Golferlukes megasquirt... take two
 

Some of you might remember I tried to build a ms3 at the end of the summer and never got it running. :noob: Well I got tired of of the frustrastion and decided to go the diypnp route. Since I was chasing my tail on the ms3 project while the group buy was going on I missed it and I'm having to do it all myself. I'm following the DIY autotune write up but I had just a couple of questions.

I've just followed the basic "main board assembly" on the diypnp.com site and now that its completed I plan on following the 99-00 specific instructions. Is that the correct path to take? I just installed everything the instructions said to, assuming if I had stuff I don't need (ie boost control) I can just simply not use it. (I've also installed the pullups but thats about it as far as 99 specific stuff goes)

Does it matter what row of holes on the adapter board I solder the jumper wires into? (:noob: question I know)

I have plenty of 12v power cords laying around. Can I use one of them that fits for the diypnp? The power cord I was thinking of using is off my external hard drive and the output is 12v-2A.

Ok last question right now is about the I/O Circuits. In the guide it shows:
Relay 1 _____ Mainboard PA0 ______ ConnectorBoard 1R __ Radiator Fan
Input 1 _____ 1P (remove R14) ____ 1S, 1I _____________ A/C Relay & Fan

On the radiator fan I can't seem to find PA0 lol, were is it?
And for A/C I just remove r14 but then what do I jump 1P to? 1S? 1I? Or am I supposed to make some kind of 2 way split between both 1S and 1I?

EDIT:
Oops, uno mas, do I need to do anything special for knock sensing?

Pictars:
Haven't removed r14 yet but heres where I currently sit.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5241/...046b1556_b.jpg
Heres what I had left over, I shouldn't need this stuff right?
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5287/...e2d746fa_b.jpg

Yes, all correct.
No, use whichever is easiest for you. If you're not a believer, break out your DMM and test between the pins for continuity.

The DIYPNP draws in the area of .5-.75A. Our power supply is 12V 1A. I would imagine that your 2A supply would be ok, but that's up to you to make the determination.

10 pin header, top center of board

There are several ways to do it that are all right, but so long as both 1P and 1S are connected to the output side of the Input1 circuit, you're good. One pin is for the a/c compressor relay, the other is for the condenser fan relay.

No, but I'd recommend a knocksenseMS conditioning module.

Here's a link to the thread I started when I built mine. I think if you read it, a lot of your questions will be answered:
https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquirt-18/diypnp-99-a-38806/

Time to get on those jumpers man! I find it easier to remove the microsquirt module when soldering in the jumpers to the mainboard.

Those are all unneeded parts. With possible exception to the 1x2 postion headers. I would install at least one header at the boot load pins on the board, to make it easier to load firmware. The others are for opto ground (not needed for miata) and blue tooth adapter power at the DB9 (cool feature, but I don't think I've ever seen it used).

Great, thank you so much for the help, now that I got food in the belly and a case in the fridge hopefully I'll get this finished up tonight.

If possible I think I'll go with the stock knock sensor unless I really need the other. I'm trying to keep everything stock for now so I can use the stock ecu as well.

I probabbly should have laid out my plans in the first post. My car is completely stock right now besides cops. I have a turbo setup sitting in my closet thats itching to come out but I want to get my engine management handled first. I also have a wideband o2 and gm iat that I will be installing but want to stick to one thing at a time.

So for now I just megasquirt to replace the stock ecu. Then I'll get it working with wideband, then delete the maf, then i should be ready for turbo.

Before I can do any of that though I need to figure out alternator control. As far as I can tell my options are the alt control circuit, external voltage regulator and swapping the alt from an older miata.

I would really like to do the alternator control circuit but theres to many parts that I can't track down without ordering from 10 different places online. My only way to get parts here is radio shack. (Unless somebody has extra and wants to sell me a kit with all the pieces I need:x:)

I'm really leaning towards the external voltage regulator though because its alot cheaper than swapping for a miata alt (plus I can't really get one here, I'll have to drive an hour and spend $100) The only problem with that is grounding, I don't have the tools to drill and tap the holes to mount it. Maybe I could zip tie it and then solder the case to the frame lol? Ghetto with a capitol G but anybody see why it wouldnt work? Napa doesn't have that part number any more but i'm pretty sure this is the same.

