Freshly squirted noob needs a little help...
 

Hi all,

been floating around a week or so reading up on the MS stuff and now i need some help.

I've just (only today) fitted the MS in the car and have a couple of problems -

Idle control valve is disconnected. This is the only way the car will idle. When its connected the car idles normally for warmup then shoots up to 2.5k-3k rpm. I've tried the diode across the pins on the idle valve connector (as per the megasquirt build) however this makes no difference at all.

Went for a 25 mile (with the idle control valve disconnected) blast, dual carriageway, b roads and abit of traffic and the car seems fine, albeit running rich.

Am i doing the car any damage with this disconnected? I've checked my MS idle settings against a friends and they are the same, only difference is I have 1.8 injectors on a 1.6 engine.

I've fitted my wideband (Stack) yet i've been told i need to set the centre voltage, anyone know what these figures are? Or how to set up the Stack wideband with MS?

I'm a total noob with all this stuff and need simple instructions!

Thanks in advance guys, i'm sure they'll be someone out there who will no what i need to do.

Mel

EDIT - i'm using tunerstudio and its an MS DIY version 1.

Id say your injectors but we will wait and see what brain has to say he should know.

Have you changed your injector settings to the 1.8 size? If not it's no surprise you're running rich and no surprise it's dieing. The MS is trying to idle your car thinking it's using 1.6 injectors. If you did change the injector settings, then I have no f'ing idea.

Just put a filter on the idler valve, is what I did, as per Brain cars running map dont need metered air.

I am the other guy "helping" him with this. Yes we changed the injector flow rate settings to account for the larger injectors. Its damn strange, we both built our ms's to brain's directions, mine works fine with the idle air valve plugged in. His stars ok (no tuning as of yet) and idles where it should for about 25-20 seconds, then suddenly it will shoot up to around 2500 or so and sit there. Unplug the IAC and its not a prob.

As you say buffon, is it not even needed? frankly it runs pretty damn good with it unplugged, if he/we don't need it then why do we all bother with the PWM mods to get it working?