Haunted base timing! Many experts stumped. Please help!
4 Attachment(s)
EDIT SOLUTION AND LESSON LEARNED!!!
First the lesson, if you have double checked things, triple check them, if you have triple checked, quadruple check, then quintuple check, keep going until you have success. Check all of the basics every time you make a change. So we don't understand exactly how, but the trigger wheel is backwards. I will flip it tomorrow to confirm but it is backwards on the car now. Tracing steps backwards we can deduce that 2 of us separately put it on backwards when we thought we had it right, we knew and both understood the proper orientation. One of the first things I tried was flipping the wheel. The biggest thing we don't understand is why we did not find it when we flipped it. The only logical conclusion we can think of is during some of the tests something else may have been wrong and we did not identify the wheel as being correctly oriented. During the final install I broke a bolt off into the center piece the pulley attaches too. I must have gotten it flipped around when I corrected the problem by replacing the center piece with a spare. Old man eyes may be a contributing factor during that final install. I want to thank each and every person both here and on Facebook that helped out. If I told you that you were wrong about the wheel being backwards, well I was totally wrong, and I eat my words. Log off feeling proud, you deserve it. Mostly, thank you to the guy that urged me to look one more time, just in case. You know who you are. I'm just glad I can move on with the build now. Original Post: Alright, I'm at the end of what I know to do here. I've asked a lot of people. I've been to the MS Miata tuning group on facebook and stumped everyone there, they pointed me here. I have a base timing issue, We have explored every last one of the common causes. This is the 5th motor that has been in this car. I will list some of the things we've tried below. My car is a 2000 running ms3. My built motor is being worked on so as a backup I just swapped in a motor from another car (totally stock, ran perfect) after doing oil pump, water pump, seals etc... put a gates blue belt on it. I cannot for the life of me get this motor to set base timing correctly. With the offset to 20 (the max) the timing marks are at the top of the pulley. About 30-40 degrees. With the offset at 10 it runs like crap. With the offset 0 it won't run. I believe the timing is being reported correctly, the motor sounds like it is running very advanced. As you increase the offset it runs like crap until it dies. I do not believe it is the timing belt position. We've had a ton of people look at it. The timing variance is something like 50-60 degrees (30-40 that is reads + the 20 offset). A tooth, a few teeth even on the crank will not account for it being off that far. The cams are fine, they are not different, they are stock undamaged and both have the positioning pin. I'm going to try to include some pictures and a video and some pictures. The video makes the marks look less stable than they are. The video does not capture it well with the timing light. It is clear and stable when looking at it in person. I've checked every common item, here are some listed below:
What have I done wrong? (don't mind the supercharger belt trying to come off, I am aware) https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...269cc39e7a.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...280ff8fe44.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e3708dd5a.jpeg |
Can you post a screenshot of your ignition settings? Also I assume both the trigger wheels you used were stock type?
I know you probably checked this, but were the cam gears installed with the correct dowel pin position? The more I check through your list this seems like the only unaddressed mechanical thing I can think of. And considering the tune was working on another engine I would start with either mechanical or sensor issues. |
Have confirmed that the balancer timing mark is in the correct position? If you are using a fm trigger I believe they can be installed backwards or flipped.
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Originally Posted by LeoNA
(Post 1621777)
Have confirmed that the balancer timing mark is in the correct position? If you are using a fm trigger I believe they can be installed backwards or flipped.
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I should have read the fine print better, ha. This is a head scratcher.
Originally Posted by soot
(Post 1621788)
That was addressed in his post
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Here are some additional shots showing ignition settings as asked. Plus additional shots of the motor aligned at TDC measured with my measuring rod with a rubber tip.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c0d8cd4c01.png https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8a2209b55a.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ce8d337054.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f0edd4d1e6.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5baaa33802.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...353d6b221d.jpg |
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Wait wait, so the bump "bulge" on the wheel is going towards the radiator (picture 2 in link), or the center section is going towards the radiator (picture 1)?
Shoult pics on miata.net The expected trigger angles in the 99 decoder just look too coincidental with where the timing dots are in the video https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1a12910d50.jpg |
Deleted
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I don't think it is anything in the ignition settings. As I mentioned in the original post this tune worked in my built motor like a week ago.
The only changes were to work on a stock motor instead of my built motor, so: cc's on the fuel settings, rev limit back down to 7200, lowering the VE around idle to not be so ultra rich that it won't run. The built motor is bored out, revs to 8200 and moves a lot more air than this stock one does, so the stock one requires less fuel. |
I would load a base map from DIY Auto Tune to rule out the programming. If you have a stock ECU, try that also.
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My only thought is an exhaust/intake cam swap on the donor motor and you're not using the right cam wheel (very unlikely) or you swapped spark plug wires or coil plugs.
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Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1621813)
My only thought is an exhaust/intake cam swap on the donor motor and you're not using the right cam wheel (very unlikely) or you swapped spark plug wires or coil plugs.
The cams have not been swapped, they don't look like they've ever been out of the car. It doesn't look like anyone has been in here before. Do you really think that after putting in five motors in this car that it could possibly be a coil wire swapped? Really? |
Originally Posted by Jamikins
(Post 1621798)
I would load a base map from DIY Auto Tune to rule out the programming. If you have a stock ECU, try that also.
I'm going to try a different ECU today. |
Some fun updates from today. I tried a 3rd crank sensor, I tried my old ms2 I had sold, the buyer had not installed it yet and let me borrow it. With the other ecu it is behaving the same.
Another miata friend of my came buy, confirmed all the mechanicals looked good. He had an idea to set the fixed advanced lower. We discovered the way it is running it will not idle low. So the 1600-1900 it was idling at was deceiving on how well it ran. We set the fixed advance to -10, with the offset at 20, and the timing marks were close to the correct position. With it like that the engine was MUCH happier and would idle at 800 RPM. So, our conclusions today are, mechanically everything is together correctly, and secondly the timing that is shown appears to be accurate on where the timing is at. |
Did you see my post above?
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See edit in the OP for solution.
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I guess this even more common with the aftermarket trigger wheels that don't have the bubble center. Have heard of many that have had this issue with the FM units. Good wheels, just easy to install backwards.
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