DIYPNP 99 Help Needed Misfire/No Idle
 

Hello All,
I have been an active viewer of this site for over three years but I have never had a need to create an account until this weekend when I installed my DIYPNP in my 99. I spent most of the weekend trying to make the car turn over with limited success so I’ve decided to make a post as a sanity check to make sure my TS settings are correct before I pull the megasquirt out and check wiring.

Here are my specs:
DIYPNP Nippon Denso 76 pin Version 1.5 with sequential ignition add-on
NA alternator swap reading 14v at the battery
Toyota COP conversion using (the great) Brianeack’s post https://www.miataturbo.net/useful-sa...writeup-12704/
Stock injectors (I have rx-8 yellow ones that I will install after I get the car running and start all over again)
GM IAT
Innovate MTX-L Wideband

Before the megasquirt install the car ran great so I am lead to believe that any issue with the car has been created by the new megasquirt. When I turn the key the car will fire but sounds awful as if there is a misfire or timing is way off. However, all four plugs have spark which was confirmed by checking with a timing light. The engine runs as long as I am applying a little bit of throttle but dies at idle. When it dies there is usually a pop leading me to think that the car is running rich. I cannot keep the engine running long enough to check timing (which may be my major issue). I left TS on wasted spark since the Toyota COP doesn’t convert the car to a true COP setup. Also, my log file shows 100% for EGO con1 which I am confused about. Does this mean I wired my wideband incorrectly?

TS Settings: Starting with the 99 Miata base map from DIY Autotune I calibrated TPS CLT and IAT.
I switched to sequential ignition and used the settings recommended on DIY Autotune.
Set timing to fixed @ 10 degrees
Adjusted crank dwell, nominal dwell and battery dwell to match Braineak’s suggested for Toyota COP

Would someone be willing to check my TS settings to see if I am missing something?
My TS settings and log files are attached and here is a link to a short video showing my car running(ish).

Any and all help is appreciated!

Here are some screenshots of the tune and datalog

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9cf9bed033.png
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...07f4f5d118.png

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8c457185c8.png
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d856a071e3.png

Try disconnecting the fuel pump fuse and checking timing while cranking.

Oops I forgot to mention that I tried pulling the fuel relay already. I tried it again tonight with the same result. The timing light came on and off intermittently which leads me to believe that there is a wiring issue? I'm going to pull the MS this weekend and check all my solder joints. Did anything else in my tune stand out as an issue?

I took a look at the data log and there appears to be a sync loss issue. Can you capture that in a composite log?

Thanks for looking Matt! I've already taken the MS out but when I plug it in I will do a composite log. The sync loss issue might have been due to me cycling the key in-between cranking but I'll see if i can replicate it. After looking at the MS board I think I might have found my problem. It looks like I accidentally installed a resistor where a diode should have been in the pull up area for IAC. Plus it is connected to the 5V out instead of 12V. Here are some photos. Hopefully you'll agree :)

Sidenote: I'm new to the forum, is this the best way to upload pictures?

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8d61f90f5c.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2698889143.jpg

Solved: It appears that I had two issues. The first was the IAC pull up pictured above which had a resistor instead the flyback diode (1N4001DICT-ND) installed. I guess thats what I get for trying to wire it at night :D The second was that I had my WB02 wired to the 12V switched cigarette lighter which doesn't supply power during crank. This was solved by rewiring the WB to a 12V source that stays hot during crank.

Updating my old threads.... this one turned out to be a coil-pack issue. My Toyota COPs didn't like the megasquirt very much, maybe this was due to me being lazy and not installing the capacitor. I got a new stock 99 coil-pack and the car fired right up.

I’m running MS3-Basic from Reverant, COP’s, no Capacitor. Had to use firmware filtering to not have sync losses, but it works fine after I did that. Rev’s cam and crank input circuits are Opti-couplers, rather than VR.

Do you suggest that I rewire mine to match Rev's? I haven't been able to find wiring for a 99 except for the ones on DIYPNP's website. I wonder if Braineack will ever add it to trubokitty.
Since you have a 99' would you looking at my current issue of crank but no start? It might be related to the wiring.
https://www.miataturbo.net/general-m...-thread-95902/

No. I'm not nearly that knowledgeable. I'm just sharing my little bit of experience. What I would suggest, as I so much prefer the COP to the stock coils, is that you re-try with the FW filtering on. If you want to try that, I can share my Noise Filter Curve, etc.

Also, in case there is any bearing, I am set up for sequential spark.

the capacitor has nothing to do with that. did you update your tune for lower dwell times?

nope I never will. never had an issue with this in the ~hundreds of diypnps I've built.


can I see the bottom of you board?

Yes. From what I can tell, the VR input should be more forgiving than the Opti-coupler. Ask Ian.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4604ee72f3.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8d4d47b63d.jpg