EBC Settings
 

I know this has been discussed quite frequently on here already, but has anyone had issues with not being able to tune out the boost overshoot? I have P set super high (170 to 199) and it doesnt seem to help, even with D set high (50 up to 190). I have even tried those high settings with a little and a lot of I, and it all doesnt seem to matter how it reacts. I have a TD04H that is set to target 180 (12psi) in closed loop duty, and it continually shoots way past to 16+psi. Any ideas?

I am in the same boat with you. Internal or external gate? I am going to switch from running the dual port on my tial EWG to just the side. The same way an internal should be set up from the solenoid.

its internal. I have thought that maybe the DIYautotune's EBC documentation could be wrong, cause i have checked everything. Funny too, even long 4th gear pulls it will overshoot, but when i am out on I-70 and can open her up with long 5th gear pulls it tends to be more steady, so i dont think it has anything to do with my closed loop map. Sucks too, cause i havent hooked up a TPS, so i have to put all my map values in the 0 TP row across all rpm columns

Just got back and no change for me besides slower spool. Open loop is fine and CL is still over boosting even with my EWG plumbed like an IWG.

So, just out of curiosity, what did your open loop map look like? What duty % was close to 12psi? That's my last resort as of now, and with this stock 1.6L hitting 16psi cant be good, not to mention the fuel cut jerk at 6K...

someone who doesnt have EBC himself working shouldn't be "helping" :)

wolfram, see my responce in red93's thread on the same damn topic.

I saw your post in a similar thread and started with 180 P and I and D at 0. I still overshoot the target considerably. I tried 200 with same result. Whats up with the settings above that for Open Loop % and Closed Loop %. Both of those are set to Zero.

you need to set open duty to 100%, bro. and use 39Hz or whatever the selction is.

so if i am using closed loop, i need to set closed loop to 0, and open loop to 100% in those two fields?

that's closed wastegate DUTY and Open wastegate DUTY.

that's the DUTY cycle of the wastegate. The software requires that the closed value must be lower than open, and since the solenoid at 100%DC would keep the wastegate fully closed, you must select inverted. If the solenoid is at 0%, boost passes through fully and keeps the wastegate open at wastegate levels.

Is there a way to cycle the solenoid to see if it's even working?

use open loop mode, set the table for 50% or something, get it to activate at idle, put your ear to it and listen for rapid clicking.

Well i guess i found my problem. No clicking. :vash:

how's it hooked up?

should have one wire on a switched 12v supply.

then the other goes back to the MS.

Does this look normal? Sorry, for stealing my thread back. This is the only way i can get close to hitting 12ish and it holding. It still fluctuates a bit from 9 to 12psi up in the 5-6.3K range, but its about as close as i can get it. Any ideas on what could be wrong, or tips on my PID numbers? On my data logs i show the boost duty all over the place going from 0 to 100 every .5 seconds. Doesnt seem right, but its the only way i can get it close to working normally. See attached screenshot for my PID values. I have 180 in every cell above 3500rpm's all the way up and out of my table.

what firmware?

P and I should end up a lot closer to 30, and D closer to 100.

Just to give some more detail. When i start with 200 for P, and 0's for I and D. I get about 5psi that holds steady. When i start to lower it it will hit 5psi then oscillate (pulse or surge about one psi at a time upwards. When i lower it more it will pulse to a higher final psi. This is when i start adding D, but that high 185 number is the best i could do for it to stop pulsing. That just seems awfully high. The I then finally smoothed it out as best i could. Just doesnt seem solid or correct for that matter.

Not sure on the Firmware, as i am not in front of it now. It was the standard FW that came with the PNP i bought directly from DIY about 6 weeks ago...

you're not doing it correctly.

Tuning the P term is solely to get to your target, increasing I will hold it to redline.

You should tune P only by spooling the turbo, you shouldn't need ot go any higher than 5000RPM and you should probably just use 2nd or 3rd gear.

Spool up, check peak level. and keep lowering P until you've breeched your boost target. Only then should u move into tuning I, then D.

I have tried that similar approach with quick spools in 2nd gear, but it always overshoots. Its strange that at 200 it will quickly get to 5 then pulse onwards. I would assume this to be the 5psi range equivalent of that P value. Moving P downward yields about the same results, but there is no linear factor (it seems). Suddenly going from 150 to 145 will allow full boost all the way to 15+ before the boost cut kicks in. It will spool quickly to 15+ with a value of 145, but with 150 it shoots to 5 and pulses its way up like it did with the 200 value. Do the closed duty and open duty numbers of 0 and 100 respectively need any tweaking? Just seems very strange.

Thread jacking here.

I have that wacky unit that you built, and got hacked up. My EBC is hooked to the stock purge valve that is no longer in use for ease of wiring.