Oh one more thing, with the 1.5 I don't need ignition drivers right? cause I didn't get any lol

You don't need the ignition drivers with your setup (They're built in the toyota coils and thats why the toyota cops are popular) Just to clarify, you aren't planning to drive around on the base maps w/ out a wideband right? I haven't looked, but surely newark or digikey have all the parts for the alternator control circuit, shouldn't be that hard to find, but for $14, I wouldn't be scared of an external regulator either... assuming connectors are easy enough to source. But yeah, you're just not going to solder the case to anything, it wouldn't last very long if you ever got it to stick at all (the frame would definitely suck up almost any amount of heat you throw at it). You shouldn't have to tap anything if you can just find a spot to drill through, and just run a nut and a bolt. I'm probably missing something specifig to these regulators though.

No I don't plan on driving untill I have wbo2 installed and maf deleted. the connector is another $8 at oreilllys. I'm kinda liking the volt reg more and more. Less room for user error :P

PS if I can't get this thing up and running I may have to buy a case and come down to lr to have you help me ha ha.

Ok I got all the wiring/jumping done, everything but the ac. But I'm still confused on this. The instructions say 1p to 1s,1i but your saying 1p and 1s and input one's output. I don't know how to explain my question very well so I'll use my amazing ms paint skills.
Left? Right? Neither?
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5243/...93c0be42_b.jpg

Do it, I'm actually free this weekend (by free I mean my family is out of town btw), goal is to get the timing belt done and maybe tap the oil pan (motor is on a stand). Thats of course assuming you can get everything else done :) You're on the home stretch though, if you can get it idling, throw the stock ecu back on and I'll be glad to help you tune it.


BTW, you run 1p to the IN port or input 1, neither picture is correct, lol. You're close though, the out pin goes to 1S and 1I. I would wire OUT from input 1 to 1S, then jumper 1l to 1S on the other set of pads so you don't have to run two wires.

Think about it.....

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5243/...93c0be42_b.jpg





























NONE. The spreadsheet clearly says the input 1 - Out Pin Should go to both 1s and 1i. the IN PIN should be 1p.

Oooh I get it now I wasn't reading the spreadsheet correctly. Gotta re wire relay 1 as well now. Thanks guys.



Ianferrell I'm free as well, I'll try and get this up and running today. If I do I'll get in touch with you, I'm sure you could use an extra set of hands for the timing belt too.

Ok everything is wired up now and then when I went to load firmware...

shit balls:vash:
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5162/...a9aab0e9_b.jpg
I can see it fine in device manager, it was originally comm port 5, 3 and 4 are used, I tried using both 1 and 2 but no dice. I'm using firmware 303y, should I be using an older one? the guide says MS2/Extra 3.0.3 || 9-12-09 but I couldn't find one that old.

I'm on vista 32bit, I understand xp would probabbly be easier but theres nothing I can do about that.

Vista should be fine, what usb-> serial adapter are you using? You need to go to device manager and figure out what port its actually on. If you're still having problems I can help you tomorrow, worst case I have an extra usb-> serial that uses the ftdi chipset (which is the best if anyone is looking, screw anything prolific, mixed results out of those at best)

You should just go ahead and load the 3.1 firmware from msextra.com, and then load the diypnp base map on top of that (which is 3.0.3 something) (3.1 firmware http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewto...p?f=91&t=38966 remember to tell it microsquirt module)


edit: Yeah, if you're using the port that device manager says, its almost certainly your usb->serial adapter... Go ahead and get on ebay and search for 'usb serial ftdi' they're more expensive, but who cares because the work, everytime. On second thought I don't really have an 'extra' though I have another cable that might work better, but I might be able to loan you one or at least just get the thing up and running/do some tuning with a ftdi cable.

ok i'll look into 3.1.
Heres the one I'm using.
http://sabrent.com/v2/usb-2-0-to-ser...le-1-ft-cable/

