KnocksenseMS
#1
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KnocksenseMS
Who here uses KnocksenseMS? I'm about 24 hours away from purchasing my Megasquirt setup and am still on the fence in regards to KnocksenseMS. Here is a little bit of my background and it might explain why I am sitting on the fence with this.
- My Car already had a knock link installed when I purchased it. (I look at it when tuning, but leave it in the glove box most times)
- My 700whp Honda Civic does not have a knock sensor, and none of the 500+ Honda's I have tuned do either,
- My old Miata (498hp) ran a LINK, TECII, TEC3 and FJO Ecu all without a knocksensor.
- All I run in my Miata is 94 Octane Fuel.
I've never run a knock sensor, and **TOUCH WOOD** have never hurt and engine due to knock.
I know it is only about an extra $100 for the knocksetup, but I'm really not sure if I need it, plus I plan to install some stiff mounts and I am worried about falses (I once tried the knock sensor on my FJO and had this issue)
Your thoughts?
Do you folks run this KnocksenseMS on your Megasquirt setups?
- My Car already had a knock link installed when I purchased it. (I look at it when tuning, but leave it in the glove box most times)
- My 700whp Honda Civic does not have a knock sensor, and none of the 500+ Honda's I have tuned do either,
- My old Miata (498hp) ran a LINK, TECII, TEC3 and FJO Ecu all without a knocksensor.
- All I run in my Miata is 94 Octane Fuel.
I've never run a knock sensor, and **TOUCH WOOD** have never hurt and engine due to knock.
I know it is only about an extra $100 for the knocksetup, but I'm really not sure if I need it, plus I plan to install some stiff mounts and I am worried about falses (I once tried the knock sensor on my FJO and had this issue)
Your thoughts?
Do you folks run this KnocksenseMS on your Megasquirt setups?
Last edited by M-Tuned; 02-22-2008 at 03:16 PM.
#4
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i like it. i have it tuned pretty well to be used as a safety procaution. Itll show knock at high rpm/load when the engine is cold and thats about it. It seems to be pretty "acurate" to the point where its not goin off all the time, but still gives me a heads up when the engine is runnin a little rough and possibly knocking
#5
hmm, im about to order my MS also and now im unsure if I should get the knocksense. How hard is it to tune and do stiffer mounts really make it harder? I have comp mounts now and en ebay torque strut. Someone tell me why i should get it.
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#7
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I've heard knocksense is alot more accurate than that circuit. Its really just a matter of turning down the sensitivity until its not annoying. you get it to where it goes off every time u get on high rpm/load and then just turn it slightly less sensative than that... so it only detects knocks or abnormal vibration
#9
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Knock tends to occur within a specific and narrow frequency range for any given engine, and is largely determined by the cylinder diameter. To improve the false-rejection abilities of a knock detection system, you can either use a narrowband sensor (as some OEMs do) or use a bandpass filter on the detector as KSMS does- you tell Boris your engine bore and he sets it up. The only user adjustment is a potentiometer to set the sensitivity (gain) of the circuit.
I found that mine tended to false trigger a lot when initially installed. I've been slowly tweaking the potentiometer (turn a bit, drive a bit) and have found that the propensity for false triggering seems to increase linearly with RPM. I got mine to the point where it doesn't seem to false trigger except occasionally on shifting, at which point it doesn't matter anyway. FWIW, this is on a 1.6 with MazdaComp motormounts and noisy-as-hell lifters.
I consider it a nice piece of insurance. I mounted the LED on the top of the steering column (in a small box, pointed directly at my face) and it's bright enough to notice in full sunlight.
I found that mine tended to false trigger a lot when initially installed. I've been slowly tweaking the potentiometer (turn a bit, drive a bit) and have found that the propensity for false triggering seems to increase linearly with RPM. I got mine to the point where it doesn't seem to false trigger except occasionally on shifting, at which point it doesn't matter anyway. FWIW, this is on a 1.6 with MazdaComp motormounts and noisy-as-hell lifters.
I consider it a nice piece of insurance. I mounted the LED on the top of the steering column (in a small box, pointed directly at my face) and it's bright enough to notice in full sunlight.
#10
I too put my LED on my steering column though it is in a hole i drilled in the steering column cover, exactly like what Scott did to his. I can also see it during the day in bright sunlight.
#14
This kind of looks like it would work well or the same purpose. Still gotta hit up the local hobby lobby to see if they have anything though.
http://ElectronicsUSA.com/miniboxes4.html
http://ElectronicsUSA.com/miniboxes4.html
#15
Boost Pope
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Mine is pretty similar to Rev's. I went to Fry's and bought a tiny little project box that looks like it was intended for building a remote control or something. I removed one of the end plates, and mounted the LED deep inside the case at the other end. This way it's shielded from sunlight. It's mounted so that the open end faces back towards me.
#16
JESUS your car looks ricier every time I see it!!
Anyway, with my original (non-MS) knocksense I guess it works, when I was running a front liscence plate, it lit up all the time on the freeway (blocked intercooler) but not before or after that.
Now I don't trust it again. One thing, once I set it for no false positives (free reving in a parkinglot when fully warmed up) I never get any weird wrong signals, except above 7k indicated, which might be since I tuned it on the stock tach, not the MS powered one.
Anyway, with my original (non-MS) knocksense I guess it works, when I was running a front liscence plate, it lit up all the time on the freeway (blocked intercooler) but not before or after that.
Now I don't trust it again. One thing, once I set it for no false positives (free reving in a parkinglot when fully warmed up) I never get any weird wrong signals, except above 7k indicated, which might be since I tuned it on the stock tach, not the MS powered one.
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