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Originally Posted by m2cupcar
(Post 108649)
Scott is getting his temp from the thermosensor in the back of the head. The sensor in the tstat housing is actually thermoswitch that goes to ground at 97c- which IMO is too late for a boosted car in the south. The link can control the fans though if you run a relay ground to the designated pin on the ecu (I did it per the manual). My fan comes on when the car comes to a stop - set to 95c (which I believe is the stock NA 1.8 setting).
Would be nice to see some oil and coolant temps from water/oil cooled turbos, and oil cooled only turbos. I'd post my oil temps, but they're not representative of a working system. Either my sending unit is whacked OR my oil tstat in the sandwich plate (with cooler attached) isn't working. On my 3 hour round trip I was getting 270f at 3500-4000 cruise. Boost showed the same. I've got an oil temp gauge, and the sender is in the drain plug. Getting anything really meaningful from this is tough since it takes a long time for either the oil in the sump to get hot or the sender is REALLY slow. So I don't know if I could show a difference between boosted and none-boosted. I also think the oil pan does a pretty reasonable job at cooling the oil when driving. I can see my oil temps come up significantly when in slow moving traffic. Also it takes a good 15 to 20 minutes to get any movement on the gauge, which starts at 140. |
yeah hitting only 175º or so in boost doesn't feel right to me. I can't believe my little scooper is doing that good of a job.
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Originally Posted by Al Hounos
(Post 108656)
with the mazda factor specs, i idled warm at about 160, with aussie's, i idle around 180.... I could have sworn the previous owner said he put a 160 thermostat in, not sure though. i hit 200 in boost.
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Me either, let us know what you find because i bet our temps are ~8-10* more than what they are reading in MT.
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my fans are jumpered on all the time.
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Originally Posted by jayc72
(Post 108657)
Couldn't you unplug the harness that goes to the thermoswitch and run 1L from the link back to this? ...
Also it takes a good 15 to 20 minutes to get any movement on the gauge, which starts at 140. My oil will be at 220 from a warm 180 if I make several boosted runs. Around town driving I see 240 - but constant hwy cruise shows 270f and that's just plain wrong for somebody with over 5 qts oil capacity and a cooler. |
Should be easy for you guys to figure out. Unless modified the fan will come on at 97C. Is the correction you guys are applying with the MS linear? If the MS says you are running 80C when the fan comes on it should be reasonable to assume that you are 17C out.
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Originally Posted by Al Hounos
(Post 108667)
my fans are jumpered on all the time.
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Originally Posted by m2cupcar
(Post 108668)
Yes you could, since you're just substituting the ecu for the thermoswitch ground- I've got a giant spal that pulls about 22amps on startup so it's got a 30amp relay. The real advantage of using the ecu is being able to control your fan points depending on season. It's far easier to keep the fluids from getting hot, than to try and cool them down after they've gotten hot.
My oil will be at 220 from a warm 180 if I make several boosted runs. Around town driving I see 240 - but constant hwy cruise shows 270f and that's just plain wrong for somebody with over 5 qts oil capacity and a cooler. |
Originally Posted by cjernigan
(Post 108663)
Me either, let us know what you find because i bet our temps are ~8-10* more than what they are reading in MT.
i'm heading out to do it now, then driving home, let you know in an hour. |
ok, reflashed it correctly with Aussie's settings.
Reading closer to 170 after sitting for a minutes, low speed cruise I dip down to 160-165, if i sit at a light it hits 170 then peaks at about 175 when the fans turn on. so I'm going to assume it's good. |
That means according to your MS the thermoswitch is turning on the fans at 80* instead of 97*.
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All this fahrenheit celsius conversion crap is killing me. I'm simple minded sometimes. I'll load aussies settings, seeing how he has the same motor as me anyway.
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Dammit it's a japanese car, metric is where it's at! :)
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Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 108654)
I think it may just have GM defaults on it now. I don't really remember to be honest, acutally I think i just uploaded the standard file, not the mod file by mistake.
Both sensors were mounted next to each other. |
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Tstat fully opens at 100c
I thought this was interesting. It's the OE specs for the FE tstat (my engine).
The tstat isn't fully open until 100C! I've got the fan coming on at 94c and shutting off at 88c. 100c seems incredibly high for full coolant flow to be initiated - no? Wonder if there's a spec like this for the Miata engines? http://img253.imageshack.us/img253/3876/image002lv9.gif |
Just for the sake of conversation, my car seems to run around 94-99* Celcius, per the Hydra.
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Originally Posted by nester
(Post 108996)
Just for the sake of conversation, my car seems to run around 94-99* Celcius, per the Hydra.
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Originally Posted by m2cupcar
(Post 108995)
I thought this was interesting. It's the OE specs for the FE tstat (my engine).
The tstat isn't fully open until 100C! I've got the fan coming on at 94c and shutting off at 88c. 100c seems incredibly high for full coolant flow to be initiated - no? Wonder if there's a spec like this for the Miata engines? https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/at...1&d=1178204464 |
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