Yeah. prolific ftl. You can try finding the latest drivers for it, that helps some people. Speaking from experience though, I wouldn't waste much time on it because them er crappy. Get your wideband wired in and MAP hose in there (haven't done one on an NB, its a mild PITA on an NA). What wideband do you have? Really, you could swap over to it, just leave the factory connector disconnected, you'll get a CEL and maybe slightly worse mileage but it'll be fine and we can start tuning sooner. (if its a lc1 or anything with dual outputs you could actually set it to output NB for the factory ECU, and then reprogram it for the DIYPNP... On my car I spliced into the factory O2 wire on the harness side of the ecu connector, so that I don't have a separate connector just for that signal, not a big deal with a DIYPNP, but with a 'boomslang' type setup on a car that will never have the factory ECU again it makes sense.

http://www.ashlux.com/wordpress/wp-c...at_success.png
I was on msextra going through the serial setup instructions to see if i missed something. I used the port checker, well my ms showed up on port two but device manager said port one, well I tried running the .bat on port two while device manager said "com1" and it worked :bigtu:


EDIT: Ya I have a lc1 but no gauge. I'll have to do some reading, I don't really know how to install it.

Tunerstudio. Lc1s are easy enough, some ppl bitch but they work. I wish you had an NA as I've figured out the perfect easy way to install them in almost no time :) Trick is to use the power window connector for the 5a feed and ground lines (they're the big wires) Then run the o2 connector through the body shift boot, and leave the lc1 under the console. To get the best signal, you want to run the other ground line as close to the ecu as you can get (and if you run an analog gauge you'll want to use the same ground point so they'll read the same). On my car I just spliced into the oe harness right in front of the ecu connector, its safe to pulled switch 12v off there too because its only like 100 ma max on that line... you could even run the 'logic' power and ground through the db15 connector in diypnp, but it clearly wouldn't work if you went back to the OE ecu at that point.

Just to clarify, as the LC1 instructions aren't super clear (they say to run the grounds to the same spot)

* LC-1 with 6 stripped ends:
o Red 12V supply -
(this is the line that needs to be good for 5a)
o Blue Heater Ground
(this is just a chasis ground that needs to be good for 5a, can just put a ring terminal on it and stick it on a convenient bolt)
o White System Ground
(small wire, This wire needs to be close to the ECU so there isn't voltage drift)
o Yellow Analog out 1 - gauge, megasquirt, etc.
(both of these outputs are programable, you can set one for NB, or whatever you want)
o Brown Analog out 2 - gauge, megasquirt, etc.
o Black Calibration wire -
(follow instructions)

First of all, thanks for everyones help so far, I realize I don't know much about this and I appreciate you guys holding my hand through this ha ha. Ok I've been trying to figure out how I'm going to wire up the lc1, I think the plan is just mount the box in the engine bay on the flat area under the brake master cyl. Maybe somebody can chime in with words of wisdom.

12v= I don't know where I'll find one
blue ground= some bolt on the motor
white ground= different bolt on motor (where is the ecu ground?)
yellow signal= Just tap it into existing o2 wire signal wire? Then I won't have to run anything through the firewall.

From what I've been reading the grounds need to be grounded to the same thing, but not on the same bolt correct?

Where's your o2 bung

Stock o2 bung, about 7-8 inches down the stock manifold. Can see it from the top of the engine bay.

Ran into another little problem, is there good place on nbs to run the map line?

Wideband is in!

Yup, much thanks to Ian! Now I just have to control the alternator and figure out how to run the map hose.

It finally was above freezing and not raining so I got some stuff done. Ran the (correct) map hose. Turns out where the harness goes through the firewall theres a rubber seal around the wires so I took a broadhead and poked a hole then just poked the hose through. After that I wired the wideband to the harness (with a quick disconnect so I can disconnect it if i'm running the stock ecu.) I also plugged in my gm iat sensor.

Anyways... should be ready to go now so I unplugged my cops, (don't know if its necessary but the whole reason I have cops is because I melted my coils messing with my original megasquirt) plugged in my megasquirt and hooked it up to my computer but somethings definitely wrong. The tach shows 65k and the tps doesn't register changes. I took a few screen shots to show whats going on.

