DMRider_10

I hate this car so much right now.

Ok I was finally happy with my MS, I had the harness chocolate/junction blocked to the stock wiring and it was all working ok. So I disconnected it all, and started soldering the wires together and heat shinking them. Finished up, bolted the MS case down (on top of the carpet, bolts go through carpet and into foot panel thing). Tried to start the car, nothing.

Checked my wiring, due to the way Ive extended the sheilding for the grey wire (cas shield), I has soldered the cas signal white wire to ground, and the shielding to the stock white 2E wire, ie the wrong way round.

So I recified that and got it it started. Went out for a drive and was feeling sluggish and wouldnt rev past 3k, you could floor it while in neutral and it would sound like launch control/overboost protection. Also it would kangarro and jerk round at anything other that slight throttle.

Went home, turned car off, went to get laptop form inside. Come back and car wont start. Not getting any MAT or CLT reading? Both are stuck at -40c. Flashed firmware etc etc nothing. Thought **** it and left it until this morning.

Reflashed firmware, uploaded map etc. Got the car started with laptop connected. Again no CLT/MAT so I assume it wouldnt restart when warm the otherday due to no correction?

Anyways as there was no CLT reading, it was stuck on warmup enrich, so I put 100% in the -40c box to temporarily sort that.

Saw the car was a little low on fuel, and that getting some would rule that out so drove 1 mile to the nearest station. Car felt ok except in boost it was bogging terribly. I glanced at AFRs on the laptop and from what I saw it was majorly rich, like AFR of 10 in boost.

Got to the petrol station, stopped, filled up, car wont restart :(

The car is now stuck there as no matter what I do I cant get the pissing thing to start.

One strange thing was, while I was messing with it, reflashing etc, I managed to corrupt the code so that map was readin 189kpa etc, which Ive had before, but while it was like that , CLT and MAT were working!!!! Giving proper readings?!?!?! WTF!!!!!

That makes me thing its not a wiring or faulty sensor issue or anything.

Can anyone make sense of all that?

Thanks

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

you need to manipulate your cranking tables....its probably flooded at this point.

DMRider_10

I apologise, but that means nothing to me :(

I just went back to the car now, and now that its cold, starts first go. Idles, but is running very rough. At least ive got it back home in my driveway now

DMRider_10

Would the incorrect wiring of the CAS have fucked anything?

miatamike203

I don't know too much on the MS but I have a few good things to check. Check your grounds in the engine bay, I had one that was not so good and the car ran good with the stock ecu with out the AEM FIC hooked up, but once I hooked my AEM FIC it ran rough and stumbled all over its self unlit I fixed the ground. Also just to be safe check your wires, and if that's good try starting from step one with a fresh new map and new firmware.

miatamike203

Braineack would be the best person to answer that. He seams to be the one to go to for a nicely built MS and some good MS help.

Matt Cramer

Usually nothing that rewiring it correctly won't fix. How do your sensor readings look now?

DMRider_10

Ive been out and removed my MS case to make sure none of the mods are touching the board etc. Un-zip tied the harness and made sure non of the wires were shorting. The yellow to Blue/white CLT connection was fine and a good soldered joint.

Still no clt/mat readings in MT

I cant hear the fuel pump whirring? When I turn the ignition to ON I hear a click like a relay behind me, but no actual whirring? Could this just be down to the low fuel level? The purple to purple FP wire is also a good connection on the harness (yes Ive removed the fuse in the engine bay)

If ive reinstalled teh MS PNP software (which I have) and reflashed firmware using that, I shouldnt need to touch easytherm or anything should I???

DMRider_10

Hooked my stim up and reflashed indoors on the PC. The MAT and CLT work fine on the stim, so its obviously something external. Grrrrrrrrr

miatamike203

Well I guess you can say that's a step forward now that you know its not your ms but some thing on the car.

DMRider_10

Ive checked and re-checked my harness several times now, everything seems to be in order.

Ive flashed and reflashed a dozen times to no avail. Still no CLT or MAT readings.

richyvrlimited

iTrader: (1)

If it's working fine on the stim, then it's not MS related as said above. re-flashing will do **** all

It's in your wiring somewhere! It may not be at the harness end, check for continuity between the harness and the sensor.

DMRider_10

What sort of voltage should the MS be getting down the yellow/orange CLT/MAT wires?

With the car sat at with the ignition on, I get 4.96v from both? Which im guessing is incorrect?

DMRider_10

I know everyone said it wasnt my MS, but..............you were right lol. I didnt think it was either, but had to confirm it so used my mates MS with identical firmware/map. Still no CLT or MAT. This was using my harness though.

I ran a wire from where my harness joins the stock wiring (joint between the orange MAT wire and the red/green stock wire), outside the car to the green/red wire at the AFM plug, to rule out breaks in the red/green wire where it goes through the dash etc. Nothing. Still no reading. Id of done the same with the CLT but its a bitch to get to.

Ive also realised that my dash tacho isnt working? Its fed from the ECU on 1990 cars aint it? This may be related or it could be from me removing my knocklite, whcih I did at the same time as hardwiring the ms and which is fed from the tacho signal.

My current suspicion lies with the DB37 connector at the end of the MS harness. Im going to solder a wire straight off the board pin to where my harness meets the stock wiring (orange-red/green joint), to bypass the DB37. Watch this space

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

it would almost do you good to send the MS and harness to someone that could probably get it working right away...

TrickerZ

iTrader: (6)

Your tach not working is probably cuz you flashed your firmware with the igniter still connected. You need a new igniter. There should be a resistance through the temp sensors. As temperature rises, the resistance decreases.

210*F = 185 ohm
70*F = 3,400 ohm
-40*F = 100,700 ohm

DMRider_10

^ no, i didnt

Thanks for the info on the temp sensors

TrickerZ

iTrader: (6)

If your dash tach doesn't work, but MT does, then it's your igniter or you hosed up the wiring from your igniter somehow. If neither work, then it's probably CAS or connection to CAS.

DMRider_10

Like I said, my knocklite used the tach signal from the dash, since uninstalling it I dont think the tacho has worked, not too sure cos Ive been focussing on this CLT/MAT problem, so im hoping its that. Either way, thats not my main problem at the mo.

To measure those resistance readings you gave me, for say, the MAT sensor in the afm, would I just put the multimeter accross the red/green signal wire at the afm plug, and ground?

Thats not very fair, im not a total idiot!

Ive rewired the harness now using chocolate blocks again. Ive also bypassed the DB37 for the MAT wire (gone straight from the pin on the board to the stock red/green wire).

Still nothing.

Is there something Im fundamentally forgetting to do with easytherm or the configurator etc to calibrate it to the miata clt/mat sensors?

curly

iTrader: (25)

Your initial issue with the car not starting till you left it for a few hours is fouled plugs. You said you were running super rich, so they'll need to essentially drain and dry before they'll fire. Hence braineacks's flooded comment. I don't see how this could be related to a tach issue, but replace them. Also, have you checked your battery voltage?