Enormous problem, bigger headache.
 

93 Eunos Roadster(same as miata)

Manual Trans
1.6 Automatic 9:1 comp engine(stock)
MS1, using the recommended HR-10 hi res firmware
Using tunerstudio, but will use anything at this point.
Wells TPS mod, done as writeup shows....
t25 Sr20det redtop turbo unit
AEM xx-4100 wideband with guage
afm delete
GM AIT sensor, wired properly
F/P jumped properly.
90 RX7 NON TURBO Hi imp. 460cc injectors.
v mount IC setup, with surge tank, rad cap welded closed on rad
ms running as standalone(on its own)
Now, The issue is,
BTW, according to whom i bought my ms from, brain checked it all and made the harness, aswel.
https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...ght=megasquirt

The car LEAAAAANS out hardcore, idling. like 14...15.16.5......17....19....
over the span of maybe 10 secs.

What the fuck is wrong?!?!?!! I cant figure this out. Im trying to get it so i caqn move the car at least. Ive had some handy folks have a look already, and one guy got itto idle by richening the ve fuel table up hardcore(like redic) so it stays around 14ish, but it goes up and down.(13-15.5)

Ive tried everything. basemaps, none have worked, at all.

Someone Please help me!

(ps, ive combined my threads into one lovely condensed "my car is fucked"thread. )


Anyone?

Do you have the chassis ground and ECU ground on your wideband setup properly? Make sure all your enrichment settings are off during initial tune. You could be adding a lot with the warmup enrichment settings.

I should split the grounds for the wideband? I have the ground tied into the ground wire in the harness that goes to the ecu.

So in other words

ground aem to floor
ground aem to harness
ground to ecu(in harness ground to ecu)

Post an MSQ and a log would be a start...

I've got one AEM wire grounded to the head. This is where my diypnp grounds because it uses factory harness ground, Then I have the other grounded to the chassis.

Here was my msq. 1.6, stock, 2560R, fmic, stock coils, ~440cc injectors, high imp, still had the fan switched by the stock sender on front of head, stock fuel pressure/pressure regulator, 93 octane, 1.6 IAC. It idled well, fairly conservative timing map iirc, ran a little fat on the big end. Probably could have used a little cold start tuning.

This msq should work to at least get you started, etc. Common disclaimers apply, I am not responsible for you blowing up your engine, etc. You probably shouldn't get into much boost without some tuning.

I would wonder about your wbo2 indicating that lean condition, because mine starts at stoic then climbs to 20+ without exhaust running past it. Did you calibrate it, etc? Is this the same way it behaves without the engine running?

Also, what do your cold start/afterstart enrich look like? Maybe the map is really lean, and it's only at stoic when it first starts because it's in cold/after start, then once it gets out of cold/after, it leans out as per the map. When you try to richen it up, does it stink like rich/shoot soot out of the exhaust?

I don't think the ground alone would cause it to indicate so funky, that would just give you the usual non-matching wbo2 gauge v MS logging numbers.

One more thing. I think in the exhaust constants menu make sure your gego or whatever the closed loop wbo2 settings are called, you set the lower rpm limit to above your idle speed, or the MS will attempt to adjust mixture based on o2 feedback, and it can lead to some instability. You should at least have this in open loop while you are still twiddling with the base map, and put it in closed loop if you want if/when your idle mixture is stable and idle is solid.

so these are the issues

the car starts and runs once it is out of the afterstart enrichment it starts to lean out

Ive maxxed out the ve table in the area of where it idles to get it to idle beyond 30 secs but it is very irregular afrs are bouncing all over seems to cycle every 10 seconds lean then rich

ive tryed disabling the autotune function it makes no difference


I got the timing setup properly i used a timing light and got it dead on, did it by adjusting the fixed angle

so it idles rough and its searching, tryed unplugging the Bac/Iacv samething i cannot get a smooth idle out of it

a light blip on the gas results in fuel cut dead lean but will stumble back to an idle i tryed to use the accel enrichment function but it made almost no difference even maxed out

at this point i'm thinking the unit is cooked, bad fuel pump, bad injectors or a wiring gremlin

ive played around with the req fuel setting i had it up to 12-14 then i could make the map look kinda normal but it would run the same way

the data logs are attached

(this is Tracktestedmiatas friend)

Why -2 for TPS and never changing in the data 3 log? Is that like a 1.6 thing? And spark angle?

for 440s on a 1.6, I think req fuel should be about 6.1

what do you mean by spark angle?

the -2, we adj the tps but it might have moved, ever so slightly. Thats fine, or do we neeed to re calibrate?

anyone?

Dude, what?

Forget about the tps for now. What is the deal with your spark angle flatlining? In megatune, open your msq and click on spark, then spark settings, and make sure your fixed angle is -10. If it's not -10 the ms will not use your spark map, it'll just provide fixed timing at whatever number you provide there. I thought you said you set base timing. I almost guarantee you didn't do that correctly.

Hey, and did you even try my msq? I'd bet you'd get a runner with that one. I have the desire to help you and berate you at the same time. I will interject my next post to you with belittlement.

Correct me if I'm wrong here, but wasn't there something funky about the 93 miata's and its fuel or ignition? I wanna say it was the california cars had something different than the other cars. Maybe this applies to his also. There's a mod that has to be done to the 93 ms's to get them to work.

Here's the 93 and MS thread:

https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquirt-18/warning-before-you-add-ms-your-93-miata-32367/

His msq does have -10 for fixed angle, and his advance map doesn't have -1 in the cells, yet the spark angle in the log is stuck at one value all the way through. I'm not sure that would cause his problems, but that seems very strange to me.

