DIYPNP/MTX-L O2 readings
 

I found two other articles that are somewhat similar to the issue im having but not exactly.

Please be patience with me since I'm very new to Megasquirt and tuner studio so i may need some things spelled out. I will be getting the car professionally tuned.

Here are the details:
90 1.6L Miata
550 CC injectors
Reverant built DIYPNP
MTX-L

I want to make sure everything was running properly with the ECU before installing my turbo so i installed the injectors, MTX-L, and ECU while the car is still NA. The car runs fine but the AFRs on tuner studio and the wideband are pretty off. The wideband is connected and grounded off the a piggy-back plug coming out of the MS per Reverant's instructions.

Can anyone please help me get the AFRs on the wideband and Tuner Studio to match???

Thanks everyone

try:

.22v = 7.35
5v = 22.34

as i said earlier, im really stupid. Can you please tell me where i would input these numbers? Also should i be grounding the wideband on the block like everyone else?

tools > calibrate AFR

on the drop down go to the bottom to "custom values" or whatever it is, then type in the ones above. click send/burn.


the ground on the db15 makes its way back to the head.

thank you sir, i will keep you updated!

so my actual AFR is ~15 and tunerstudio is reading 7.2

what color wire from the mtx-l are you feeding the MS?

Reverant supplied me with a plug with a few cables coming out of it and I just had to match them up

Which wideband did you go for and which cables did you connecto to which?

I went with the MTX-L and the wire connections are as follows

MTX-L => DYIPNP

Brwn/Grey => Brown
Black => Black
Red => Red
Yellow => Nothing
White => Nothing
Nothing => Grey

The connections are per the email correspondence we had

see below

Scratch that, yellow from the mtx l needs to be connected to the brown to the diypnp, as stated in number four on pag four seen here:
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...Manual_1.1.pdf

That link also says the calibration numbers that should be entered:

0V = 7.35 AFR and 5V = 22.39 AFR

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...Manual_1.1.pdf

if you look at page 4, white is headlights


1. Connect the RED wire to a switched 12V source. A switched 12V source goes on as
soon as the ignition on the car is on. Make sure the connection is fused with a
minimum fuse size of 3A.

2. Connect the BLACK wire to a ground source. Avoid noisy ground sources, such as
grounds used for radio and or ignition sources.

3. Connect the WHITE wire to a headlight power wire (a wire that supplies current to
the headlights). This enables the display to dim for better nighttime viewing. DO
NOT CONNECT THIS WIRE TO THE HEADLIGHT DIMMING WIRE. Connection to
this rheostat type of switch will cause the gauge to malfunction. If you chose not to
utilize the dimming feature, connect the WHITE wire to ground.

4. Optionally, the YELLOW (Analog out 1) and/or BROWN (Analog out 2) can be
connected to the analog inputs of other devices such as data loggers or ECUs. If
either one or both of these wires are not being used isolate and tape the wire(s) out
of the way. The default analog outputs are as follows: Analog output one (yellow) is
0V = 7.35 AFR and 5V = 22.39 AFR. Analog output two (brown) is 1.1V = 14 AFR
and .1V = 15 AFR. This is a simulated narrowband signal.

fucking beat me to it! Great teamwork guys! lol

do you think i can change the settings to this so i dont have to redo my super nice crimping?

connect to the MTX-L through LMProgrammer and reprogram the output.

i still suggest using .22v = 7.35

If you use the brown wire that you already have crimped it will only show you 14-15 afr, you need to redo it with the yellow wire to get 7.35-22.39, sorry

no. you can program the brown wire to output 0-5v 7.35 to 22.39 and you dont have to touch shit for wiring.

just finished redoing the crimp to the yellow wire, test fire in a few min...

or you can do that.