EBC Rules... and loves to stay 100% duty 100% of the time :p
 

So yah.... ebc mod. GM solenoid. Car not started, just on and plug in solenoid... it clicks over. This is with map that has js2 turned to output1. Turn it to Boost (burn to ecu) and its on. Turn it back to output1 and reburn... goes off... turn car on... goes back to on all the time. This is physically on and green light ON in MT.

What component might be toast? With MS outta car, I checked for continuity through FET... nothing... so it should be switching?

Help! I wanna add boost and get back to dyno/track etc....

even with all your boost DC cells set to zero it's on?

Even with its output turned off in Outputs settings... its on physically and the green Output1/Boost spot in MT. (even with car not running, just in ON position)

This is the first EBC related problem I've ever heard of from MS.


Kidding. I have no idea, but I can assure you you're not alone!

My only advice. Burn changes, turn car off. Turn car on, crank car, then see if it's working.

From Memory, the FET doesn't "switch" per say, but rather grounds a pin when told to (by the processor). Then again, I'm not looking at the schematics.

you sure its not contacting an adjacent pin on the db37? mine was and did just that. i think. it was a while ago.

just remembered. mine was contacting the pin for the wb02. so when i plugged in the ebc my AFR would go nuts and the ebc was on constantly

I'll re-cont test things. Fairly sure I tested the wiring making sure it was only grounding where it was supposed to.

IE: not to surrounding pins. not across FET while depowered, not to anything else i could find or think of.

Just checked for errant grounds. Nothing to report. Continuity between fet body and middle pin. No continuity between any pins directly. No continuity between endpoint of wiring by db37 and surrounding pins. Going to check internal wiring I guess... but i checked that before and it is just 2 wires... + diode. Is there any way to test diode? But that wouldn't effect the ground/power circuit if broken... so yah...

Eww Eww Eww. I just remembered. I've seen many times where Chad was having pure hell getting EBC to work. It refused to work on the stim. Then he put it on the car and presto, it was working. Might try it. :)

Oh... it's been on car. I nail boost cut nice and quick :p. Whats driving me nuts... is even turning car off... turning the Boost output to Output 1 (turning it off), reburning map to car... and then going... it's still On.

Only way to turn if off right now... is unplug the solenoid.

ALSO, just went out and with the MS OUT of the car... I turned it to the ON position and plugged solenoid in... nothing. So it is somehow the MS wiring or the MS code.

Post the schematic for EBC. For the life of me I can't find it.

Yup, thats the right deal. Double checked it all last round (after I had forgotten the 10K).

Ok, from memory, if you put +5V on the gate, then the FET will connect the source to the drain. That means it will turn on the solenoid. If you remove 5V+ from the gate, then the 10K resistor between ground and gate will pull the gate back to zero volts, and disconect the source from the gate.

You should try this to bench test the circuit to see if it's doing this. If it is, then MS isn't outputing the signal to the gate correctly.

Just checking, you are using a ten thousand ohm resistor for 10K and a one hundred ohm resistor for 100, right? Are you sure you have the FET wired correctly? The gate is the only one that matters, I think.

Funny, if you didn't have the 10K on there, then yeah it will come on and never go off. That's why you have the 10K resistor there. It pulls the gate voltage back down after MS turns off the supply to it. If you don't pull the voltage back down, it will just stay on. Kinda like turning on a valve. I don't go off unless you shut it.

If the FET grounds on the heatsink it wont work.

Yah, i rechecked the resistors one night and added in the 10k. Checked them for proper stripping and resistance.

Also, FET sits straight up above the prototyping area atm. Touches nothing.

10k = brown/black/orange/gold
and
100ohm = brown/black/brown/black

in their respective proper places.

Anymore thoughts?

Yeah, why don't you tell us if you bench tested the circuit as I outlined how to do? How are we supposed to help you troubleshoot if you don't tell us what you tried and what you tested to be known working?

I no longer have a stim... so the car is my bench. My things tested are just like bench testing... which is done when you are unsure of car condition or wire harness etc... that isn't an issue for me.

Honestly at this point I'm suspecting that the issue is the software or the map itself. The fact that MT retains the ON status for the output even with it turned to OUTPUT1 vs Boost leads me that way.

I've also given alot of details as to what has been tested... i'm guessing that wasn't obvious as I went through each format/round of testing I did?

I'll do more tested as suggested this evening... sorta running out of things to test though. Having done reburns of maps, checked/rechecked/rerechecked/rererechecked the circuit and pinouts and wiring.