Go through the steps and explain how you set the base timing. Did you select fixed timing and then adjust the CAS? Did you leave CAS alone and tweak spark angle? CAS could be bad if no advance is ocurring after you set MS to use spark map.

For clarity, My fixed angle is 10 degrees, not -10 in tunerstudio. Then I adjust the CAS until my timing mark lines up with the number 10.

Alternately, you can adjust the spark angle in tunerstudio instead of moving the CAS.

^Funny thing is, in his msq the fixed angle is at -10, so the MS SHOULD be responding based on the spark map, and not at a fixed angle.

You forgot to mention that you have to set the fixed angle back to -10 after you set the base timing, otherwise it will be "fixed" at +10, or whatever you set with the CAS.

What tuning software are you/he using? In tunerstudio you select "fixed timing" set what you want this to be. The default is 10 for miata base map. Once base timing is set, change "fixed timing" to "Use table" I don't have to change anything to -10.

If he set his base timing by adjusting his trigger angle, and then loaded someone elses map. He would have to adjust his trigger angle in the new map. If he tried to run it "as is" the timing would be off. Another point for: "Reasons not to blindly uploaded other peoples maps."

I'm wondering if this could be the culprit. Did he adjust the trigger angle in your map to match his setup?

Ah. Megatune uses a fixed timing value of -10 to "use map." So, with Megatune you set fixed timing to +10 and change trigger angle until you get to +10 on the dampener with your timing light, then change it back to -10 and MS will set spark angle according to your map.

I don't even know if he used my map at all. I just found it odd that the spark angle in the log didn't change at all. Maybe this dude should be left to his own destructive devices at this point?

Well, with our posts, i think we have done our part. We have explained how to set base timing then get back to reading the spark table in two different tuning softwares. If advance still does not occur, then I would start looking at bad CAS.

"I love it when a plan comes together."

Cali cars have sequential fuel iirc. JDM is batch fire.

still doesn't solve why his timing output is stuck at -0.2°

Is your req_fuel 5.8? I run 5.7 on 550cc! Your required fuel is too low. Try 7.1

Also don't use you AFR targets with the table set up like that. You're averaging 17-1 with your idle cells at 19.8-1. It will never run like that.

I think you need to work on your spark table too. 30 deg. advance at idle might be considered a bit aggressive.

Your cranking pulse widths are backwards, PW should increase as it gets colder.

Do you have a second map sensor fitted? MS thinks you do.

You need to go over all your tables and make sure they are appropriate for your setup!

Hello All im the guy trying to help out TTM i've been going crazy on his car I Know emanage ultimate, Chrome, neptune, Hondata and alittle about haltechs

So ive been trying to help get his car running

okay So Im trying to learn about the megasquirt with him

to get the Timing mark on the pully to line up the fixed timing need to be adjusted im looking at it now im thinking i should have played with the trim angle... but i think the car started to die when i touched that can't remember

even if the timing was locked at 10 degrees the car should at least idle nice? what would it have to do with the afr's?

touch the gas it dies in a heartbeat it has fuel cut

I changed the req fuel up to around 9-10 and it was able to idle but only at 200% ve....

I dont know if its been mention the car is a JDM RHD miata using a jumper harness between the megasquirt and ORIGINAL engine harness I'm wondering if there is something slightly different a wire grounded differently or a resistor somewhere in the harness

change your base timing at the CAS instead of doing it in the software.
aka when it reads 10 degrees in the software, your car is seeing 10 degrees.

having tuned all of the other systems you have, that should have always been the starting point you do on any ems.

You guys sound like you should give it to someone who knows something about the systems.

At -10 no matter how much we move the cas it will not come into the timing marks to get into the timing marks it had to be adjusted in the Megasquirt

TTM is trying to find a local guy that can come out and look at it, he is willing to pay, just doesn't want to pay a shop price

at -10 you dont have anything on the crank pully and from what i understand with your timing map at 30 degrees you wont read anything.

Set static timing to 10 degrees POSITIVE and try.

Ok, or pay someone... neither of you know.
Most reputable shops i have messaged stay away from MS since so much relies on setting it up properly from assembly to wiring etc.

The unit is fine. We cannot get the timing within the timing marks. Why do we need to get someone that knows about the system. Weve had 3 fluent megasquirters and have not been able to figure it out.

I wouldn't rule that out just yet. I'd try to find someone in your area that has a 1.6 with an MS and swap their known working unit into yours. I've seen harnesses have broken solders inside and also boards.

Have you double checked to make sure that the timing mark you are using is correct? i.e. it lines up to the TDC mark when you are at TDC. Alignment nub on crank pulley is at 12 oclock, cam sprocket marks are lined up.

The crank pulley on my engine that the precious owner put on has timing marks that are 180 off. (May not have been a miata pulley) I had to mark it manually.

I would double check crank pulley marks at TDC. You may have a situation like me where you have to mark TDC on your crank pulley manually.

Sooo imma gunna Kill TTM..... He told me the pump was wired okay he did some wiring jiggabo shit

I finally got my Voltmeter back and got to finally test it gets what? Fuel pump wasnt getting power it would get power when cranking so it would fire then voltage would completely drop off....

I ran a wire Directly from the battery to the pump and it ran perfect on a map that was given to him

the hesitation i could work on now since it was running, was the Accel enrich was on the map sensor, swapped it to the tps mint runs good now

ran out of day light and need to finish up the exhaust and bleed the rad better, and wire in a relay for the pump...

Ive got a spare rx7 FD knock sensor here will it thread into that hole under the intake manifold? (that is in the block)I wouldn't mind wiring that in to help further along tuning (anyone know the settings/freq for it)



Also Im very close to giving up My Turbo FC for a miata i just love how this thing looks lol

johnny wired it, not me!