I am only questioning these other numbers based on what i have seen. My boost duty when it starts pulsing up and down one or two psi in the 9-14 range shows a direct relation to the boost duty going from 0 to 100 very quickly back and forth. Wondering if there is a better way to shrink the upper and lower bounds of the PID equation to get any "smoother" boost duty. First time tuning a EBC so feel free to tell me i am full of crap. I am open to all quality input.

How do i set my boost control pin to PA0 when it's not an option?

So i think i have made some progress. I now have 8 as a P value (I guess i never bothered going low enough). This now spools quickly to 12psi, then stays pretty steady for a while and begins to creep further in the rpm range. Does this value make any sense? It actually runs pretty well with P at 8, I at 0, and D at 15. Are these values reasonable, or am i still lost?

add I and see if it helps combat creep.

Hate to beat the issue here, but i cannot for whatever reasons find a happy place with any of the PID values. The 8 to maybe 10 values for P were consistent in 2nd and 3rd gear to not over shoot, but when i make subtle corrections to I and D to get it right 3rd, 4th and 5th gear pulls go shooting way past. So then i start over with a higher P that is consistent for 4th and 5th gear and my 2nd and 3rd gear boost is jacked. What am i missing, or what else can be done? I am about to go back to my ol' ball and spring...

It drove me nuts too, so yeah thats what I did back to MBC

Hope someone is still following this thread. I made it back to closed loop tuning after i got open loop working well. My problem is now combating the boost oscilation. Works pretty well, but my boost duty curve needs to be smoothed. Been a while since i have done any "real" math, but what PID value will smooth this out? I assume its the derivative as it should smooth the slope of the curve. PID values are as follows:

P - 17
I - 18
D - 98

Attached is my log. I had a lower D value around 20 and kept increasing to see if it helped. It did not. Am I working with the wrong value for this? Should i be increasing I instead? I would guess if i increase I i'll need to bump P along with it. How much I and D is too much for the P value of around 15-20? These P values are what is necessary to get it to get up to the desired target, so I imagine my I and D values would be smaller in proportion to someone with a much higher initial P value. Thoughts?

Here are my BC settings. I have the DIY EBC. Their documentation says to use 20ms and the 19.5Hz settings. Should i be working with something else? This seems to work fairly well in open loop, so i was hesitant to change them for closed loop.

For what its worth, i may as well attach my boost table... LOL.

Should i have gradual build up for this, instead of just pegging it at a decent TP? I figured for testing i would at least have it smooth across the board.

Any input would be great, Thanks!!

I love how these threads always end with no resolution. So what did you end up doing?

Hello.
I had a similar complication tuning CL.

This may, or may not help, but just start from post #14
https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...ng-tips-71182/
It explains how to get it where you want it in a very understandable way.

You will most likely have overshoot no matter what.
But by how much? I'm overshooting by 1-2psi. Can u live with that?
Slow climb it's dead on, but you will see it when downshifting mostly.

Using KPA it looks huge, but it's almost nothing.
Perhaps you can compensate by lowering target slightly and raise it back
to sorta smooth over the spike.

In my experience it's difficult to completely tune out spike.

If you completely tune out the spike it will oscillation, then tune out the
oscillation and it will spike.....

Both of those settings will be fighting each other it's a never ending cycle,
so just start from scratch and get it smooth and if it's 1-2psi spike I think it's OK.


My settings:
P-21
I-30
D-140

Some of the numbers are allot high only because I was chasing my tail on
the unbreakable oscillation/spiking cycle for a bit.

Then you can have fun like this after you get it down solid.:party:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1366860584

I have left it on Open Loop for now. The open loop seems to be running really well. No overshoot and rock solid. Maybe later this summer once it warms up, I'll give it another shot.

Just take the little time you need to test it out.
CL should be the only option. :)

You tune it in 4th gear and it'll boost overshoot in 5th
and get very low boost in 1-2-3rd.

Or if you tune it in 2nd gear and decide to give it a nice 150mph run it'll
over shoot like crazy.

yeah, youll want to when youre down 3-4psi when it's warmer due to your laziness.

Yes, that too.

Another thought is tuning on the freeway with all that resistance and finally getting it
to a stable 20psi, then on the dyno, boost drops down to 17 perhaps.

It did on mine anyway. Not very consistent is the point.
CL is completely bad-ass, holding target all the time, even while smoking the tires.
The car will be faster just by getting constant boost. Hope this is convincing. :2cents:

I guess i was just waiting for some decent (consistant temps) here in Denver. So if try to tune it again for CL, the ambient temps are almost irrelevant right? I am putting in a new IC soon, so i think i'll wait after that anyway...

ambient temps are irrelevant.