dont touch the idle screw. if it was good before in the same position, changing it now will only mask the apparently bad job of tuning you did.
I was outside with my laptop everyday for weeks to fine tune my idle. You need to become one with your idle valve. |
Originally Posted by 90 Turbo
(Post 829109)
Here is msq I tired to get my spark/afr/ve to be the same thru the 700 to 1500 rpm range
Make those numbers identical, and see if it helps. |
Thanks Joe and Brain.
The problem with leaving the bleeder where it is, is I dont know if it is in the right place at all. I messed with it following that guys instructions to get all the ve , afr and spark tables the same in the idle rpm band. The issue with that I think is the valve frooze where it was when I pulled the wire and once I replaced the wire the idle dropped and it died. I have it entering cl idle now but I had to adjust the bleed screw to get it to. I am wondering if I can pull the wire while its not in cl and retry those instructions with better luck. Joe I think the ve table changed because auto tune it adjusting them. I was hoping to get some more auto tune in down around 1500 rpm before I stopped letting it change things down there. I had to reload firmware and tune yesterday and wanted the autotune to have time to treek the above 40kpa part of the table under 1500. If that makes any sense. I will work on it some more today and report back thanks again for the help. |
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