trey.

INSTALL YOUR GODDAM EGT IF YOU CARE ABOUT EGT

but take my word for it, I can cruise all day long at 80mph (4k) at 15.5 AFRs and 40 degrees BTDC and my EGTs are something like 1250.

You know what raises EGT? fire on the manifold side of the valves. you know what prevents fire in the exhaust? speeding up the burn (richening) or starting it earlier (more advance).

pick which one works best for best economy.

Hint: it's the one that doesn't use more fuel.

hint2: you may be mechanically limited to a less than optimum MPG and that's the life of a pimp in a green race car.

this is perhaps the stupidest thread ive seen in past few months. SPRAY LESS FUEL!

I'd be embarrassed if my car got over 20 mpg. :giggle:

Funny, someone smart might accuse you of being able to properly tune a car if you got over 20mpg. Good thing no one will accuse you of such a thing.

i loled

I could tune the entire map to 20:1 below 100kpa, but it's not really going to help, I try my best not to use that part of the map. I built the car to be driven. If I decide to drive it like a bitch, I'll let you know and we can have a "Who can get the highest MPG competition." My dyno numbers are in my sig, what kinda power are you making?

i loled again. this is going to be funny!

I averaged 28 mpgs when I went to the gap in July.
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Wait, is he making huge power or something? haha. My point was supposed to be "I didn't build my car to go out and try to break any MPG records." MPG is the least of my concerns. I get right at 18mpg on any tank I've put through the car, it's all pretty tough on the right pedal.

I made more power and torque than that on my old cast manifold set-up, on a dyno dynamics. Eat my shit. You have aids.

I never meant to imply that I was god's gift to tuning, just tried to imply that anyone that gives a shit about MPG on a "racecar" may be a little more interested in the male gender than I'm comfortable with. ;)

How is his tune improper?

Lacking an egr, be aware that water will also displace combustion supporting oxygen in the chamber, allowing you to cut back fuel, and also controlling combustion temps. Now if you only had a way to add the water...

Don't you think it's a little ... uhm ... impractical to spray water in cruise?

I didn't weigh the action against the results, but I do know a "little" water can go a long way. Water is cheap, and it does not have to be a meth mix in this case, it also would not need the volume used to control detonation as we know it for boost applications. Just thinking outside the box here. Water injection is not exactly a new idea, it was used many years ago to increase mileage, and fix the problems of crappy fuels. Farmers used to use it in tractors, there were factory built systems that got the water supply from the cooling system. (John Deere AR iirc) There was a factory install unit in a car years ago, the make model escapes me at this time.

The cost to upgrade a boost water setup to work for cruise as well would be minimal, a separate solenoid and smaller nozzle, and a way to manage it. There are other ways I can think of as well. Straight water cruising on a holliday, then dump it and add water/meth mix at the track, or for a Saturday night romp isn't a big pain imo, some people change pads when they get to the track.

Im getting reliably single digits on track. Few sessions eats through the majority of a fuel tank.

I'm getting 28-30 on highway.

Pdexta.... 18 is a joke. If you are beating on your car that much on the street.... you should have your license taken away. And if thats your on track gas mileage... you drive like a girl.

Come back to earth.

And here I thought you never looked inside the box either

more efficiency for that specific (max) output...

That specific output is more than you need to cruise.



Have you actually READ any of the above posts in this thread?

Now that I'm at home and can actually see your AFR targets I'm fucking laughing. Why do people insist on being pig rich?

There is no reason to run less than spark angle MBT...if you don't, its leaving output on the table. We're withing a safe AFR here to go with either advance or retard, and neither direction is driven by AFR. If you don't advance spark, you're not making the most of the fuel in the chamber, and reducing output, or wasting the fuel in terms of both efficiency and output.

The reason I run so rich in load is because with spark held constant, it kept producing more torque until roughly 11.2:1. I put the car on the dyno, and let the measurement device tell me what to do. Its a wild concept.

For cruise AFR tuning, everyone in this thread ignores that Mazda gets 30mpg from 14.7:1. Running 17:1 may be ok, but I'll never know because I have too much money in this to find out.