DIYPNP- the do it yourself Plug-n-play EMS for your car
#124
Supporting Vendor
iTrader: (33)
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: atlanta-ish
Posts: 12,659
Total Cats: 134
S1=IGN1
....
S4=WLED
To risk sounding like a broken record, you get the sequential card for injection. That frees up both those outputs.
#125
"PT6 and PT7 are connected to the sequential board through the 10 pin
>> header. You just install the header and the 2 output wires, then set it
>> up in the software.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Matt Cramer"
#128
I may have to get rid sequential spark. It seems this would be a better option than removing sequential injection.
There is one more output that is yet to be determined with new firmware. Maybe we should request that this be another on/off output. Looks like we need another module that will supply more outputs
There is one more output that is yet to be determined with new firmware. Maybe we should request that this be another on/off output. Looks like we need another module that will supply more outputs
#129
Supporting Vendor
iTrader: (33)
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: atlanta-ish
Posts: 12,659
Total Cats: 134
I personally would rather have individual spark than fuel.
There is a I/O board coming out soon. That would give the ability to get crazy with stuff like dual stage cooling fans n junk.
There is a I/O board coming out soon. That would give the ability to get crazy with stuff like dual stage cooling fans n junk.
#130
Well motherf*****. When's the new board supposed to come out? I just spent $38 bucks for sequential injection not realizing it was going to screw up my setup.
If I had known this, I would have waited to buy the sequentail chip until the next i/o plugin came out.
I'm aggravated, I'm going to get a beverage.
If I had known this, I would have waited to buy the sequentail chip until the next i/o plugin came out.
I'm aggravated, I'm going to get a beverage.
#131
You could give up the fan output and use a 1.6 thermosensor to activate the fan. Alternatively you could modify a Velleman mk138 to the desired temp range. Here's the schematic.
#132
I wonder if I could use the thermosensor with the clutch switch so that the fan would only come on when the clutch was pressed. Maybe a main switch that I could turn on and off so that it wouldn't come on when the car was being started. Of course I plan on bypassing the clutch switch on startup anyway.
I really just need a temporary solution until the i/o add on comes out.
I really just need a temporary solution until the i/o add on comes out.
#134
And Ben is right, why did you wire the fuelpump to PA0? Fuelpump goes to wherever the fuelpump is on your model at the adapter board.
@all:
How do you wire IGN1/IGN2 for wasted spark with this tiny holes in the main board. Jumper at the adapter board?
Greets
#136
And i think, if Jonny goes coil, he also make sequential inj as well, so the wiring gose at once.
I just think what is the cleanest solution, not the easyest.
#139
Fuelpump is switching the ground, because the 90-93 dosent switch with the ECU (using MASS AIR FLOW).
Corrected in the new manual from Matt posted here in the forum.
And the PA0 i asked:
Quote:
Originally Posted by xitsam
if i want to solder the BOOST-Controller PINOUTS to the DB15, which PINS have i to brigde to the DB15? IN or OUT?
and djp0623 wrote:
If I remember correctly I jumped PA0 to the IN and the Out I jumped to pin 15 on the DB15. I believe the IN will become more apparent with use of the tunerstudio software. I assume that PA0 will be the value you change to define the max psi/kpa that you want to run.
And this is, what i am doing with it.
If i am wrong, please correct me, i dont know what is realy right, spezialy for the boost-controler thing.