help, my MS doesnt work!
 

i built a v3.0 board as per the stickey. downloaded the MSPNP software and easytherm. used eastherm and edited the CLT for the rx7 and ait for the GM ait. loaded the new s19 file to MS. the first time i did it i forgot to unplug the "power TR unit" so i might have burned that up, but i did unplug the coilpack. turn the key to on to turn on megasquirt. the outer 2 LEDs are on, center on is not. the fuel pump is kicking on and off. open meagtune and open my msq and load it to ms, but when i open megatune i get this:
http://img236.imageshack.us/img236/3091/72368518ej8.png

hit no, go to open, open my msq and load it to MS. still displays this in megatune.http://img236.imageshack.us/img236/6793/96328755pp7.png
i am just useing the MSPNP msq for no afm with just the req fuel changed for my 330s and changed my 02 to AEM UEGO in the configuator. i will try and change a setting, but when i hit "burn to ecu" the laptop just beeps and it doesnt send. i go to "communications" test ecu using COM4 and it says success.
http://img47.imageshack.us/img47/3217/66914035ji5.png
and of course, the car doesnt start. any ideas on where to go from here? i have built 2 v2.2 boards before and they both worked fine. so i know its built right. i havent cleaned the board with alchol yet, but i will.

reflash it. use the directions i posted.

but the coolant temp has me worried.

Were you testing the board as you were building, with a stim?

nope.


but i reflashed the ecu again with the s19 that comes with MSPNP and its doing more crap, the outer 2 leds are still on, only dimmer. and its like the MS will connect, then not connect. i will try and load my msq, sometimes it will work, sometimes it will come up with a few could not connect warning and the guages will stop reading. and now the guages are reading completly different.
first open:
http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/5210/68956861jf6.png


hit no:
http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/4707/56065262rf2.png

notice the crazy heading on the second one. also outside temp here is about 50-55ish right now. but i did notice something. i have the top cover of the MS off right down, one time when it went off, i pushed down on the main chip in the socket thinking it could be lose and it came back on.

here is a pic of my board if it helps any. and i jumped everything labeled in the stickey.

http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/4061/img0541ib3.jpg

http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/8482/img0544em3.jpg

This sort of sounds like a power supply issue to me.

Have you checked to see that pins 1 and 20 of the CPU are getting a good, ripple-free 5 VDC?

my multimeter is broke, but i will go and get another one and check it out. :bigtu: anything else i should check for power or resistence?

Well, since you're having comm troubles as well I'd look at pin 16 of U6 (the RS232 transceiver) but for the most part I'd think that any power supply trouble will show itself at U1.

alright, so ALL of the pins on the DB37 side of the cpu (U1) should have 5 volts when powered up? i got a new multi-meter and will check those tomorow. would this cause the MAP reading to be so far off too? thats what really has me worried

don't use the mspnp files and use a fresh copy of 029v, all the links you need are in my writeup. it needs to be flashed again

i have used the regualar extra file and the MSPNP file. both do the same thing. took my multi-meter and a flashlight and got the CPU numbers. its shown how it sits in the car

EDIT: here is a screen shot, the post moved the numbers around
http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/2653/25650896bj8.png
and pin 20 is 5.19 volts, not 51 volts

ok guys, i think i have a new plan. un-install everything again. just get a GM clt sensor and install it to make 1 less thing to worry about. load up the newest meagtune and extra, and re-flash the extra s19, again. does anyone have a MSQ they can give me for a 90-93. there has to be a setting or something off somewhere. i will take the board out and inspect it really closely and clean it with alchol. i need to look through my haynes and see if i can test my ignitor to see if its good or if i burned it up also.

its cold in florida

you can't without a special scope tool from mazda.


the garbage you got from the last burn says its not a good flash. make sure all your you db37 connector is soldered in secure. your build itself looks spot on.

download a clean copy of 029v, sometimes after i mod the original file it becomes junk and I cant use it again and the file will only burn about 300 rows total.

you can use the 9093PNP msq as a base. you just need to change a few things around, but as is, that file should start you right up. just wait untill you can open MT and read the MS without errors.

You get that error if Megatune hasn't been set correctly in it's configurator.

Has MegaTune been correctly setup?

Do you have access to an oscilloscope? If so, you can test it with a resistor and a current shunt.

yeah, i used the confiurator.

and i have noticed that the is not AFR ini, did they quit doing that? becuase i know that was one of the things you had to have to read a wideband corectly. and does anyone know the swtichpoint on a AEM uego? i want to say 2.35, but i am probally wrong.

also does any other cars use our same ignitor? because i need to go to the junkyard and pick up a CLT pigtail anyway. might as well grab 1 or 2 ignitors too.

The AFR ini that you refer to might be the lambdasensor.ini file.
For the AEM UEGO 14.68 is 2.34 so using something around 2.35-2.36 should be accurate.
I think some mitsubishi's use the same ignitor.
I don't see why you think you need a GM clt sensor. Everyone else is using the stock sensor? I also don't think the GM sensor will thread into the stock CLT sensor bung.. Not sure about that though. You could put a "T" together in one of your heater lines to install the GM sensor though. That would be pretty easy.

Also to make it so that Megatune reads the same as your AEM uego sensor at the gauge you can use this how-to:
http://forums.plastikracing.net/view...?p=52097#52097

thanks, i will use the GM clt just so there is less chance of something else messing up, and i was planing on using a tee anyway.

and thanks a ton for the help guys, i soldered in r7 today and looked over the board and didn't see anything off. also went over it with some 90% alcohol and a toothbrush. i will try and get to the junkyard tomorow and grab an ignitor and a pigtail and go from there