Heres what happens when I try to do calibrate the tps.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5094/...0a72c8d7_b.jpg

So I tried reloading the msq, heres the errors I get
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5132/...1c72b2b4_b.jpg
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5055/...85efb5d8_b.jpg

Any ideas?

65k rpm indicates config error, try the following... tuner studio doesn't always show errors like it should...

"If you are seeing 65535 rpm, but no message, go to Communications and Mini Terminal. Then turn your Megasquirt off then back on again. You will see a message displayed telling you why the code found a problem with your settings."

http://msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=101&t=31532

Also, in your screen shots the 'Config error' indicator is lit up.

comes up with "d a 43 6f 6e 66 6c 69 63 74 20 77 69 74 68 20 54 61 63 68 6f 20 4f 75 74 70 75 74"

What does that mean?

hmm... is the baud rate right in the terminal? I've never actually tried doing it that way, I've always managed to save/exit restart tuner studio maybe plug the serial cable in while tuner studio is running and get it to actually spit out the error... if that doesn't get it you might do is just go through all the settings and see if anything is using the same pin, in my experience thats always what the problem is. (i.e. check generic outputs aren't trying to use the same pin as a spark output or something like that)

Ok well it seems to crash tunerstudio when I do that, after logging off and logging back in, restarting tunerstudio and then powercycling the ms on the main screen it comes up with
"conflict with tacho output"

EDIT:
Checked tach output and my settings are

tacho output enabled: on
output on: IGN (js10)
Speed: normal

js10 is normally the cam input signal on ms2 and ms3 when using the v3.0 board... what does the diypnp manual say about tach output?

are you sure you set tuner studio to microsquirt module? (under project preferences)

I think I just selected the other box and loaded the ini

I can't find anything about the tach output pin

err.. maybe i'm thinking of the wrong thing, where can I check that?

btw my buad is 115200

well I turned off the tach output and then turned it back on and now the tach is 0 and tps is working. Idk, crazy i'll hook up my coils and try to crank it i suppose?

You also have to make sure you load the microsquirt firmware and not the regular ms2 firmware.

argh, i power cycled it and its back to like it was. I'll check what firmware i loaded, I just loaded the 3.1 you posted a link to, didn't realize there were different ones. DOH!

EDIT: omg i'm an idot... loading correct firmware now...

I think that with the right firmware and project settings it oughta show up as 'tach out' and not js10, but I can't get tunerstudio to start for some reason to double check that.

BTW: http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_arti...dio_how_to.htm

Thanks I think that did it but now my battery's dead lol, gotta head to the gym, i'll charge it while i'm there and probably try it tomorrow when i'm not freezing my balls off lol.

Word, that happens :)

whatever firmware you flashed it with is NOT correct.

Ya I when loading the firmware I was following diy's instuctions and not really paying attention, ended up pressing "1" instead of "2" for microsquirt. Got it fixed now.

Ok now more issues, if I flash the firmware and load the msq it's fine but if I powercycle the ms it goes back to having the conflict with tacho output error. How do I check to see what my outputs are to find the conflict? If I go to output port settings output or js10 isn't even in there.

Update: Ok so I got it to be like it's supposed to and started her up, turned over first time! Ran like shit and wouldn't idle but it started lol. Afrs stayed at a constant 16.9 then I remembered I hadn't calibrated the o2 sensor. I think it was dumping fuel in causing it to run horrible.

Ok so I took a datalog of running about 10 seconds, I don't really know what i'm looking at though. Also my afrs are still jacked after calibrating it, maybe the lc1 isn't setup to talk to the ms? I have the cable but don't have the plug, can I still configure it?

Did you hook up an output from the lc1 to megasquirt? doesn't look like the value changed at all. Also, Idk if you'll be able to program the lc1 or not (without the plug, maybe google knows)... you might try using the other output from the lc1. You did pull the o2 sensor out of the exhaust before you calibrated it right? :)

All you have to do to get the LC1 to talk is make sure its wired up, then do the sensor calibration so that its converting the values correctly then make sure your project settings are correct. If it still doesn't show the right thing you may have to turn on EGO correction (I don't think you should have to do that with ms2, but I know that on ms3 you have to turn it on for to read the EGO at all... you can mess with the settings so that it can't actually do much if anything while you're tuning)

Yup it's wired onto the o2 wire that I jumped the adapter board to. and I took it out to do the calibration (and remembered to put the heat sync back on this time lol) I can try the other output cable I guess. I'll double check my msq settings too.

did you unplug the stock o2 if that's sharing the same signal wire?

