up oil pressure. If you're interested. Your low rpm idle idea sounds nicer though.

yeah, it already does that by plain not starting for the longest of times. Seriously annoying.

But I would really like to have a fast idle feature, say, 1500-2k for 30 seconds, only AFTER the motor gets going. Right now it's instantly jumps to 2500, then falls down to normal idle after a few seconds, the worst of both worlds. It does little to nothing to warm it, and give it abuse when you can't even pretend it warm/oiled.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe Perez (Post 213732)

Today at lunchtime (CLT = 70°) my engine fired up and roared to life on the first turn of the key!

The back-story:

Since installing the MS about three weeks ago, I've waged an unending jihad against this massive cold start problem. I'd engage the starter, after a few seconds it'd cough, catch, run very poorly for a moment, then stall. Sometimes I could keep it running on the second or third try by working the throttle, sometimes not. Generally, by the fifth or sixth attempt I could manage to get it running by pumping the throttle and then holding it at about 2,500 for a minute or so. The neighbors were not enjoying this serenade every morning (fortunately, no fighting was necessary. ;) )

Every morning I played with the cranking fuel, ASE, and warmup, throwing larger and larger numbers at them until I practically expected to see gasoline pouring out the tailpipe, but nothing. Always the same result: crankcrankcrankcrankcrank *sputter* ... *sputter* ...stall (repeat). I was really starting to worry that some night I'd kill the battery doing this.

It's been driving me absolutely nuts! I've been re-checking the hardware, using the 'scope to verify the injector timing relative to stock (it is slightly off, but not much), fiddling with values, cursing rather loudly, and just generally running around in all directions wondering where the hell I went wrong.

Last night, while on my second bottle of Deschutes Brewery's Black Butte Porter, I said "To Hell With It." I decided to try going back to 029v (from HR10d2) and generating a whole new MSQ from scratch. As I was about halfway through the process, I happened to notice a setup window that I'd overlooked previously. It's under Advanced -> Fuel Table Selection.

Holy freaking shit.

No wonder it felt like it was firing on 2 cylinders and that my changes to Cranking and Warmup were having no effect- it's because they weren't! With regard to the attached picture, the boxes highlighted in red default to OFF, and must be manually set to ON. Otherwise, you'll only be squirting two injectors during cranking, and all your precious warmup enrich values will be for naught.

http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/1...eltablexd2.gif

I can't believe I am such an utter, total, dumbass to have missed this. :vash:

I discovered this year-old thread last night while reading up on ASE topics. Sure enough, the settings Joe mentions were 'off' in my files. Made the change this morning, then the car started MUCH easier than at any point since I started modifying it two years ago. LOL, I don't remember exactly what "stock" feels like, but it must be something like this. The car just said to me, "Okay, I'm on now, thank you," instead of roaring to life like a Mack truck ..... also the initially idle was much smoother too. Yay!

So, consider this post a major bump for anyone who forgot about Joe's tip and/or never read it in the first place.

Awesome

Glad I read it!