An idea to fix the shit boost control...
Ok, with the GM boost control solenoid, voltage=closed, no voltage=open, correct? So what if we simply set the duty cycle to full boost in cold conditions, then when it gets warm out, we use a variable resistor to de-amplify the MS output, thus allowing for more boost. This means we could have an infinite amount of boost controller maps for any temp.
I know its a pulse width output, and a resistor wont actually change the duty cycle (right?), but I figured maybe changing the amplitude of the pulse will make the solenoid react slower/weaker, allowing for more boost? Then again will this effect when you have the solenoid closed (100% duty)? Or will it not work at all? I would love to have some way to make the MS boost control better lol. EDIT----- Is there such thing as a variable low pass filter (make the circut maybe, a filter like this is made up of a resistor and capaciator in series right? What if the resistor was adjustable?)? I know amplifiers can vary the freq. it filters out... that would directly be able to change the pulse the boost solenoid sees... but I don't know how to implement something like that... Im just throwing out ideas... |
It's more complicated than that. The best/simplest thing you could do, IMO, would be to have an extra solenoid that swtiches between to different MBC's (or EBC's) so that you can switch to a cold and hot setting. IE-set one MBC for 12 PSI when it's 80*F out and set the other MBC for 12 PSI at 40*F and use a solenoid to switch between them. Not ideal though.
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Originally Posted by patsmx5
(Post 358122)
It's more complicated than that. The best/simplest thing you could do, IMO, would be to have an extra solenoid that swtiches between to different MBC's (or EBC's) so that you can switch to a cold and hot setting. IE-set one MBC for 12 PSI when it's 80*F out and set the other MBC for 12 PSI at 40*F and use a solenoid to switch between them. Not ideal though.
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Just wait..... Keith is working on a PID control for Idle, once done he's going to copy it over to boost control problem solved.
OR you could get a superior way of applying Forced Induction, i.e. a Supercharger ;) |
A real simple solution would be to just get rid of the GM solenoid and get a much better solenoid.
The GM solenoid does a shitty job at holding solid boost. |
Originally Posted by spike
(Post 358262)
A real simple solution would be to just get rid of the GM solenoid and get a much better solenoid.
The GM solenoid does a shitty job at holding solid boost. |
Originally Posted by spike
(Post 358262)
A real simple solution would be to just get rid of the GM solenoid and get a much better solenoid.
The GM solenoid does a shitty job at holding solid boost. |
Originally Posted by richyvrlimited
(Post 358273)
A solenoid is only as good as what's controlling it. MegaSquirt's issue is the code is rubbish, not the solenoid...
Last summer,I went with a friend to have his Megasquirt tuned,I removed his GM solenoid,installed the Mac Valve,the tuner set the frequency for the new valve,made a dyno run and the new valve gave a smoother,more rock solid boost ramp,boost also came on earlier.His tuning map was not changed at all except for setting the frequency for the new solenoid. Having quality parts do make a difference. |
Originally Posted by spike
(Post 358275)
I don't know about that,but I could be wrong.
Last summer,I went with a friend to have his Megasquirt tuned,I removed his GM solenoid,installed the Mac Valve,the tuner set the frequency for the new valve,made a dyno run and the new valve gave a smoother,more rock solid boost ramp,boost also came on earlier.His tuning map was not changed at all except for setting the frequency for the new solenoid. Having quality parts do make a difference. |
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