Yes wideband is in the original o2's spot and original o2 is out of the car.

and you're using LC1 Default, not 0-5v 10-20?

Yes is that bad? I didn't know which one so I just chose default.

Ok programmed the lc1 today. It was set up to simulate a narrowband (wish I'd known, could have been running it with my stock ecu lol)

I havnt had a chance to reconnect the megasquirt for testing yet but I did drive around doing some data logging through the lc1. That brought up some questions. My idle seems to be about 17. Cruising (on throttle but maintaining speed) is about 15-15.5. When im hard on the throttle it's pretty solid at 13 which seems right. I've never datalogged before, does this seem right? Oh and of I let off the throttle my afrs go off the gauge.

idle should be closer to 14. the rest sounds okay.

tune your AFR targets table, register TS, and then start autotuning.

Ok. That's with the stock ecu though. Havnt gotten a chance to hook up the megasquirt. I have today off but it's snowing and balls cold :( I was just wanting to make sure that sounded like my sensor was calibrated correctly. I took it out and calibrated it last week so it should be good to go.

How user friendly is the auto tune stuff? Is it pretty worth the money?

Edit: also I've been looking for a good target afr table or a write up on how to make one but no luck so far.

Its pretty much worth the money, its not necessarily that much better than the 'old way' (using megalog viewer to scan a log file) But its faster and brain dead easy. I have a license if you want to try it before you buy, if you really wanted to be cheap we could get a good enough tune using mine and you can use mega log viewer later to tweak it... It gets everything pretty damn good in an hour of driving around really... but at the same time its good software and its worth supporting Phil, imo.

Buy it. It's worth every penny and stupidly easy to use.

Buy it because Phil Tobin is a great guy and actually made a great piece of software.

Cool. Thanks Ian but I'll probably just buy it.

Ok so its been a while but a quick update and then a question. My diypnp is up and running, I registered TS and I've tuned a couple of the idle/no load cells with no problem but since I don't have alternator control I can't really go far. Which brings me to my question. For alternator control I am using (attempting to anyways) abes alternator control here.

I'm running into problems though because its all set up and still doesn't work. With the stock ecu in and the box disconnected the charging system/battery is fine so I know its the controller. I doubt I got a bad controller, just bought it from oreillys so I'm thinking its gotta be how I have it hooked up. For the setup I needed to be able to swap back and forth between my stock ecu and diypnp.

How I have it setup:
Ground: Mounted it on the shelf behind the headlight. When it first didn't work I figured I didn't have a good ground so I sanded the paint next to the box down a little and soldered the case to the shelf. Also soldered a wire to the box and the other end I attached to the intake manifold just for aditional peace of mind. After it still didn't work (don't know why I didn't do it before) I tested the box with voltmeter and it is solidly grounded.
Green Wire: Because I needed to be able to switch between ecus I spliced into the grey/red signal wire but shouldn't be fine because when the megasquirt is hooked up theres nothing connected to the other end of the wire. Right?
Blue Wire: Heres were I think I screwed up, I used an 'add a fuse' to get my switched 12v out of the fuse box. Well turns out after playing around with the voltmeter that its not actually switched. Its constantly putting out 12v with the key off. I don't see how that matters but its the only thing I could find that wasn't exactly like the write up. Do I need to change to a switched 12v? If so wheres a good place to get one under the hood?

Well now that I think about maybe the signal wire is were I screwed up, do I need to cut the signal wire and run directly to the green wire? I can just put a little quick disconnect on both wires and switch when I need to. I don't know, anybody have any ideas?

Also, if I can't get this figured out, would I be able to swap in a 90-93 alternator if I swap the pulley off of my 2000 alt?

Its possible if the connectors and the pulley lines up once mounted.