diypnp screwed wont start
 

Ok so we put it together wired it up(iat/ebc)loaded firmware on the bench. forgot to pull ignitor before loading first tune. Got new ignitor reflashed firmware tune, reset calib and tps. Still no spark. tried new coil no spark. Whats up any suggestions
Please help.

Just tried stock ecu starts. Check engine light is on and because of vtps we installed if you touch throttle it dies but it sparks so the ingitor cas and coil work.

we are getting these errors when we load tune:

10 Warnings:
Warning: egoTarget not in current configuration. Value ignored.
Warning: Parameter in msq, but not valid for current firmware: No options found for Bit EcuParameter:flexport
Warning: Parameter in msq, but not valid for current firmware: No options found for Bit EcuParameter:spk_config_spka
Warning: Parameter in msq, but not valid for current firmware: No options found for Bit EcuParameter:rtbaroport
Warning: Parameter in msq, but not valid for current firmware: No options found for Bit EcuParameter:ego2port
Warning: MSQ Units Mismatch for EAElagRPMmax! rpm found in current configuration, rpms found in MSQ, values were not converted to new units.
Warning: Parameter in msq, but not valid for current firmware: No options found for Bit EcuParameter:tacho_opt3f
Warning: Parameter in msq, but not valid for current firmware: No options found for Bit EcuParameter:launch_opt_pins
Warning: Parameter in msq, but not valid for current firmware: No options found for Bit EcuParameter:N2Oopt_pins2
Warning: Parameter in msq, but not valid for current firmware: No options found for Bit EcuParameter:N2Oopt_pins

Got it running. The boost controler was set to on and we set it to off and it fixed the system config problem.
I think there might me something off with my timing. We checked the key way before starting this process and it was fine if any thing there was slack in the pulley on the timing pulley key way. It seemed to move a couple of degrees. Anyway. It really liked 16-17* degrees fixed timing and had great throttle response when just reving it in neutral. at 10* it barely ideled and even after I change the timing table back so ms controled it it had a noticeable hestitation in the throttle response.
Before on the stock comp it ran best at 16* which always seemed high to me but you could tell a huge diff.
Anyway the timing pulley key way is on and the car start! YEAH

Dude...:facepalm:

Set the timing to 10 degrees fixed, then advance it in the tuning studio software in non-fixed timing. The Megasquirt bases it's calculations on where your timing would be @ 10 degrees fixed. You've effectively added at least 6 degrees of timing throughout the map by doing that.

From what you've described, I think you've got something wrong in the timing somewhere.

soo, did you set the trigger angle?

No we set the base timing at 10 like the instructions say. from what I am told you tune
1. start up
2. idle
3 afr
4. timing
5. accel enrichment

but I sure dont know that just my newb understanding

First you need to set the trigger angle under Basic setup->Tach input/Ignition settings.

This tells the ecu at which angle the crankshaft is at relative to TDC when it gets a signal from your crank or cam angle sensor.

You would set this with the stock ECU by rotating the CAS but with the MS you can configure it with software. (you could also rotate the CAS to achieve the same thing).

So the procedure is to set the timing to fixed so that it gives a constant timing value and ignores your ignition map. Then use a timing light (you will need a timing light) and adjust the trigger angle in tunerstudio until the timing that you read with the timing light matches the fixed timing that the MS is outputting.

Once you have done this, you can set the ecu back to using the table for timing and it should run a lot better now.

There is also a 'trigger wizard' under the tools that you can use to set the trigger angle. It's just a different interface for changing the trigger angle.

This probably does a better job of explaining things

http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_arti...ing_how_to.htm

datalog of this excelent throttle responce?

I am sorry that is what I did and what I was trying to explain
"No we set the base timing at 10 like the instructions say"

My bad.

The throttle response was with the base timing at 17* and that is not right I am told but hell i feel so lost with this thing i dont know.
I do know that when you pin the gas it hesitates for a half seconds then revs. I have tried changing the timing a little in the maps but want to get a det can of some type before I mess something up. I know the car is not faster than before with bandaids but It will be I just have to give my self time to figure everything out and read read read.
Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks

needs more gas. probably need to tune the accel enrichments.

Ah sorry, I misunderstood.

What are your trigger angle and offset set to now?

I am not sure I used trigar wizard and it is set a 5.5 to get the timing light to show 10 with fixed turned on.

My personal experience was that it was much easier to directly turn the CAS rather than ---- with the Megasquirt to set the timing properly, 90.

Secondly, are you certain your timing is 100% correct? I had the biggest headache ever with my timing, and it was because I was off one tooth. I even had the same problems you described in this thread, down to the hesitation on throttle and had to add stupid amounts of timing (7+ degrees) to get it to run as you describe.

Blaen99 please explain the problem you had and how you fixed it. where you off a tooth on the actual timing belt/cam or on the megasquirt (I dont know how that would happen so please tell me if that is it).
I think you are right I am having the same problem but dont know how to fix it.

thanks

Brian

That reminds me, I got pretty confused with the trigger setup when I was setting up my DIYPNP because I'd read that the MS requires the trigger point to be in a certain range - this didn't turn out to be true in my case, possibly for a different version of MS or firmware?

But during this I did rotate my CAS a bit to try and get it into that range and I noticed that with the CAS in the 'stock' position, the timing would jump every few seconds (as seen by the timing light) whereas in one of the other positions it was rock solid.

Kinda curious about this but I ended up keeping the CAS in the stock position and overall it seems to run ok. I think I'll try rotating it again this weekend and changing the trigger angle again.

All I can tell you is read the FSM on the timing belt. I had to re-do it with the best mechanic I know something like 5 times to finally get everything lined up right. Just follow the instructions exactly, and if something seems off at all, just restart. "Close enough" translates to being off a tooth in my experience, don't go for "close enough".